Category: Volvo S40, V40 Forum

Hello, my V40 loses some liquid from the exhaust gas turbocharger. It is visible only after a few hundred kilometers on the balance tank. On the garage floor, however, a few drops under the turbo are always visible after parking. I first thought it was a hot screw for the cooling water, or its seal which has become leaking on the turbo (marking on the picture). However, if you take a closer look, the exit point for me can’t be narrowed down so precisely. (S ihe pictures). Would you advise me to try it with a cooler sealant, or are there disadvantages to expect ? MfG

Hello community a friend of mine wants to buy a Volvo V40, but the car has a problem! As long as the car is cold he drives completely normal, he gets warm, he no longer takes gas, swallows himself and then goes out. He meant it feels like steam bubbles when he starts to get warm !!! He also starts again when he has become cold !!! Furthermore he said at the rail valve he produces “air bubbles” petrol pump and petrol pipes have been renewed ! It is about a 97 he with 1855 ccm and 147 kw! Who knows what that could be? Are grateful for every tip, would be a pity if the Volvo is sold elsewhere have already looked over the search but unfortunately not found anything

Hello, also with me the brake fluid circuit light now lights up with steeper curves. According to the search, the three causes of decelerated brake pads clutch receivers defective leak in the system So, since the brakes do not pack 100%, and come very late, a replacement of the brake pads/discs would be the first option. However, since apparently also oil comes out somewhere (legitimately staining in the parking lot), it could also be a leak or defect clutch receiver. It’s a V40 1.9 Disel 75Kw from 2001 Do I have to pay attention to something, or can I order a complete set from e.g. ebay? Greetings Leatherface

Hello together, unfortunately my Volvo V40, BJ 2001 – bought 8 weeks ago – the catalyst is broken. At first we thought that falls under the warranty, but after searching the internet and talking to dealers is probably not quite clear whether the cat is treated as a wear part or not and to avoid legal trouble, we have been able with the dealer to pay 2/3 and we 1/3 of the cost of the repair (first he wanted to make 50/50). 800 euros for the cat as well as a good hour of work, i.e. approx. 950 euros. Now I asked at a part dealer what the cat costs with him and he has called me a price of approx. 480 euros incl. VAT. and of course incl. his span. Original part, just as it is now installed. Am stinkesauer! May the dealer pay over 100% of the material value, if we participate in the costs with a certain percentage? His invoice goes great on… But we pay over 100 euros more! Have cancelled the workshop appointment now, because I don’t have a nerve to renegotiate with him and want to be sure of what the (legal) situation is like here. Have you had similar experiences or can you help me with anything else? Thank you for your help and nice greetings!

Unfortunately, in winter my moose was unsuited….. This thin fold or envelope at the bottom of the threshold was covered and the rust protection damaged. At these places it starts to rust… It has already been months ago. The Tr*ttel used a jack, in which unfortunately these “rubber plates” were missing. I was already angry at that time, but the winter ices had to do it. I can’t accept damage claims. ? Or first primer/basic paint (this white stuff before you paint)? What does this fold look like for you? Is actually a rather weak spot when you see how thin the sheet is there, and what it theoretically has to endure.

Hello, for a few days I have had a crack and quit on the rear axle (right). It’s not often and not very loud, but it’s there. Today I took the tire down and looked at what’s going on (see pictures). Looks as if the suspension spring was bent… I think that’s been so for a long time… I noticed the bare spot when changing tyres, but I didn’t think about anything at the time. The spring is bent to the wheel, but it’s still about . a hand width place. Can this also be the reason why my elk prefers to drive a bit to the right rather than straight ahead? Interestingly, this changes depending on the load. So, what do I do with the spring now? I guess that has to be out… Should I change the shock absorbers immediately? Which brands are recommended (read here in the forum that the Sachs are good…)? Have also read that dampers and springs should be matched to each other… is there something about it? Thank you for r Your answers Matthias

Hello, I need some help. Today I have established that the rear right wheel can only be turned scwer, parallel to this the left one lighter (but also not quite easy). Besides, it is that the wheel screw is totally hot after the ride. Furthermore, the hand brake can be pulled up to the stop, so to speak. I would like to know now whether this is a hand brake problem? And what can I do myself to find the exact error and I have to say that the error with the handbrake has been in place for months. However, I noticed that with the wheel and the hotness of the bike I only noticed today.Before I checked nothing in this way. Thank you very much. Günter

Hello… first of all, I would like to state: For good work I like to pay good money! However, I wonder why the spare parts in half-timbered workshops are so massively higher than those you get for brand goods on the Internet. Two examples: A) Kat for nen V40 MJ 2001 750Eur without everything at specialist workshop and in comparison 310Eur incl. taxes and shipping from the KAT manufacturer. B) currently brake caliper at the rear left, spare part specialist workshop 250EUR, in Internet shipping 100-120Eur (ATE or LUK). Daz u comes still some holder for 54EUR per page + 2x Bremscheibe and the corresponding documents! That is each more than the double, for brand goods and no cheap scrap well noticed! Gottseidank I had the cat installed itself and cheaper. With the brake caliper I had now unfortunately no time with cheaper parts to get. If the brake is tight and the car should not move any more. Since really the collar bursts, how come such price differences Is it? Greetings

Moin moin, now I’m also one of the Volvo drivers (I’ll bring pictures and introduce my car, it’s just all wet outside). Now to my question: I have n v40 year 2001 without any special equipment, so normal speakers. Unfortunately, the car was only equipped with n cheap radio (cybercom) from the previous owner and that brings n sober sound and no bass at all. Now I want to ask what kind of thing you can recommend to me. n, but n bit of bass and good sound should come around already. Should definitely have a CD/Mp3 function, I don’t have anything against aux-in or USB-connection, but don’t have to be. Thought about spending 100€, if necessary more or less. Have no idea about it at all. Do I actually need any adapter or so to connect a radio? Have seen various kits at ebay, but want to contact you first. MfG Björn

Hello together, I noticed yesterday that when I operate the air conditioning system at regular intervals, probably to the moments when the climate compressor switches on, the light becomes darker for a short moment. That was already not a short underblitzen any more, rather the light certainly became 10% darker and there was also a short jerk in driving operation. I had the impression that the voltage break-in also affected the ignition. If I switch off the climate automatic, over The switch with the 2 LEDs doesn’t happen any more. What makes this happen? Does the climate compressor draw too much power due to its age, perhaps due to lack of fitness? Is it perhaps due to a generally poor power supply that collapses when another large consumer is switched on? How can I check this? So that the announcements that this should be looked at by a specialist are limited. I am technically savvy (IT-System-Elek) troniker, state-owned technician electrical engineering, in two weeks :-))….just don’t necessarily in the car sector. Look forward to news and wish you a nice Sunday.