Category: Volvo S40, V40 Forum

Hi I took over a V 40 1.9 DIESEL 116 hp from my parents. So today I was on the road with a slight humidity, the car started swimming at Temo 130 / 140. That was as if I had been on the road with my 95 polo. When I looked at the tyres at home I was a little surprised. 185 /65 R 15 According to the registration, this is exactly the hair.There is 185/65R15 82H. Now my question. What is the optimal summer tyres for this vehicle?

Hello! Volvo V40, 1.8 85KW, year 98 With my V40 I noticed with the falling temperatures that the coolant temperature indicator fluctuates. The engine became (feeled) warm in normal time, however, the temperature pointer fluctuated downhill during longer rides and finally also in flat terrain with moderate load of the engine. This pointed for me to an age-weak thermostat. So it was changed fixed and immediately the cooling liquid renewed. The ventilated was as follows: Fill up coolant, heat up fully, let the engine warm up, with lack of coolant pouring down, drive a few kilometers and let the engine run until the switch on the cooler fan. Motor out, let cool down and refill again. Since then the coolant level has not changed any more. Since then the engine is only slowly warm. On the road I get it on about 1/4 of the scale, in the town of the manufacturer in traffic jam the display rises then to 1/2. On the Auotbahn it also rises to 1/2. In this position it remains then too. The thermostat can vary slowly?

Hello, last year I broke the rotary knob of my light switch on my V40 (1.8 16V 115PS BJ97) This also got bridged with a screwdriver so that my light and instruments were also on. And the other day the lighting of the tachos only went on in the case of a light, but not when my light was on. And I just can’t find the light switch unit to buy. Maybe someone can help me. I put a photo on the switch I’m looking for. It’s important that he has 2 connections for cables. I can only find the one from later series.

Hello Holland elk fans, I don’t understand something: My elk (B4184S, 115 Ps, hand switch) does 200 km/h (on the speedometer), but the speedometer then shows 5000 rpm, although the engine would have to achieve a higher speed. More revolutions just don’t….but the red range starts at 6500… Or can my car just not turn in 5th gear anymore?

Hello Volvo driver, since recently I drive my first Volvo, a v40 1.8 from the end of 2000, phase II. A remote control before the ZV was not there. I want to upgrade an FB soon, however, nobody could tell me if there was an ex factory, or if the remote controls only “disappeared”. On request at the I was offered a FB to learn (new or needed was no matter), but I should first find out if a corresponding control unit is available. So far I have read here about the search only that the control unit is probably under the cover in the driver’s footroom. Is this also placed there at Phase II or do I have to look elsewhere? Thank you already! Greetings from Nuremberg

Hello! Unfortunately I had to find out that my seat heating on the driver’s side no longer works, neither seat nor backrest. I looked at the manual once, the seat heating seems to have only one safety for driver and passenger side, so I excluded the safety. Where could the error lie? Until 2 weeks ago it still ran perfectly. I have a poor measuring device available, but should be enough for approximate measurements if I have to check something. Thank you in advance Greeting Stefan

Hello together. I’ve been having the problem for a few days that my engine doesn’t start badly, especially when it’s cold. I have to hold on to the ignition key for quite a long time so that it fights to start. Then it sounds like a trecker and it seems that at least 1 cylinder doesn’t start. After it’s on, I stop the speed a little under 2000 until all cylinders run. So it takes 5 seconds… So now I’ve read out the error memory with Tourque Pro: -Cylinder #1 Misfire Detected -Multiple Misfire Detected Engine Control then flashes at first and lights up constant after a few seconds until I clear the memory again. So I wasn’t bad with my guess of the wrong ignitions… Now my question… I’d probably get a new ignition coil. Only which one? Have two of these or does someone else have any other solution suggestions?

Hello Elch municipality. Today I have overcome the clutch pedal and the encoder cylinder to expand and check. I ordered in advance the 2 sockets of plastic to have them at hand at the reperature. The only bad thing about the action is the bolt that fixes the pedal. This was plugged in with me from the brake pedal. It can only be pulled out/fumbled if you release the pedal holder to turn it a little bit. Then the bolt goes out. When assembled I put it on the other side. ..On the encoder cylinder only 2 nuts must be removed from the two wires. and of course the bolt must be removed from the pedal. Encoder cylinder disassembled and cleaned. Stottle holder greased on the piston. Sockets on the pedal bolt changed. All mechanical connections greased. Clutch vented. Tool: 11 muzzles,13er,15er,17er, side cutter, brake cleaner. Some fat, about 1/2 litre brake fluid. . Time about 2h. Result : Super soft and troubleless coupling.

Hello Have a 2002 Volvo V40 2L Turbo with 163hp. In the cold state you can hear the hydro-pump cores, but then give up after a short time. Think that these are finished. Where can I find the suitable ones? Skandix offers nothing. Do I need to change the shocks special tool, or do the camshafts have to be out? I’m from the compartment but my active screwdriver time is already something… Thank you very much..

Hello together, then I also hope to turn to the round, maybe someone can help. My elk has been ticking for a few weeks, and the problem seems to be getting bigger. Scenario 1: From moderate speed to slow down to the stand. Engine starts to jerk at < 1500 rpm and goes straight out in the stand. Scenario 2: When driving in the middle speed range suddenly power loss, engine rucksacks, does not take gas and pulls a fairly steam flag from the exhaust behind it. Sometimes the error has disappeared abruptly again (can only be a short "Ruckler), in other cases I have to let the car roll out, engine goes out. The engine leaves itself in both scenarios flagless and quite normal again as if nothing had been done. Engine control light goes on. I have now worried about an OBD2 tester. Error memory:P0107 Absolute or barometric intake air pressure circuit too low voltageP0131 Lambdasonde circuit to low voltage (bank 1 sensor 1)P0172 mixture to fat (bank 1) But I can't imagine the whole thing happened again.