Category: Volvo S60 2, V60, S80 2, V70 3, XC70 2, XC60 Forum

Hello, I need your advice or your assessment / experience about the XC70 D5 AWD: I’m an absolute newcomer in terms of Volvo. I’m looking for a Volvo XC70 and I’m still swarming back and forth between the first generation (BJ 2004-6/2007) or the second gene (from 2007-2009). Don’t need a lot of snappy equipment, and just want a heightened combination with all-wheel and high-quality materials that I can drive for a long time. 30k a year. The question is, would you rather say that the older models have better / higher-quality materials installed (i.e. motor / gears etc.) or are there almost no differences between 1. & 2. Gen? Find price-wise they give almost nothing if you want to spend around the 5-8T€ so you can find from 220T km which are in the price class. The consumption should be even lower for the older ones, which is noticeable on any case also at 30Tkm a year. Would you be happy if you could give me some tips / advice Alex!

Hello, thank you so much for your time to read this text and maybe help me. it’s about an XC70 model 2011 AWD D5 good equipment (consumers are meant) etc. Stand heater, which is hardly used and not at all in the last months. The vehicle was built for the Swedish market and has a permanent evening light, which can not be impressed with the running engine by the switch position of the light 0, I, II. In principle no problem and over the years became a habit. – In 09/2018 a Hyperbolis 90AH starter battery was installed, seems to have been the first exchange, – In 04/2019 was carried out by technical workshop tire change, vehicle had to be taken off, – until 02/2021 no messages about battery condition were shown, – 02/2021 vehicle jumps at -12C normal and remains after approx. 15m. Several start attempts are still successful, but the car basically does not move any more and then gives me ruffled up. – 02/2021 exchange of the battery against a Varta Silver Dynamic 85AH has not been installed and rehearted on the battery. In case of the battery has already been taken a good time.

Moin together, I’d like to know if you had or have had a problem with your Volvos due to the negative degree. For example, my electric tailgate is currently spinning. If I open the moose, the tailgate will open at the same time. Then I want to close it, but it always opens. I have now taken out the corresponding fuse in the trunk and now wait for thaw weather. My friend thinks that there is something frozen and I should wait until the frosty temperatures are over and then everything should funnel again. I think my next Volvo will no longer have an electric flap in the back. ) Many greetings and remains healthy, Michael

Hello, after a long time I have again a problem with my V70 D5 my09. The faithful companion has unfortunately hung out the rod of the swirl flap independently, which is not the biggest problem. However, the friendly of course wanted to sell a new swirl flap for limp 800€ ?? For the suspended rod there is yes ne reperatur solution for little money, however, he has in the area of the swirl flap also some oil tracks which according to volvo are quite bad, but according to my workshop of trust only oil residues from undertouring or short distances drive. I now have to admit that unfortunately because our city car was in total damage and my wife of the often short distance was on the road. From the oil I attach to you a photo and it would be nice if you could say your opinion about it. Car has now 170tkm down. I arrived soon the tooth change is there and I wanted to look at it all. Thanks in advance!

today, both in the morning and in the evening when driving home, the start/stop did not go – with the sensus argument “battery is charged – when charging the battery the start/stop automatic does not work” – so as far as I know, we ALWAYS charge the battery until it is full – now the SENSUS could only express itself unwisely in this case and in reality think the battery is too weak – but I wonder, of what should it have become empty? – had neither short distances, nor light drives and in the bad weather partly even the AC off… – did you have that already?

Greetings municipality. For a tour to Sweden I wanted to build more headlights on my moose. With the TÜV I have already talked about the conditions. But what could not tell me is the reference number of my headlights. In total I can not come over 100 in D. Does any of you know? Should there be on the headlights but which one is it with me?

Hello, I own a Volvo XC 60 since end of October 2018, built in 2016 D3 Summum, 2,0 diesel engine, in the time with 16,000 km, until now I have driven another 10,000 km. The problem is, for a few days, in which there is an unusual sound, so I haven’t heard it until recently. The first time I heard it was for a few days. Sometimes it sounds like a few minutes when I start driving, after it was started another time, so it’s not the same time, and if I blow it moan or louder, it stays longer, and when I leave it, it hears just like I entered the video into the roundabout and normally lowers the speed to 40. I tried to see if it’s only standing on the spot with a running engine or speeding up, but nothing, just on the move. What is this? This is my video =} https://youtu.be/VIbGBJB4w7c And here someone with the same problem.

Moinsen, we have the vehicles mentioned in the thread title and are very surprised by the considerable deviations in the route. The route is according to Google maps 431,2 KM long. So far we have removed 12 identical journeys; each car six. My car, the XC60, arrives at 431,1 to 432,0 KM. My wife’s car, V60 2, shows after the identically driven route 443,2 to 445,9 KM. We have observed this phenomenon again and again and we are slowly worried about it. So far we have not been with the friendly one, but we consider it. The deviations occurred with both summer and winter bikes. So it can’t be that. Can something be “adjusted”? Thank you for tips.

Hello together. I have a change of vehicle in the next 6-12 months. Actually it was clear that there was a 5s again on the 5s, but honestly I am not really convinced of the F10, so we are looking for alternatives. I also came up with Volvo, more precisely on the V70. A little research with Dr. Google has shown that there is the V70 of course with petrol engines and diesels, but also as a flexi fuel for E85. According to Wikipedia there is no longer a Bi-Fuel version for the Type24. Now I have found on mobile.de but various vehicles with Bi-Fuel. Click me. So I would like the car very much. Low fuel costs and sufficient power without the disadvantages of a diesel. But supposedly there is no such thing as the car, and I could not find any tests or driving reports on the motorization anywhere. Are the vehicles converted by the dealer, or did they have to be a Bi-Fuel factory after all? What do you have to pay attention to the engine?

Hi, I just experienced something really crazy. I could “take” my winter bikes from the Evoque to the XC60, Pirelli Scorpion were raised. When changing the wheels (summer to winter) my tire fuzzi noticed that the tires had been pulled up against the running direction on two wheels. But he himself screwed up and I drove around with these flaps a winter (2014-15). He pressured around so a bit and then the tires were mounted again properly. I have now the two wheels on the rear axle (new one in front) and it polishes like stupid. Was already twice balanced out, without improvement. From about 100 the axle starts to hobble. I assumed to him that this comes from a season “wrong around” so that the profile is damaged…. entered silence… Saturday I get new tires, but I will not pay him completely, because the old ones would have kept 1-2 winters. Question to the community: sometimes apart from security aspects (you don’t even think about it!) – because of the damage!