Category: Volvo S40, V40 Forum

Hello, I would like to buy a Volvo V 40 soon. In principle I would be more interested in a petrol engine. Depending on consumption and maintenance costs I would also choose a diesel. If I want to drive the Volvo V40 as cheaply as possible, which engine should I choose? Does nothing need to be agile, I would only like to come from A to B cheaply. So which is the most economical diesel and which is the most economical gasoline engine and how much do the engines consume? Greetings and thanks, Felix

Hello! Since the extensive use of the search function did not help me, I open up a new topic. I know that in some Fred times links were mentioned, but I did not find it again. So the following: with me (or my elch v40 bj. 01/97 1.8 l 115 hp;184000 km) a few smaller reperatures are necessary, which I would like to do with the help of a expert friend. Since I also want to get the parts myself, I need help from you. Maybe you can also give me tips, with which you have had good experiences. The following things are: – air filter – oil plus – filter – Stabi’s rear axle – pollen or interior filter – brake blocks front – lock back (has someone experiences with it?) – ignition candles – shock absorbers (where I want to have them tested again, since I lack a comparison) – luggage cover holder at the back Otherwise my elch (laut durchsicht) makes a very good impression! Neither rust nor Macken! I thank you for the help for your Leo service already!

Hello dear Volvo community, I might like to buy the following Volvo V40 from private: Volvo V 40 T4 black metallic EZ: 01/2000 KM: 94,000 manual transmissions TÜV/AU: 01/2009 Special equipment: air conditioning, Volvo CD radio, metallic and fog lights. The condition should be flawless. Garage vehicle. Accident-free. 1. Hand, stapled, non-smoking. Winter tyres are also included (all tyres in good condition – profile approx. 6-7mm). The seller wants EUR 8,600,- and is ready to take the Volvo a test at the DEKRA (DEKRA seal). What do you think about this offer? Is the price ok? And another question: I would like to upgrade the Volvo to car gas after purchase (about EUR 2150,- cost). I drive about 15,000km a year. Do you think the upgrade makes sense, given the age and the running performance of the Volvo?

Moin together, I wanted to change my Volvo V 40 Bj 2000 engine 1.8 petrol sucker the timing belt, Wapu, tensioner, ULR… and the camshaft sealing ring (inlet, front side). I forgot to lock the camshaft in the icy of the battle. Doof, I know. . So I released the bolt from the inlet gear with the impact wrench. Except for the bolts nothing moved. Now I do not know if the camshaft did not stretch a piece. It did not feel moved. Nevertheless, my question is now whether I can see, for example, on the camshaft sensor wheel as the OT position of the camshaft is. I have not found any markings for the shaft. Ot position for the gear wheel is clear, but since it is an adjustable gear, this is not fixed on the shaft. I am grateful for every tip.

Hello, this topic has been discussed many times lately, but no one could say more precisely about it… My V40 1.8 special edition has a full leather equipment, but (unfortunately) without seat heating – which I would like to retrofit now with ORIGINAL PARTS. Upon request with Volvo directly, this would be possible if the car is “pre-wired”. Otherwise this wiring would have to be done. The first dealer was of the opinion that my V40 was not wired, but the second confirmed that the wiring was available. According to the second dealer, then only 2 switches, 1 relay and 2 heating elements would be installed. …What does this look like with wiring? Is it done with the simple installation of the switches and plugs? And how is this with the famous seam in the middle of the seat, must be locked off the seat for the original heating cushions? What does this look like afterwards? Would the experts among you really super grateful for a quick answer!

Hello together, I have a rather urgent problem with my parents’ Volvo V40. Since yesterday the fan or the interior fan no longer works. 1. guess: fuse. I checked. 100% OK (because it is the same for the disc heating and this works or does not work if the appropriate fuse is missing). 2. guess: blower motor defective. Plugs pulled and bridged with a 9V battery (unfortunately nothing else…). Blower ran, although only very weak because of the battery, but it ran. Then measured the plug with a voltmeter. Ignition off -> 0.00V; ignition on -> 0.30V; No change if I have “regulated” on the fan controller. 3. guess: the two plugs next to the fan plugs put in any relay or something like that (which I believe belong to the fan control) both plugs individually pulled off and all contacts (1x 3 and 1x 4) measured. Sometimes there were 0.00V and sometimes 11V. But there was never a change when I turned on the fan controller.

Good evening to the round! I am currently busy with the V40 petrol engines of PhaseII – everywhere you read about the defect of camshaft adjustment. Now such internet searches have the catch, that you can only find negative statements and the satisfied drivers rarely report. So I would be interested, who drives a PhII petrol engine here, first of all the 1.8 122hp and has no problems with the camshaft wheel? How often does the defect occur when? Some wrote (yes, I have searched the SuFu) of intervals 40-60k kilometers. Others have 180.000km on it and do not mention any defect…also in the “Who has how much KM on the Tacho” thread smoked turbochargers more often… So please get out with the language MfG

Hello dear ones, I’m very desperate right now and need help. My Volvo ran a while unround, apparently means on 3 cylinders instead of on fours. Since the plugs to the ignition coils were already falling quite apart from the age, we changed them. No change, but on the contrary, everything worse: it only ran on 2 cylinders. Then we changed the ignition coils, because only the cylinders ran on them the coils are on it. Also no real improvement. Finally, the cables to the other two cylinders measured, had no passage, exchanged and runs now on 4 cylinders, but somehow he doesn’t take the gas properly, he stutters so little ahead of him, but he doesn’t properly run. I don’t know how to describe it differently. I have a few guys at my hand who know each other, but there is now everyone with his Latin at the end. Maybe you still have the one or other idea. Otherwise I have to explain him for dead and that would be really thank you for your tips in advance, Amlie

Hello, so here’s the problem of my elk: my 1.8 l, bj 03 (good 70.000km, almost all motorway) makes noise in the engine room. the magnet switch for the variable valve control (the device for the adjustment of the camshaft – so the friendly one), has been changed. the noise is still there. now the mechanics should be changed for this – i.e. my half motor should be taken apart. Nicely I should pay for the then not defective part anyway. does someone have similar problems – is this perhaps a serial error? thank tex P.S.: Oh yes, does anyone know how expensive the fun for the friendly elsprechstund can be???

Moin together, my 2004 2.0t is actually still very good together. But since the spare parts supply is getting thinner so slowly, I wonder if I should put another loader on reserve. Have now 235 Mm down. Since a long time I hear the loader cry a bit, which was not the case at the beginning. My screwdriver said that that was no problem at all. Does anyone know that, since someone has experience with it? Second question: I have a hearing-able roar at such 120 km/h in the 5th gear. I could imagine that at the rear engine bearing, which is quite close to the exhaust, the rubber has become quite hard. Does it bring something to make that new? That part is fortunately still available, and because I would like to drive my little elk as a second car as long as possible, I would invest one or the other.