Category: Volvo S40, V40 Forum

Hello, I have something to install in the subwoofer box at the back right of the case room, the question is of course what is possible. both in the loud speaker boxes in the case room as well as in the subwoofer box there are no speakers installed….in the loud speaker boxes in the case room, however, there are cables laid. Have there successfully installed speakers. But what about the subwoofer box…How do I get the cables installed there at all? For what is this supposed to be. Have read there two sockets for 13cm speakers??? subwoofer installation is not possible??? should I take a subwoofer, first install an end stage, I still need a connection from the battery..is the one already installed…. Do I need an active subwoofer, i.e. subwoofer with built-in end stage, also an extra connection from the battery?

… in advance, I have already searched, found a lot and done a lot of things. First of all, I put it together: First failure blower, I read a lot about the resistance from the blower and changed it to another “used” (belonging to the fact that my fan was standing here for about 14 days – without a connected battery – because the turning roller was stuck and I waited for the right part. After the battery was turned on again (and during the same time the blower resistance was changed), my fan purred again as usual. After a few days unfortunately again same suffering, fan dead on all stages, climate and air switch after start again friendly at the blinking. I then drove a strong cross channel out of carelessness quite violently over, though certainly hurt my car, but fans ran again – for 2 days, then old suffering :-(Short time later then again I will be looking again for a few hours – oh joy, blower and again away. After further reading, I have checked “again again” and then again Frust again without the whole C.

Hello together have a huge problem I had to install a new ignition lock three weeks ago because the key could not be rotated anymore. Now overnight the battery went empty adac called to bridge tja and now the immobilizer is active Have the original key lie with my parents (about 300 kilometers away ) My question is now if I pick up the old key today and hold it to the lock and turn around with the new key would let the immobilizer deactivate, would still drive today if that should go

Hello Volvo friends, I recently bought a Volvo V40 2.0T (165hp). The first days worked the acceleration problemlessly. In a few days the turbo stopped operating. I was already short in the workshop. Here the LMM always indicated the same value during a test drive. The technician might suspect the LMM. But unfortunately he didn’t have more time. I bought and installed a new LMM now (unfortunately not the right one afterwards). But there was one et what better acceleration and the engine sounded a bit (hard to describe) higher. With the old LMM it sounds a bit deeper. But a real turbo insert didn’t come. I have ordered the 100% correct one again (from VDO). I suspect that the error comes from somewhere else. I once tried to visually determine something. If you look down behind the LMM towards Turbo, it looks pretty oily. I took a photo once. What do you think? I am happy about every hi If

So Volvo friends I sold, for at least 1000 euros, I have to go out I sold the Volvo as a decomposition of public order to Africa My wife is completely new, she has withdrawn the divorce I have spare time again, but pretty he was already, only partially misconstructed, just Swedish. Will always look in here, maybe I buy Peugeot. Thanks to all who have helped with a constructive post, could after 2 years The list of repairs is endless, too long Pirate

So far all the prima, super comfortable, good workmanship and a great design at a good price! Only the only catch would be the consumption with which I slowly start to doubt whether that must be so… As I said, I drive the car now since December and have initially pushed the consumption of ~13l (almost pure city traffic) to the winter and thus a little longer warm running phases. Now I drive every morning well 15km (Bund) it road) to my place of work and lie at ~11l with massively defensive driving mode (hundred at the line) and switch still before 2500tours. Even with slight acceleration (really carefully gas-giving) the consumption indicator rises quickly by the 20l or more!The tailpipe on the exhaust is also quickly lost although it almost does not require any oil, which could possibly be a sign of too fat mixture. Someone already had similar problem, or is all this normal and must also go to I am grateful for every tip! MfG VitaminG P.S.:Air filter is new

Hello Volvo friends! I’ve been driving a V 40 D, 1.9/66 KW plus chip with now 252 Tkm on the clock for a little over a year, which I’ve been driving a little over 50 Tkm since I bought. All in all, it’s a problem-free vehicle with moderate consumption of around 6-6.3 liters. Small things like the broken sockets of the circuit and the glow plugs, as well as oil change/gear oil change/gear belt etc. I have renewed at 200Tkm. Now that’s important for me. Unct, soft and spongy, pushing too far through, very fast fading behavior, bad braking effect, especially after multiple braking briefly in a row. Since the brake discs and pads have to be changed in front and back, I would like to replace the front saddles and discs against those of the V 40 T or T4. Can anyone tell me if this is possible? Do the pliers fit the shots of the V40 D? I also have to replace the main brake cylinder. Thoughts about this gratefully and thank me already in advance ! Greetings, Richvm

Hello together, driving recently nn v40 1.8 115ps Bj.1997…. have the problem that at the traffic light of the 1st course never really goes in, you have to press very firmly, that can not be good, besides I have a lot of game at the switch lift when I’m in a gang…vllt. has that also something to do with it…The car has 122,000km…. Could this be a announced gear damage? or rather clutch??? Many thanks already in advance

Hello, since today there is a problem with the driver’s door. I can lock the car with key and FB. Lock all doors (button disappears). Only the driver’s door can still be opened normally. With the driver’s door the button remains at the bottom. Who can help me with this problem?

Hi I just couldn’t believe it when I wanted to open my car yesterday Abdend and I had to stand in front of closed doors. At first I wanted to open the ZV by constriction, but that didn’t work, because I tried it cuddly at the door lock with the key and had to find with astonishment that the key can be turned like at the normal open, but the door opening did not make any movement. The breakdown service could not open the doors either (you can tell me After more than an hour the helper could open the door for me, but he had to take the car up. He put the minus cable (bridge cable) on the ground with me and clamped the plus to a pole. Then he climbed under the car with this construct to get to the plus pole from below (no change). Finally he could pass the current on the starter and see, the doors were now opening again (I’m sorry, I’m sorry, but I’m sorry, but I’m sorry, I’m sorry, but I’m sorry, but I’m sorry. In!). My question to you: Is there really no way to open this car when the battery is empty? That can’t be that this is unfeasible for me as a layman or? How does the Volvo friendly do that? Vehicle data: V40 T4, 92000km, Jg.2000