Category: Volvo S40, V40 Forum

  • Car gas in the V40 Turbo

    Hello, I’m new to this forum and would like to share my experiences that I’ve made with autogas only briefly to maybe encourage one or the other to think, so that maybe it doesn’t happen similar to me. About 3 years ago I had an autogas system built in Landi-Renzo and was very satisfied. When taking gas on the highway at about 120 km/h (from about 140km/h) the Lambda warning lamp burned, and that happened to me often, (the warning lamp went after the 7th time start again) I went to the Werstatt again, it was re-regulated and from there no more prblems. With this gas system I drove now almost 70,000 km and had no problems anymore up to a slight jerking when I gave again gas after the gas take. Now came the disillusionment. After a approx.30 km long highway drive (approx. 130km/h) and a rise (6%) a little faster lif the engine only on 3 pots. Conclusion was a burned away valve. r Wekstatt where I have the Zyliderkopf repaired was the first question whether the car drives with car gas, otherwise the valves and seats would have to be made gas-proof. Maybe everyone of the gas installation before has to ask themselves at the brand workshop whether these concerns express – that is definitely cheaper than an engine damage, because there is a powerful tail attached to it. Maybe someone has had similar experiences. I would be pleased with answers.

  • no more gas

    Hi guys. Now I have a problem and hope you can help me with it, maybe which of you also had the problem? I drive a 1.9D with 102hp and it’s a 2oo1er. When I drive in the city or on the country road, quite normal with the traffic, it comes from time to time that the gas stays out at once. Only when I walk off the pedal and give gas again, he drives on normally. The funny thing is, shortly before my tepomat has given up the mind (the error cause I have My girlfriend drove my car today and the same thing happened again, this happened in a 30’s zone for example. My question is now, have you already had experiences there and is it “hopefully” a small flaw?? I am grateful for every tip. Nice weekend SwedenThomas

  • Poor heating performance

    Hello, with our V40 (petrol, 115 hp, year 98) the heating does not work really well. It comes maximum lukewarm air. The temperature indicator is slightly below the center. I have unfortunately only my 850 as a comparison. It heats very well and has the indicator (after the thermostat opened) exactly in the middle. Is it possible that the thermostat has broken open, or is there any other problems? The water pump was changed when the timing belt changed recently, But I don’t want to rule out anything. Would the thermostat be easy to replace? Which antifreeze is needed with the engine? Thank you very much.

  • who can help a helpless woman with a problem with V 40!

    Hello, I urgently need help. I have to go to the TüV and just now a warning light goes on forever. I unfortunately only have a Swedish manual. So who has a German manual or/and can tell me what it means when the warning light (description: round BIRNE with exclamation mark) lights up. What problem can there possibly exist? Thank you very much.

  • Nu it happened… no tuv.

    hello forum! last Monday it happened, I wanted to drive my elch with the best certain to tuv and hide the plaque. I met a friendly, but penible examiner. result was an eternal long list of defects with partly real lapalia. starting from headlamp creation wrong (ok, is made!), exhaust system damaged / defective (very slight clacking on the curvature… how can he hear that? could also have been the injection nozzles), windscreen wiper rear This was also problematic, that my dipped-beam stays on with the refitted clear glasses with activated remote light. according to the examiner, this is not permissible but if far-light, then only far-light and otherwise nocturnal. however, I was 100per sure that the switching of the series vehicles with clear glass is exactly like this. a short telephone call of the examiner could then confirm my opinion… and so it went on… but now two posts are coming to me after all First, the free movement of the left front wheel should not be given. at full impact and full suspension of the damper, the wheel comes to the inner cladding of the wheel box. how often does that happen? once a year at 2kmh maybe. a pity, I’ll probably have to fix it. does someone happen where I get a deflection limiter for the v40? volvo has nothing special in the program and wanted me for 200€ what base ln. would also springway limiters bring what? secondly, my ignition lock (!) was checked and the following criticized. the steering wheel lock can already be snapped at key position 0. plastically presented: I drive, turn off the engine, wobble on the steering wheel and leave the car. this is not allowed however, since the lock can only be activated after the pull off of the key. honestly, I never noticed and has never been checked. for each case i is a new ignition lock really expensive. does anyone know the exact price? new key necessary or will a suitable one be delivered? how is it actually with this steering wheel lock… what would be if I completely destroy the steering wheel lock? then it can no longer grasp too soon or is the lock part of the vehicle’s registration? low greetings, max

  • Timing Belts Change and control times

    Hello Paul my name I have the following problem and that I wanted to change the timing belt yesterday with my Volvo S40 from 1998. When dismantling and so everything went great only then where the timing belt was off the camshafts have changed. I did not use a tool because I did not have one and the timing belt was due. Doof idea I know! Now the camshafts inlet and outlet are adjusted as well as the crankshaft. My question would also be if I had the camshafts on the markings should turn and the crankshaft also say 1. cylinder on OT, or rather not. Is the engine still to be saved or rather not? MFG Paul

  • Camshaft adjuster – once again…

    Moin, have the problem now, too. Not permanently, but again and again this characteristic sound appears. I have just made a change of timing belt and wants to do a longer tour with my 22 year old V40 1.8. Back and forth 350 km each. After reading a lot of things here, I wonder if I should start the ride at all without having to tackle the problem before. Some people seem to have been driving around with the noise here forever, others are doing the same thing. n a motor flush, change the oil etc. The question is whether it is even worth putting money into the car again or whether I should just let it go… Are there opinions too? Many greetings

  • Turbocharger General / Conversion Softturbo to Turbo from T4

    Hello Leutz, would like to have an info thread about turbochargers here. What would interest me in particular fits a TD04-14T (1.9 T4) in a vehicle with original built-in TD04-12T (2.0T Softturbo) What would everything have to be changed: ** Hardware-like? ** Software-like? What would the conversion bring and has someone done here before? I have already read that some of the loaders here have let themselves be sent from Japan, everything went smoothly over the stage, how long did the Versan last? d? What was added to customs? Many questions So nu los Bandit

  • Volvo V40 T4 temperature

    Hello have there a stupid question my water temperature rises when it’s hot out between 25 and 30 degrees so if I’m standing at the traffic light or I’m in city traffic after a short time to 102 degrees then the fan turns on a cool in then down to about 91 degrees.Now my question is that normal or is that not normal ?

  • Volvo V40 which engine is recommended

    Hello, I would like to buy an old V40 with about 130,000km running guidance. Unfortunately I am still a little unreliable about the engine because I have read about the 1.8i of mitsubishi much bad. Which engine would be most recommended (apart from the 1.9l diesel)? For me would be questionable: 1.6l machine with 80KW 1.8l machine with 85KW 2.0l with 100KW and 103KW In addition, another 1.8l machine with 90KW which is NOT 1.8i but also 1.8, seems from year of construction 19 1. Question: Which machines are to be recommended, I actually want to buy the 1.8l machine with 90KW, can you also grab a 1.6l machine or are they not in principle so long-lasting? 2. Question: Should I beat this completely out of my head and rather take the diesel or the old 1.8l with 85KW? All other facts, such as the fact that I have to be 99/2000. 1.8i 125hp machine from Mitsubishi which has the bad reputation, which therefore is no longer in question. n maintenance depends on whether the car has been driven a lot of urban traffic, which oil….are known to me and do not require any further explanation it is only about the quality of the engines and their susceptibility to interference or service life. MfG Christoph