Category: Volvo S40, V40 Forum

Hello guys, I need all your advice. I’ve looked at a Volvo V40 from 1999. Lots of space and actually good condition. Smaller rust bubbles on a fender and rear wheelwheel, which I would let away directly from the paintr. The driver’s seat is also ripped open, I don’t care……either get a used one or bring to the saddler. So far ABS sensors, exhaust, climate compressor, and other things have been made. Brakes this year new. The engine is e in 1.8l with 116Ps and has almost 200,000km on the hump. Timing belts made verifiable at 120,000km, as well as any service. Clutch has not been made yet, but is amazingly good because the vehicle was moved almost only on the highway. But I was now advised from all sides that because of the V40 there is no more Volvo, but garbage?? Cars, electrics, engine all scrap? Who can tell me more exactly about the engine and the car? As said, I am not looking for a racing car, but a b illustrious everyday vehicle….. I am grateful for every opinion and promise that I will continue to contribute to this in the future in terms of Volvo…. Greetings Michael

Hello, dear moose community, our moose is now going into the 11th year and still drives with the first cooling water filling. My question: Do you want to replace the stuff once and for all? If so, how is this done? Which hoses do I have to remove in order to empty the system as far as possible? Can I then refill the system via the balancing tank? Thank you in advance for your (hopefully numerous) answers. Best regards from the north

Hello everyone, we are soon desperate here. Our Volvo V40 T Di Bj. 2001 Km-stand: approx. 256 000 constantly loses water, nowhere else is there to see water, so it can not lie on a leaky pipe, let’s think. The cylinder head seal was made only 3 months ago. The workshop took out the thermostat, because it has gone constantly in the red before and the fan front was permanently on, even after we turned off the car he ran still after. Jetz t is thermostat outside, today he went up on the highway again in the red. We had the engine off, there was the balance tank half full, however at the start of the car the tank was empty, you could see it correctly how he had sucked in the water. If we drive e.g. highway he pushed Wassr out, always piece by piece.. And where he went as said in the red and the red lamp already started the Volvo went down with the gas by itself, he got slower and slower, the gas pedal was like blocked.. We don’t know any more… But since Thermostat was out, the fan at the front is not asoo many times as before.. That’s why we thought it was because, but as I said today, the same theater again.. Has anyone ever had experiences with it??? What could it be??

Hello together, sorry if I don’t know the correct technical terms and have to rewrite everything a bit funny, but I don’t really know about engines 😉 I’ve been racing in the engine compartment for a while. I’ve also been able to locate it. It comes from such a pole that if you look at the engine from the top between the engine and the drive room is attached. Looks like a joint rod (I don’t know what it’s called. If, for example, I drive down a small hump and then both do not give a gas and not a dome, it starts to rattle. As soon as I give gas again or a dome it is gone. If I have seen the right thing, the connection with this joint rod, i.e. with the joint, is not right. If I press on it with the screw pull and give gas, the ratchet stops. Is there perhaps a seal or something to fix that? Or does it have to be built in a whole new rod? d i still have a question……at the V40 is the interval for the timing belt lt. workshop at 150,000 KM. As I have seen in the checkbook now this was changed already at KM 83,000 before I bought it. No idea why. Does the change now extend to 230,000 KM????? I would be very grateful for some tips and ideas!!!!!

Hello, great forum, so first of all to my car 😉 I bought a baby blue V40, Bj 12.99, 1.8 in February and am, except for a few minor repairs, really satisfied. Only one thing irritates me. Normally the engine runs quite calmly. Only sometimes it starts to vibrate very strongly at the traffic light, i.e. in idle mode (sounds almost like a diesel) and also often goes out without any signs (also in idle mode) without the engine light approaching before. I have read about similar problems before, whereby a change of the ignition coil(s) has made a remedy. You have more idea here than I do, so could it be ? Because of spontaneous going out at the traffic light I have not been able to read here. Maybe you can help me ?! Thank you ! Sebastian

Hello! My V 40 hardly pulls noticeably to the right! It can only be felt on the track. But the steering wheel is absolutely quiet. (So no vibrations or so) It is laid deeper, with Eibach springs. (What I undo, at the next wheel change) And on the tires (front axle) are slight washouts in the profile. (inner side) The washouts, I thought, lie on the fall, which should normalize with normal springs again. But to the not exact track I have no idea! W He’s got experiences with it?

Hello you great Volvo drivers, it’s great when you drive a Volvo! Especially when you see a Volvo that is almost the same as mine. It was a diesel. You look and whack immensely. Here in Slovakia there are not so many Volvos. Most are Skoda and VW. Today I was a little tinkering or replaced old parts with new parts. For example, I changed all H4 pears. Thus, there is much more light for me as a driver. In Slovakia, you have to be And I don’t know how long the old ones have been inside. After their appearance for a very long time!!! Then, according to my book from Volvo, I searched for the fuse box. Two should be in the car, one with the steering and the other is in the engine compartment. The search started and found out that there is no one in the car with the steering (according to Volvo there should be one)!!! Funny! Is there no fuse box in the passenger compartment with the Volvo V40? Is the fuse box in the engine compartment, The only one? Nice evening and greeting from Torsten

Hello everyone, I’ve had my Bf 17 driver’s license for 3 months now and I’m already looking for the first car which must be in my possession by the 18th. I’m not someone who kicks his car until it doesn’t run anymore, because I don’t want to spend a lot of money on new clutches, tyres, brakes,…. Now on the subject: I’ve been looking at the Volvo V40 for some time now and I’ve been looking at the Volvo V40. What you’re reading about this is almost positive (Solid Techni k, low consumption, comparatively cheaper maintenance,…). I’m talking about the diesel variant with 116hp. With a used one of this age, a diesel is worth it quite quickly compared to the petrol engines (or?). Now I would like to know if it is suitable for beginners (at least I usually drive a lemon with 109Ps FAP diesel)? 4000€ I have together and I think that you could get something useful for that. I also find the Audi A4 B5 interesting. More expensive to entertain and usually not as nicely equipped as a V40. What do you say? MfG Timo

Hello!! Got a problem with my Volvo V40 2.0t (MJ.2001, 155,000km) For some time now my V40 has been jerking in the lower speed range.Motor lamp glowed sporadically The idling is very uneven (runs like on 3 cylinders) error I was already reading out.Ecm 25 power-offtrimmreglung lean in memory The Lambda probe was replaced at the front. Lambda lamp is out since then but idling is unround and FZG is jerking under 2500 rpm. Ignition plugs are new,Zündspulen are new, petrol pressure regulator is n eu, fuelilter is new,Craft pressure has been checked 2.4bar on the injection strip,Rossel flap is cleaned,empty flow control valve cleaned,air mass meter is new,fuel pump has been sieve cleaned, but Fzg still jerks??? Does anyone still have a tip for me??? Many greetings gajolin1

Hello, I renewed the windows and blocks on the rear axle a few weeks ago. I drove without problems a few weeks ago. I noticed recently that the car on the mountain seems to lack a few hp. The brake on the rear left was very hot and stank burned. I looked at the handbrake rope that was stuck. So I changed the ropes on both sides and made the handbrake adjustment very loose for the time being. Nevertheless, the brakes on the rear were still warmer than that was the case in the past. On that I completely set the brake calipers back (pistons and bolts on both sides absolutely common!!) They are now no longer excessively hot, but still more than it used to be and above all much warmer than the front brakes. How can this be and what can you do about it? The last theory that comes to mind is that the brakes in the rear are very smooth and the front is not, which causes more braking power to be applied at the rear than in the back. Usually, which makes it warmer at the back. So just check the front pistons and bolts of the saddles for consistency?