Category: Volvo S60 2, V60, S80 2, V70 3, XC70 2, XC60 Forum

Hello together On my last visit, I had the air conditioning/vaporator re-venting function activated. But now I noticed that after turning off the vehicle you don’t hear a re-venting or a blower. Also not a few minutes later. Can someone tell me if this can be heard at all and if so, how many minutes later after turning off the vehicle the re-venting starts? Not that it doesn’t work for me at all. I finally paid for it. D The friendly one would have to check that again.

Dear S80/V70-driver, with my S80 D5, BJ 2007 (185 HP) there is a winter tyre change and I ask for some experience in the round, which tires you are riding with. I will buy the dimension 225/50 r17. Currently Nokian WRA3 is on it, which I have experienced as rather uncomfortable hard at channel cover & Co. However, it can also be due to their age (Dot 13). Good wet braking – or aquaplaning properties. And also suspension comfort. Snowgrip is not so important to me. important because I live in the Austrian lowlands and have hardly ever experienced snow on the road. According to previous researches come into the short selection Conti TS 850P Vredestein Wintrac Pro Pirelli Sottozero 3. But let me teach you better. Thank you in advance and best regards, Pordagos

Hello all, for a few weeks now I have my brand new V70 (MY 2014 Facelift) and I’m very happy! It’s a D4 with automatic transmission and start stop automatic. If I’m now driving at a red traffic light, I slow down to get to a stop. However, the start stop automatic shuts off the engine before the vehicle comes to an absolute standstill. Means: the V70 rolls still lightly while I brake and the engine goes off! This leads to a mer If you have the same experience or advice? Maybe you can set the start stop automatic so that the engine actually runs out when the car no longer rolls? Otherwise, it starts up perfectly again: easy to release the foot from the brake pedal and the engine is back again! Thank you Ellore

Hello everybody, after my V70II T5 somehow only bothers me, I would be interested in a more modern and “simple” engine without a turbo. Unfortunately only the 2.0 comes into question with the IIIer. I have already read that the engine of Ford and is supposed to be quite sluggish, is both true? Can one drive the engine nevertheless many kilometers without big zigzags? Last question: Who drives nen 2.0 and has had already had a trailer on it? Does the engine do that halfway? Many greetings from the Swede

My V70 has to go to the workshop immediately! Quotation: “As part of quality controls, a limited number of vehicles of the V70 series of the model years 2011 to 2015 have been found that under certain specific driving conditions (roads with heavy load, high acceleration or high driving speed), an increased engine temperature can occur immediately after cold start and at cold outside temperatures. The increased engine temperature can lead to an oil loss, a smoke development and a fire development in the engine compartment.” Does anyone know more? I found nothing about the search function. Are only the T4 or the gasoline engines affected in general? Or does it also affect the diesel? Will you report yourself when I have had the appointment. P.S. Since I just got a new power shift transmission a few months ago, the letter was quite suffocatingly commented by the OHL: “You h a great touch when buying your car”. But the Volvo has to show its strengths.

Relatively young (2012), a lot of long distance, well and regularly maintained at Volvo, good condition, great equipment. The dealer sells it on behalf of the customer. The XC60 has been nice to me for a long time, except for the high mileage fits everything. But can I drive the still 3-4 years and a good 100,000km further? Also mainly long distance. I am a bit unsure, what do the experts say here? I am happy about tips, experiences, hints! Greetings from Alexander The Ruhrpott

Moin together, I am looking for an XC60 – D3 or D4. Hope I am right here – the forum for purchase advice seems to be very general. My desired profile: – D3, D4 – switch or automatic – leather – up to max. 60.000 km – Navi, etc. – BJ gladly starting from FL 2014 – if necessary also 2013 – Budget: approx. 18.500 Can I find something reasonable with the budget – or would that be more lucky thing? Have found this for example:https://suchen.mobile.de/…/details.html?… Border, but a good ?!?! price. Or is the D3 with 150hp and Euro6 the better choice? Will the XC drive at least 4-5 years with about 20tsd KM/year. Thank you… Greetings from the North Frank

After some research I wanted to do something good for my MJ2009 Volvo V70 2.4 D Ocean Race 163PS and clean the intake channels a bit. The reason for this was the sporadic bagging of the speed when rolling out and braking before traffic lights at idle speed to approx. 500 rpm-1. Only after complete standstill the speed then increases again to approx. 750 rpm-1. I dismantled the throttle flap and cleaned it with Liqui Moly Diesel system cleaner. I have to say that I have such an aggressive Without advertising, I was very surprised by the effect. So I was able to bring the throttle flap back to high gloss in the developed condition and reassemble it with the old metal seal. In the same train I dismantled the LMM and cleaned it with a brake cleaner, as far as I got there despite the lattice. I cleaned the AGR valve in the built-in condition with cleaner and toothbrush as far as possible. I was able to fix this with a self-made clamp (similar to a threaded clamp for sheet metal or flat plastics) in a clean and freely movable manner. I thought that this error should not occur with the engine any more, as it was optimized? Then the car was driven to operating temperature and half LiquiMoly stuff was sprayed into the air system after the LMM at increased speed. Together with the fuelling of the Fzg. with Diesel Ultimate, I hardly recognize the Volvo. It gains increasing power, especially on the track beyond the 120km/h. So far – so good. Now to the problem: If I want to accelerate from the slightly underrun partial load for a overtaking process or e.g. after the end of a 70km/h limit, the engine unfolds at exactly 80km/h, whether in 5th or 6th gear at about 1500 rpm-1 after a short turbo memory customer, for me until It’s not possible to get out of the car. It’s not possible to get out of the car. It’s not possible to get out of the car. It’s not possible to get out of the car. It’s not possible to get out of the car. It’s impossible to get out of the car. It’s impossible to get out of the car. It’s impossible to get out of the car. It’s impossible to get out of the car. It’s impossible to get out of the car. It’s impossible to get out of the car. When recording with a cheap OBDII device and a smartphone app, it is noticeable that the airflow increases with increasing acceleration and then suddenly falls back to a constant value of 40 (I don’t know the unit now) at the moment of the “emergency run” until the emergency run is out again. Another clean-up after about 1 week with the other half of the LM cleaner took place outside of A little more power no change of the error. Apparently the stuff seems to solve something really, because during the process the car then reported that the DPF was full. A half-hour cleaning drive at higher speeds allowed the error to be extinguished again. Also the reset of the ECUs, AGR system etc. by nightly disconnection of the battery brought no change. For me this makes no sense. Before the cleaning the Fahler has not been there. Now the engine seems to be in a I would now have thought that a sensor would deliver false values or the turbo’s adjustment mechanism would depend on what happened with VW from time to time. I can imagine that in a certain speed range, the blades in the turbo would then be so “unfavorable” in the exhaust current angle that too high a charge pressure would be set up here. Is it a charging pressure regulator, right?

Dear Forum members, Although the change of hydraulic fluid of my V70 has brought improvement, but unfortunately not the TOP result. Now I have the new pump (aftermarket spotcheig) lying here and wanted to listen, has someone already done that alone on the farm/garage/rent workshop and can report about it? I have looked at the whole thing once on ramps, and from below you can hardly get to the pump. probably the removal only, with decrease of the right wheel, remove the wheelhouse shell and removal of the 2 V-belts? From above you get to the two hoses as well as the 3 nuts that hold the pump. Is the thought course right? I thank you for your input, would like to make it as inexpensive as possible. New hydraulic fluid as well as nuts, 2 belts and the small green seal are already here. It greets CZEA1989

Moin Gemeinde, my V70 T4, EZ 11/2011, will soon fill up the 175,000 km. So far I am well satisfied with it. The only major damage was the replacement of the Powershift transmission shortly after the purchase in 2016 at around 86,000 km. The cost of 5,500 € has taken over the guarantee insurance. In the last almost three years I captured three sheet metal damages, which were only partially repaired. Around 8,000 € net insurance compensation is already on the savings book. In January, the large inspection with timing belt change is scheduled for €1,200. In March and September, a total of €1,100 VAT refunds from the above mentioned sheet metal damages expire. In November, we go to TÜV (renewing the chassis parts?). And the power shift transmission also doesn’t always turn back. Everything would be a good time for a change of vehicle. Even the OHL can make friends with it. As a Volvo, only the V70 is eligible (V60 I to small, V90 too big, V60 II still too expensive; budget approx. 20,000 €). Otherwise it runs out on Mercedes C-Class (if the space is enough) or VW Passat. I like to drive gasoline, but you have to look for it with the magnifying glass. From the last years of construction only the D4 VEA comes into question. Does the exchange make sense? Better repair the T4? What would you do?