Category: Volvo S40, V40 Forum

Good morning dear people, on Saturday morning 1 week ago, when we wanted to go on vacation with him, I noticed at the check that the battery was badly deformed (expanded) and the plus pole was extremely hot in idle mode with switched on climate. Battery cursed, new built-in, but unfortunately the same phenomenon: In idle without switched on consumers the plus pole becomes hot, however, so that one can still touch it. With switched on climate and/or more consumers it becomes so hot that one can not touch it for more than 2 seconds without burning itself. Isolation still ok. We are glad not to have remained with a cable fire in the South of France and have started the adventure third in the Fiesta, which has fulfilled its service well. Now the V40 (1.8 122 hp from 2001, 212,000km camshaft adjustment defective, tooth belts and engine storage due, ventilation windshield blows into the dashboard) and I think about it for the first time… well.

Hello together, I have the following problem with my Volvo V40. DATA: Bj 1996 140 HP 2.0 l 16V I bought and picked up the car the other day with a friend, the car had a transmission damage according to the previous owner. I bought an automatic transmission via EBay and built it in perfectly, but the error is still present. The transmission always confuses the gears, (such as starting in the 3-speed) so I looked for a workshop in the hope that they could help me further. They closed the car to the PC but could not read the error, reason: Man does not come via the control unit into the transmission control, which is actually not normal. So they have brought me the car Resetet but of course not so much. My question is, why does the car switch into a mess and why can you not get through the control unit into the automatic tribe ???? I would be very happy if someone can lighten me. MFG

Hello. Had there been my v40 1.8 16v bj.96 for sale with 144,000 km. Does anyone know what you can take for it? At 133 tkm was made: timing belts belt vo.re. transverse handlebars hi. re. new brake caliper oil change new oil filters and spark plugs brake fluid change new exhaust from kat. At 142 tkm was made: front and rear new shock absorbers including spring plates and dome bearings vo. Li. transverse handlebars new axle sleeve new vo. and hi. all coupling bars new new track rod AND heads new set a set of nail-new all-year tires of NEXEN track and crash. Kat new.The vehicle stands on 195 55 r15 all-year tires on Borbet aluminium rims. P No rust. Engine and gearbox running TOP. In the next time there should be no problems – everything has already been made.

Hello, I’ve been driving a Volvo S40 BJ 2001 for about 2 years with currently 115,000km and AT gear. A quite reliable car but since recently it doesn’t start so clean, sometimes turns a little longer until it starts up, feels somehow powerless. After it has lit it briefly clacks and then the clacking is immediately gone. Battery, LiMa and spark plugs are new. Then I wanted to travel and after a piece of uphill under fully lit the oil pressure lamp. To the right ran, car immediately turned off, 5 min. later continued and oil pressure lamp again. Called the breakdown service which has read out the fault memory, but stood only camshaft sensor, he meant nothing to do with it. Then I drove home and with the second car. After I was back I read here again and I got on the oil trap as a possible cause, since when the open oil filling plugs was available even at higher revolutions I didn’t have a vacuum. In addition, have formed deposits on the lid. Then I bought all the necessary parts and had to get rid of the old oil. Now I had to look at the oil trap and have a good taste?

Hello dear friends at MotorTalk! When I started the engine at -13° degrees tomorrow at 6:50 am, the engine was still on P and the engine was running very slowly. As if he had just hibernated. While driving I noticed that he didn’t give immediately what I gave by pedal. Everything was really slow, he didn’t want. OK, the engine of my V40 couldn’t do as it wanted because it was very cold. I don’t know it so, but after many minutes it ran as always. You just have to give him a lot of time! Battery charging every month is important!

Hello, with my Volvo both headlights fall sporadically during the ride. If I then hit the dashboard / light switch from below with my hand, they turn on again. I already changed the light switch, however, there was no improvement. If I turn the light on and off at the switch, it goes again. Sometimes, however, only with more attempts. If I travel faster on the highway at night and then suddenly the light runs out, my heart slips into my pants every time, because absolute blind flight. Unfortunately, I could not stop until now and see if the rear lights don’t go. Did this problem ever have anyone? I am really perplexed. My Volvo is a S40 year 2002, 1.8 B4184S2 Dear greetings and thank you already for any answers.

I mounted a trailer coupling on my Volvo V40 about a year ago. My property entrance is relatively high and steep. And the V40 has a relatively long overhang from the rear axle to the rear. That’s how it comes that, when it comes to load or with the trailer, the trailer coupling crashes over the ground in my driveway. I would like to put the car 3 to 4 cm higher in the back. How can it be done the easiest and cheapest way? My idea would be to simply mount an additional rubber ring over the rear axle spring. So of the original simply an additional one. However, I have no idea if this fits. And how does this affect the axle geometry?

Hi people. Actually, I just wanted to remove an ugly rust spot on the fender … After the dismantling of the left wing I saw that was the extent. I also took down the threshold covering. Luckily only the area in front of the door was affected. The right fender is immediately renewed as this also starts to bloom.. Does anyone know if it can do anything to seal the wheelhouse ? The fender is fixed to the bottom with 2 screws. But there is no opening where water or dirt can get out .. What is the big foam wedge. ? Just for sound insulation ? Would thank you for useful information since Friday the new fenders arrive.

Good day, I have a problem when switching. The gears can only be used with a lot of power very hard when the engine is warm, in cold condition they go in nicely soft. I recently replaced the clutch, Stabi bearing, wheel bearing, beech from the shiftbar, engine oil and gear oil (Liqui Moly 75W80 GL5). Since then the problem exists. If the gear does not go in and I press, bite down from the clutch and it crashes in at once. Often they go in even when I release the clutch and press again. Otherwise only with a lot of force. What could that be? Volvo S40 BJ 00 1,9 Di 70kW

Moin, have the following problem built in new seats here however the plugs 0 fit each other, because completely other. Then I only had problems now I “framed” back and made the leather covers on my old frames. Now I have unfortunately missing 2 plugs on the passenger seat and I have to know how the cables belong to each other already tried out 1x but when reading out the friendly has turned out that it was probably not right. Now I would try on this way if someone had a problem already or maybe just take a look under his seat can look the plug assignment and post here? (my seats have Whips (not electric) SIPS (electrical) seat heating and a buckle recognition) Now still the 4 cables which have to be brought together. From the car following cables come a cable in black with white stroke, orange with white line and another blue with black stroke, white with black line from the seat goes from a cable with brown, blue filled in an orange cover (SIPS) and another one with black line (from orange)