Category: Volvo S40, V40 Forum

Hello you moose owners! I also plan to change the spark plugs in the V40 1.8 Bj: 03/2003. At the moment I am so far thinking that the spark plugs should have 3 or 4 electrodes. Now the engine has the identification number: B4184 S2 (16 valves with cat). Which spark plugs do it have to be? (I found under the search indicator nothing useful). There stands for Bj: 2000 at the V40 1.8 what. I have already checked in the engine room where the spark plugs are sitting above all. And when I noticed that no spark plugs are sitting on the candles. Because here in the forum there was often talk of it, before you change the candles, the spark plugs have to be removed. What makes me so stuzy at this point. I already drove a car (no Volvo) in 1998 that had an electronic ignition system. What are the spark plugs at all at the V40? The next question goes there: What is a V40 1.8 and V40 1.8i? What is the difference?

With me, the brake control light always lights up. If I step out of the brake, it’s the one. But that’s not what I’ve been saying for about 3 weeks.

After my moose didn’t want to blink or blink last week, I found the cause. The Japanese flasher relay (part MB953383) See picture…

Huhu dear community, I have the Volvo from my brother-in-law in Spe standing in the garage and it starts really bad, when it is cold, the battery almost collapses, when you then bring it to run with bridges, then it runs perfectly, it is warm, you turn it off, it jumps again wonderfully without quirks. I already changed the glow plugs, one was without function, 2 looked like shit, so, there was already a bit of something missing, apparently burned away. Fuel system I also ventilated at the distribution pump. What else could be? Cold running controller? Temperature sensor? Can someone be of any help to me, I would be very grateful.

He Volvofans, I have a little problem with my rear windscreen wiper! It works in all activities as I use the switches at the front. But it doesn’t wipe in the upper part of the rear window. I’ve already tried to buy a new one, but the usual rear wiper, which you get on the market like this, all do not fit. Because the wiper arm is fully disguised. Thus, the original rear windscreen wiper on the fastening axis for the arm has a much longer cut than the wiper, which you get from Bosch. Before I now find the friend at Volvo, I hope he speaks German, I wanted to know your good advice. I am already thinking about it very hard. A wiping rubber change can not fix it. That has what to do with the pressure on the disk. Either the mechanis of the wiper is defecatched or the pressure from the arm is too low. Only then I don’t get up because it’s fully covered. Nice greeting from Torsten from Slovakia in Tranava. Here it is cold again. Here it’s 20 sl.

What’s wrong with it? What’s wrong with it? What’s wrong with it? What’s wrong with it? What’s wrong with it? What’s wrong with it? What’s wrong with it? What’s wrong with it? What’s wrong with it? What’s wrong with it? What’s wrong with it? What’s wrong with it? What’s wrong with it? What’s wrong with it? What’s wrong with it? What’s wrong with it? What’s wrong with it? What’s wrong with it? What’s wrong with it? What’s wrong with it? What’s wrong with it? What’s wrong with it? What’s wrong with it? What’s wrong with it? What’s wrong with it?

Hello, I have problems with the pressure conditions in my fuel tank. When opening the tank cover, especially with full tank, I hear a long hissing/sucking, sometimes even bubbles rise and after long journeys at high speed a cracking/relaxing of the tank. Have once attached an image of the tank ventilation. How the system is ventilated is so half understandable to me, but how or what does the ventilation work, so that no vacuum arises?

Hy, looking for the fast a big cheap car, came then to the Volvo here.http://www.autoscout24.de/Details.aspx?id=liopcvgdzigi Although a lot on the clock does make a good impression, test drive has also been good, Schekheft is gapless. What do you think? I want to drive the car about 2 years. Or do you think this is a ruin? How is that with the Danish papers? How do I get the Germans? Have I completely forgotten to ask en dealer.. He wants to have 700€ for the car.

Hiho, was just with the friendly because of the problem standing in the subject. The mean, the bender has a crack and has to be changed. I could not see the crack. Now I do not know if I can believe the friendly one. Because in the forum here there are some entries, that maybe only the seal is defective or the screws/bolts,… should be replaced or simply tightened, then sparks again. By the way, at 180tkm. The fact is that after about 2 minutes the fluttering tractor noise is gone. Can this circumstance be at all, if the crack itself has a crack? Or should I have the bolts checked by another workshop before? thx for info. Greetings Playa

Hello dear Volvo driver Vor kuzem wrote me to Volvo and asked me for a free review. For me very practical since my V40 Bj 2001 Tüv&Asu needed. My 1.8 early delivered and received lunch call,it would be something to do!!! So in the evening Volvo picked up and,I still get eyes-twitching only if I think about it, there was told me the following things to do: brake caliper on both sides(That was my lying wheel on the right rear hard to get) All brake hoses cross-handlers on the back at the bottom both sides Tüv,Asu fees also cowers on both sides. Long talk; we sat down and reckoned, shoved the prices back and forth,me got dizzy, they wanted to come to meet me, and gave me water or coffee and 15% on the parts. So that makes 2000€ I thought about it short to burst but then I became clear to me that I lost my trust in my Volvo workshop due to this action. So brake calips & brake calipers,free Wekstatt and about to save now with a few Tü rides to Berlin.