Category: Volvo S40, V40 Forum

Hi! Would you like to buy an “old” Volvo V40 2.0 100kw. Problem with the thing is that the car has already a good 225tkm down. From the outside it looks quite fine. I planned to try the car on the weekend. What should I pay special attention to, not to buy a “thinking moose”? – What are the changing intervals for the timing belt? – familiar problems with the model series/engine? – Is the engine already “finished” with 225000km? Thank you for your help!

Hello people. I’m sorry that I opened up a new topic again. I just didn’t find the right answer in the existing one. my colleague has a V40 T4 year 2001 with original subwoofer back right. I think he’s passive. my colleague doesn’t know electrics so well, I have a golf 3 myself, but know me well with electrics (professional electronics). we want to install a blue-point active subwoofer in the suitcase room. now the question: where can I pick up the sound signal for the subwoofer? simply with the original in the side wall? where do I get the remote signal for the subwoofer? current cable is clear to me, from battery in the interior to the rear. the original radio (volvo radio with cd and cassette) we want to keep on every case. as I said, I come from the VW Golf 3 world and therefore don’t know me so much. I hope that someone can explain it friendlyly.

Hello dear Volvo-Freaks I am looking for a reliable, economical combination, which nevertheless brings a certain degree of comfort, as I mostly drive long distances (about 40km to work) and I came across the following offer:http://suchen.mobile.de/fahrzeug/showDetails.html?id=163653073 What do you say about this? Is the price realistic? Does the timing belt count for the 90,000 inspection? Does anything else affect you (positive/negative)? The machine should be great after what I read! Thanks for your help!

Hello, after I’ve been looking for the cause of the extremely high consumption, I wanted to turn to the forum for a good answer to the question “Grüße”: “Grüße”: “Grüße”: “Grüße”: “Grüße”: “Grüße”: “Grüße”: “Grüße”: “Grüße”: “Grüße”: “Grüße”: “Grüße”: “Grüße”: “Grüße”: “Grüße”: “Grüße”: “Grüße”: “Grüße”: “Grüße”: “Grüße”: “Grüße”: “Grüße”: “Grüße”: “Grüße”: “Grüße”: “Grüße”: “Grüße”: “Grüße”: “Grüße”: “Grüße”: “Grüße”: “Grüße”: “Grüße”: “Grüße”: “Grüße”: “Grüße”: “Grüße”: “Grüße”: “Grüße”: “Grüße”: “Grüße”: “Grüße”: “Grüße”: “Grüße”: “Grüße”: “Güße”: “Grüße”: “Grüße”: “Grüße”: “Grüße”: “Grüße”: “Grüße”: “Grüße”: “Grüße”: “Grüße”: “Grüße”:”: “Grüße”:”:”: “Grüße”:”:”:”:”:”:”: “Grüße”:”: “Grüße”:”:”: “Grüße”:”:”: “Grüße”: “Grüße”:”:”:”:”:”:

My first T4 (3 years, 80TKM, God has blessed him) was satisfied with extremely light right foot on country roads with 11.0l. But of course I did not buy a T4 to test his minimal consumption. Then, Christmas 2001, I left him to my wife and with it his fate. Thanks to the airbags, which all did not trigger. That was cash money. Oh… please don’t misunderstand, I love my wife. Really! Nothing happened to her of course. But I wander away … The second T4 (3 years, 75TKM) is also 11l min. That means, when driving in a grown-up way 13l. Is that the normal value? Does Chiptuning help me? Or should I let my wife drive and then buy an Opel? I would be very grateful for your experience!

What do I have to say about the engine, and since I didn’t really trust the workshops, I wanted to hear your opinion about it. Otherwise the mechanic talks to me again the Vesper in the backpack because I have no idea. I try to be brief…. So, about 6 months ago I had an oil change and suddenly had an oil stain in the garage. However, what I did not have in the whole 8 years in which I have the V40 yet. So again in the workshop…. but they didn’t have a lot of time and thought the oil would come from above. I then reclaimed so n n liter of oil from Liqui Moly (thought also vll because of the new oil that it is still thinner and the seals with the years also slacken) and then was quiet. Now I had to find out that already had oil in the garage again last week. So n liter of oil vlled and again so oil stop inside. But still drips still…. And now my real question: When switching since a few months did not tell me about the gear change.

Hello, since I have to fight for a long time with high idle speeds (never under 1000 rpm) to very high (1600 and then sinks down to 1200), I have come up with a test to show if the engine pulls false air, the removal of the oil refill cap is with the running engine. I did that, but only briefly because I was injected with oil (is that normal?) and see, engine has run exactly immediately (on something over 1000 rpm). First I did it only with the oil meter and since nothing happened here, I tried it with the lid. Is that now a concrete indication that it pulls false air and if yes, where do I best start with the search? ^^ Thank you in advance PS: Yes, I already started a similar thread. However, I mainly talked about white smoke from the exhaust, which got done after a Kat change. For less confusion about this here a new thread:P

Hello together This is my rster post, but I’ve been reading along for years. Now I also have a problem. A month ago I bought a V40 combo with 1.8l and 122PS (Volvo engine). The seller said that there is a flaw – the dipped-beam only goes on the main-beam position, that means light switch at 1 o’clock and pull the selector lever direction driver. High-light does not work. No problem. Electrician thinks it all through and determined: CEM defective. Driven at once I notice that the left turn signal is completely off, no relay clicks, no display in the cockpit. Warning turn signal continues to go. back to the workshop, the electrician said that it can probably also be on the CEM. So I got one thing and installed myself. And zack it happens on the position 1 o’clock something goes on! The long-distance light! But just not the dim light. That goes on still when I pull the selector on the steering wheel. Unfortunately now together with the main-light. Blinker is also not going on. But I would have a bit of luck on the radio.

Moin moin, wanted to chisel to the coast over Whitsun, but it was not quite as loose then After about 150km the lamp started to flicker, then to flash in about 10 seconds distance to then permanently light up. Stopped and oil level controlled, but absolutely no loss recognizable. So I hoped that it was only the oil pressure switch and half the power went ahead. From the AB down, at traffic lights ran and the lamp goes off. Return the same game, light times on, sometimes off, sometimes on flickering. In my opinion, there were no abnormal noises. Now I have made up my mind here and think, oil pressure switch, oil sieve or oil pump as a source of error are most likely. Did oil fill up before the ride, rather than too little, can it be a problem? But as I said, if only minimally too much, the turbo is not open and there was no smoke cloud from the exhaust. My question: How do I go before the oil check?

Hello, on my S40 1.8 (85kw) petrol engine from 1996 I had to find the following problem after changing from one of the ignition coils: Sometimes the stationary gas just stays very high after uncoupling or when standing at a traffic light by itself. But this not only on cold engine, but also after a 50km drive on country roads. In addition, I have the feeling that the injection is very long the opinion that the engine is still ice cold. It comes very long, even after 20km driving, nor white smoke from the exhaust and what comes out of the exhaust, smells strongly of petrol, as if never a proper/complete combustion of the fuel is achieved. I only know that the cat is quite over, since before I have had the ignition rinse replaced again and again for a short time two cylinders have failed and the unburned fuel has unfortunately burned the cat mostly. However, neither oil nor cooling water is consumed. What could cause this increased empty run and is it normal that even after 20km of visible white smoke comes out of the exhaust?