Category: Volvo S60 2, V60, S80 2, V70 3, XC70 2, XC60 Forum

Last Friday I bought a used V70 (D5 Momentum, EZ 06/2011, 160.000 km, 232 hp / 171 kW Heico, TÜV until 09.2017) with warranty and 1 year warranty. I have noticed 3 things negatively up to now: 1. If I drive straight ahead, the steering wheel is wrong. Not much, but it bothers me. If I let go of the steering wheel briefly, the car drives straight ahead and does not pull over to one side. I suspect that the steering wheel has already been dismantled and not just mounted. The dealer knows nothing about it. 2. The driver’s side door handle is poorly open, even when compared to the other door handles. Is it done here with a bit of silicone spray, as the dealer suggests? 3. The crossbar shakes at full impact. After 162,000 km probably not unusual. How high are the costs here and on what should be do I respect? Best regards

I first read on the internet that you should bring the oil yourself. In advance I got an offer from a second workshop. Previous workshop: approx.12€ incl. filter other workshop: approx.150€ incl. filter then had to be done with my previous one, but then cost 173€! 96€ for 5.7litre oil! Motor is the D3 D5204T3

Hello! Everyone certainly knows the speed deviations with his car, which has used an external navigator. I haven’t experienced a car yet, at which the speed is only approximately the same as the speedometer indicator. Also from factory, independent of tyres etc. With our V60 it is constant 5 km/h, another factory commutes between 9 and 12 km/h or e.g. 7 with a Galaxy. Always under the display well noticed, therefore of course no drama. Has someone already dealt with it, there are at the Volvo dealer the possibility to adjust here? Shouldn’t be witchcraft I think. Otherwise I found tools such as the Speedohealer, which makes little sense if the workshop does this quickly. And I don’t like to install any foreign components, because it is also not worth time/money.

Hello Forum participants, Are you familiar with the V70’s climate compressor, if necessary the other series? What is it about: I had the V70 D3/D4 change the climate compressor at my Volvo workshop with 145 000 km from 2012 in the fall of 2023, as the existing compressor gave off loudly audible noise during operation. Diagnosis Warehouse damage/compressor coupling. That’s exactly how I don’t know anymore. The system has cooled until the end. The new compr after about 10000 km in September 2024, i.e. after a year, similar noises were made. The Volvo workshop has no explanation for this, but changed the compressor to bulancy and everything was good again. So, and now, at the end of December 2024 after not even 3000 km, the bulance compressor also starts to make noises. That can / must not be… What is going on here? Are you familiar with such phenomena? Does anyone have comparable experiences? Are the spare parts possibly. repaired old parts of the Volvo installed there? Maybe one or the other of you has something to say or write about it. I thank you in advance for the trouble.

Hey! Since we got a little daughter this summer, my girlfriend and I have finally decided to buy a car. It will be my first car (I am 36J, have had my driver’s license since 18, but always lived in the city and have never had to have a car of my own). I am therefore completely inexperienced in buying a car. I have already fallen in love with the V70, but in this case I hate to let my heart decide. l on the topic of “V70 used cars” are relatively outdated. So the question still arises for me: Is the V70 actually worth the money, or should I rather give another used car a chance (e.g., the A4 or A6 as a combi)? My search criteria: – Combi – year of construction from 2008 – mileage up to 200,000 (but must easily create min. 10,000km a year) – Price: Max. 7,000€ (but ideally rather around 6,000€) – As rare as possible to have to go to the workshop The engine of the V70 70 is supposed to be indestructible. But, as I got along, the car is not exactly free of quirks.What would you advise: Is it possible to get something neat for the price? What should I pay special attention to? Private or dealer? Diesel or petrol? 1.6, 2.0, 2.4? Kinetic, Momentum, Summum? Or yet another car: Audi A4/A6, VW Gold/Passat, Skoda Octavia? I live in Berlin, but would be willing to make a small trip out of it if the right car gets ready. A – 1.6 Summum (150.000km, 6,500€): https://www.autoscout24.de/…/…ed6f-dcc3-7e4c-e053-e250040af826?… – D5 Momentum (150.000km, 6,95€): https://www.autoscout24.de/…/…310d-af6b-4740-b5b1-2535d44596d7?… – 2.4 D5 Momentum (130.000km, 6,500€) https://suchen.mobile.de/…/details.html?… – 2.4 Momentum (193,000km, 6,190€): https://www.autoscout24.de/…/72d1-8895-4a71-a35c-cd23bbbd9b4a?… – 2.4 Kinetic (161,000km, 6.990€ – the leather color is however a bit fierce): https://suchen.mobile.de/…/details.html?… I know: Very, very many questions! But I would only be grateful to you for the shortest answer Best regards and a nice start to the WE!

Hello, I have an Xc60 without traffic sign detection , especially the current speed limits I miss very see attachment was sure that there were 70 on the off I wouldn’t ask at all but in NL we noticed that the danger points are displayed in the Senus, with the corresponding limitation shield. This should therefore be stored in the software, as is the case with our little Garmin Nüvi for example. or is there an update to make this possible? Greetings Martin

…I was interested today at a Volvo dealer and I got into a Volvo XC60 D4 Ocean Race from 2015 with 124,000km (click, mobile-inserate) gucked… should cost the good piece unnegotiated. Award 18.800,-€. The only thing I still had to retrofit would be a trailer coupling… I looked at all incl. (E-set) 300,-€ for a rigid and around 500,- for a removable, I would assemble myself, like I did with my Since my old V50 2.0D summum from 2004 still drives perfectly without DPF with now 304,000km, but still something has come into the years – “repaired”, except for a few optical flaws no open construction sites, I am hard to think about whether this would be the opportunity to replace it. What do you think of the XC60? Is there something to consider especially ala e.g. timing belt interval, susceptible things to the model / engine variant ?

Moin, in January we get offspring No. 2, and the Ford Ka+ is only enough as a second car at best. I have kept an eye on the ff. V60 D3:https://suchen.mobile.de/…/details.html?… The equipment likes, price and performance seem to fit me. I would be interested to know if there are points that I absolutely have to check during the visit. a) Are there model-specific signs that I prefer to leave my fingers off the car? b) Are there little things that you can do well? The ff. points have I already on my question list: ? Info about the previous owner? ? ?? representative car? ? ?? leasing resetters? ? ? private leasing, business reading? ? check booklet, maintained in the contract workshop? ? What does the warranty include? mobility guarantee ? ? oil consumption between intervals ? ? oil change each after 30

Yesterday I bought my V60 a set of new winter complete wheels (Hera 16″ 215/55R16 with Nokian WR D4) and installed them today. I was of course prepared for the RDK to report because it is hardly to be expected that the tyre pressure corresponds to the calibrated value of my summer tyres. That was also the case. So far so good. At the tank first before calibrating the air pressure all around. All tyres had 2.9 bar. 2,4 or 2,8 bar have – depending on whether under or over 160 km/h is driven, or depending on the load. Why are finished wheels delivered with 2,9 bar ? Please don’t misunderstand. I don’t want to cause a storm in the water glass here, but find that strange. Apart from that: How do you handle this with the tyre pressure ? I am currently driving around with 2,6 bar. So as a compromise between safety and driving comfort, since I am currently driving neither full pipe (now with the Wi nterreifen would be anyway at 210 end), still use the payload fully. Complementary question: Do you drive your winter tires with pressure other than the summer tires?

Hello dear Elche friends! I swung. Mostly in the morning after getting up 🙂 And now between a Volvo purchase or foreign factory. I drove two Volvos test today: a V70 D3 from 2015 and a V70D5 from 2011. Kilometerwise the two V70s have run under 150 tkm: D3 currently 90 tkm, the D5 138 tkm. The D3 is the four-cylinder with 150 hp. The D5 is the 2.5 liter with 215 hp. From the profile the older D5 is more in question, since this is an AWD model and 200 kg more pull. a total of 2000 kilos. Since I pull a heavy horse trailer at least every two months, traction goes above all else. In addition, the 200 kilos more provide for a little more reserves. Basic question: I have already read a lot about problems with the D3/D5 engines. Sometimes it is a creeping coolant loss, sometimes there are problems with the AWD drive. Both vehicles have been groomed (Volvo), the older vehicle even gets a 1-year warranty. The “new” V olvo” is only a guarantee from the dealer. Are both not Volvo dealers! Can the D5 AWD be bought without hesitation or should one rather refrain from it. The price difference is the two 4000 Euro. Or bite into the sour apple and take a star (T-model E,Class CDI 220)? Thanks and greetings, Heide