Category: Volvo S40, V40 Forum

Hi there, I have a nice Volvo V40 (2.0T 163PS) since August. Unfortunately it already caused me some problems – first the engine went off or the speed suddenly fell off when the engine was warm and I went into idle. After replacing a Lambda probe and 2 charging pressure sensors it went again. (Error search + replacement since October until 15.01) The problem only appeared sporadically. This morning everything was still great, when I then left at noon (-4°C) again. wanted to, told me the tank indicator 55km as well as the needle on the red line. After a ride of about 25km and then hold short (~40 seconds) the speed went down briefly to ~550, again a little up and then the engine went off. After re-starting the problem with the tank indicator was gone, but then again the engine went off. After another 2.5 hours of service life the engine was on again and the problem with the tank indicator was there again. No engine control light on. I drive a lot of cure. zstrecke (5km to work, 5km back) and a few times a week distances of 25km. Does anyone have a guess what that might be? Also to the 1st problem, with the speed fluctuations… Thank you in advance, Greeting, Marlon

Moin Together, with my V40 1.8 automatic from 98 it cracks while turning in and starting, will probably be the bearings of the drive shafts. To the right worse than to the left. I’ve been looking for a long time, but I’m not sure which parts to order. Can one help me? On the one hand, you can change the drive shafts, on the other hand, the outer bearings. Where do I start? What do I have to look for? Getting drive shafts is probably a bit difficult he, Skandix no longer offers them to ask about Volvo I have too few heart drops. At the outer camp I don’t know exactly which parts I have to look for. What are their names? Vllt. Part number? I do this myself with support, but I don’t want to stand there with missing parts if I have torn it apart. Thank you

Moin dear people! I’m back again and I’m worried about that: My moose (B4184-S2 + M5P, 241000 km) sings me unpleasant songs from the drive train lately. Unfortunately, you can’t upload media files here, otherwise it would be too easy. I try to describe that. – Listenable from 1500 /min as even jogging, no grinding – frequency increases with speed speed, regardless of gear – overflows the engine in volume despite slightly leaky flex-roof. rs – In thrust mode the noise is slightly lower in frequency – No difference between in- or out-coupled – Do I push the moose in idle mode, I hear ‘crack – clack – clack’ – When rolling out it sounds like a slowing down regional bus Do you have tips on how to circle the causer? The search for forums has not helped me and that the M5P has a mean life of 250000 km, I am aware, but it doesn’t have to be, because some The 300000 have also made it.

Moin Together, more often something new. Had off the steering column cladding on the weekend, the whole unit with blinker and wiper lever seemed loose to me, she could turn around the axis of the steering column about 2-3mm to the right and left. I could not solve this problem so, but……now the control lights don’t go on at ignition any more, none. Car starts, car drives, light goes, brake light goes, warning blinker goes, the corresponding warning lights go on, indicator g It doesn’t matter, the rear fog lamp goes, the matching indicator lamp goes with it. Instrument lighting also works, ignition is on, lighting is on. fuses in the engine compartment checked, no defective found. Thought it was on the trailer, creep current, but also without trailer I have the above problems. Plugs on the unit around the steering column are obviously all where they must be. How to go on…… PS: in the last days I thought about it a few times, that you only post No one posts when everyone is loosing. PS2: must drive 200km with trailer tomorrow morning, no matter what, but everything without a blinker is stupid.

Hello guys, I’m looking for a Volvo V40 station wagon in the Dresden area. It’s supposed to be my first car (I’m 26 years old). I found a few offers here. But all the cars seem quite expensive at above 200k km. Budget is more like 1000 – 2000€ for such an old car. Can you please help me with the purchase decision or possibly advise me not? I’ve already searched for many other threads here, but most of them are now very old.http://ww3.autoscout24.de/classified/ 287458672?asrc=st的as – Volvo V40 1.9 D, EZ 11/2002, 102 hp, 270,000 km, 170€ VHB, from dealer – Black metallic I like best – no checkbook (requested), (yet) no TÜVhttp://suche.mobile.de/…/223735143.html – Volvo V40 1.9 D, EZ 10/2000, 227,000 km, 102 hp, 250€ VHB, from private – many parts newhttp://suche.mobile.de/vehicle/details.html?id=220949763 – Volvo V40 2.0T AUTOMATICS, EZ 06/2001, 165 hp, 242.083 km, 2690€ VHB, from dealer – Grey metallic and performance likes very good to me

Hello everyone, I have the following problem: The well-known “blinker click” comes sporadically with me even without pressing the blinker. I’m also strapped on from there it can have nothing to do with it. It’s just the click – blinker etc. stay out. Now my question: Does anyone know that, or is it to be assumed that only this box in the footroom, which causes the noise, is defective, and can be easily replaced, or is the error somewhere else to look for. Then still one last question: Can you simply unscrew this box and remove or block the part that causes the “click” (consideration for a cheap solution) Greeting

Hello, according to TÜV, my left headlight is “substantially” set too low. Now I wanted to see if it is done with a simple adjustment or if something is broken. Can I adjust the headlight with the screw in the green marked area? The screw can not be rotated properly. Since all this is only plastic I also do not want to use too much force. In addition, this “thing” can be pulled in and out in the red circle. The whole reflector moves horizo That’s not normal, is it? The screw can’t be rotated there either. But it certainly only serves the horizontal alignment?

Good morning, the current question is what kind of summer tire to buy. I read this week the tire test for 225/45 R17 in the “Car” magazine with the 4 big letters. Very recommendable among other things: not surprising… Bridgestone RE050 Continental Sport Contact3 Pirelli PZero Nero and to my surprise… HANKook VENTUS V12 EVO (K110) The latter I want to consider in the dimension 215/40 R17 for my V40. This is brand new on the market u Not to beat test information in price/performance. (Tyre-direct € 98.00 for 215/40 R17) Does any of you have experience with Hankook tires? Maybe with the S1 Evo?? What would interest me, too – BARUM is the cheap brand of DUNLOP – they are also so good? I have Dunlop M+S tires and they are top, but also extremely expensive! And the “billigmarken” from own home (see Firestone/Bridgestone) can be quite good. Greetings Mez

Hello, we have recently had massive problems with our V40 TD, 66kW, engine D4192T, the good old Renault engine F8QT, BJ 01/98. When starting cold, let it rotate for a long time until it starts. Ok , you can live with it. The idle speed is too low, between 600 and 700 revolutions with cold engine. Then it does not keep the speed right, it varies constantly by approx. 100 rpm. With warm engine it commutes between 850 and 950 rpm. When switching, you have the feeling that the car does not have any light. g has more, only when the turbocharger gets enough pressure it finally pulls, before it drives like a 34hp-fiat-panda with tightened handbrake. Even with constant gas the car has drop-outs, i.e. it jerks from the engine, as if it pulls false air or pulls air over the diesel line. (Similar to ignition-slips…) or not get enough diesel. If the car then accelerates and one keeps the accelerator on the highway under good load it drives itself quite standard al, but for city traffic and highway this driving behavior is really annoying. Diesel filter is new, it can’t be because … Does any of you have an idea ?

Hello, my moose is ready for me at the moment a little worry… Hopefully it’s only a broken/stricken/defected/slipped turbo hose… Symptoms: Sometimes everything is fine, the turbo does what it needs to do, whistles quite easily in the background (is normal or?) and everything is good. But then the turbo is all loud at once. You hear a very loud hissing while giving gas. When I quickly walk off the gas I hear clearly how the excess pressure is dropped (wastegate defective?). If it is hissing while accelerating, there is still good performance, maybe a little less than normal. What I find strange is that sometimes everything is fine. If the Wastegate valve or a hose were defective, would it always have to hiss or? I hope I could describe my problem in an understandable way. Where is the Wastegate valve? I would like to see if I can’t detect a defective hose or leak. Unfortunately today I didn’t have the e Time to check all hoses (engine was still warm and I didn’t have time to wait). Thank you for your tips or solutions. Matthias