Category: Volvo S40, V40 Forum

Hello Elchfriends!!! Don’t find the right topic where I can explain my problem!! My first contribution here…. has a V40 Bj. 01 100kw! on my yesterday’s ride I noticed strong smoke coming out of the engine compartment! I stopped immediately and looked, when the bonnet opened I hit flames, could immediately delete with snow and everything went well! In the troubleshooting we then found out the engine oil kicked out and ran on the cracker, and had ignited! It has itself lower sheet metal, which is at the rear aggas outlet of the cylinders (so the cracker of the two engine and cockpit is located), a kind of stopper, rubber seal (round) loosened and oil could then run on the cracker. I mean the sheet where a hose is attached, the preheated air transports to the air filter. can tell me someone like this stopper, seal or what this means for a thing and looks like? It is not a screw that can be screwed into the engine block, there is no help me in the threadjo!

But if there were any problems, there would have been no problem with my v40 t4 ph2 (166000km) and there was no problem with it, there was no problem with it. There was no problem with it, there was no problem with it. There was no problem with it, there was no problem with it, there was no problem with it, there was no problem with it, there was no problem with it, there was no problem with it, there was no problem with it, there was no problem with it, there was no problem with it, there was no problem with it, there was no problem with it, there was no problem with it, there was no problem with it, there was no problem with it, there was no problem with it, there was no problem with it, there was no problem with it, there was no problem with it, there was no problem with it, there was no problem with it.

Hello. I have a V40 1,8 Bj 98 and there are the sticky rubbers knocked out. How can you get there? I can’t even see the screw which holds the rubber clamp. So I don’t know which nut size depends on it but to me is a rattle of how to use a tool at all. You can only get there from a wheel box but that’s hardly possible, I don’t understand how this should work. Greeting Joachim

Hello, now that I have replaced a torn steering cuff myself, there is something new: the servo pump “sings”, or hums. Only very quietly, now I hear it in the interior. The higher the speed, the higher it hums. Does anyone know that, and how was it repaired? How fast should I act? Still the servo support is normal, but that the part will get stuck, is probably foreseeable or? It could also be the alternator, but the sound seems to come rather from the servo pump.

Out of curiosity I wanted to ask questions like exactly how your BC indicates the average consumption. I have only a 3 tank filling “experience” but notice that it is each about 0.3 liters below my calculated consumption. In general I notice how low the consumption of the T4 is. I expected with +/- 10 liters with mixed driving mode and occasionally kick. I did not have it for long but regret the purchase in no case. My ’93 Mondeo Mk1 with 1.8 liter engine also allowed 7.5 – 8.5 liters … and there it was much more comfortable to do…. here my ‘bordbook’:http://www.spritmonitor.de/de/detailview/159407.html -> will try to put this into my signature…

Hello, I have something to install in the subwoofer box at the back right of the case room, the question is of course what is possible. both in the loud speaker boxes in the case room as well as in the subwoofer box there are no speakers installed….in the loud speaker boxes in the case room, however, there are cables laid. Have there successfully installed speakers. But what about the subwoofer box…How do I get the cables installed there at all? For what is this supposed to be. Have read there two sockets for 13cm speakers??? subwoofer installation is not possible??? should I take a subwoofer, first install an end stage, I still need a connection from the battery..is the one already installed…. Do I need an active subwoofer, i.e. subwoofer with built-in end stage, also an extra connection from the battery?

… in advance, I have already searched, found a lot and done a lot of things. First of all, I put it together: First failure blower, I read a lot about the resistance from the blower and changed it to another “used” (belonging to the fact that my fan was standing here for about 14 days – without a connected battery – because the turning roller was stuck and I waited for the right part. After the battery was turned on again (and during the same time the blower resistance was changed), my fan purred again as usual. After a few days unfortunately again same suffering, fan dead on all stages, climate and air switch after start again friendly at the blinking. I then drove a strong cross channel out of carelessness quite violently over, though certainly hurt my car, but fans ran again – for 2 days, then old suffering :-(Short time later then again I will be looking again for a few hours – oh joy, blower and again away. After further reading, I have checked “again again” and then again Frust again without the whole C.

Hello together have a huge problem I had to install a new ignition lock three weeks ago because the key could not be rotated anymore. Now overnight the battery went empty adac called to bridge tja and now the immobilizer is active Have the original key lie with my parents (about 300 kilometers away ) My question is now if I pick up the old key today and hold it to the lock and turn around with the new key would let the immobilizer deactivate, would still drive today if that should go

Hello Volvo friends, I recently bought a Volvo V40 2.0T (165hp). The first days worked the acceleration problemlessly. In a few days the turbo stopped operating. I was already short in the workshop. Here the LMM always indicated the same value during a test drive. The technician might suspect the LMM. But unfortunately he didn’t have more time. I bought and installed a new LMM now (unfortunately not the right one afterwards). But there was one et what better acceleration and the engine sounded a bit (hard to describe) higher. With the old LMM it sounds a bit deeper. But a real turbo insert didn’t come. I have ordered the 100% correct one again (from VDO). I suspect that the error comes from somewhere else. I once tried to visually determine something. If you look down behind the LMM towards Turbo, it looks pretty oily. I took a photo once. What do you think? I am happy about every hi If

So Volvo friends I sold, for at least 1000 euros, I have to go out I sold the Volvo as a decomposition of public order to Africa My wife is completely new, she has withdrawn the divorce I have spare time again, but pretty he was already, only partially misconstructed, just Swedish. Will always look in here, maybe I buy Peugeot. Thanks to all who have helped with a constructive post, could after 2 years The list of repairs is endless, too long Pirate