Category: Volvo S60 2, V60, S80 2, V70 3, XC70 2, XC60 Forum

Tach put together, have now my S60 several weeks and 7,000 km, the grin somehow does not want to go away…. I now made the 30 Tkm full and am somewhat irritated while looking at the front tyres. There is no more profile there, at the end of this summer is probably end in the terrain. At the back it looks much better. Up to 23,000 km the car has run by the way as a rental car, but is in a top condition and not ridden down. I am not the rocket starter with regard to an affordable consumption, but always notice when the turbo comes. Can it be that the D3 is a little more gnawing at the front tire because of its luxuriant torque than my blissful S40 2.4?? Greetings from the Bergische, Ralph

Hello, now it’s time for another car with the following wishes: increased sitting position, automatic, xenon, automatic air conditioning and gasoline. Now, at the weekend at our Volvo dealer the above mentioned car came to my eye and is really busy. Now I have questions about questions as Volvo layer. XC60 is running year 2008, 70,000 km, fully equipped, should cost 29.500,- €. – Consumption in city and highway so at 140 km/h? – Are there known problems on the engine or body? – What is the installed original navigation system and which map status is up to date? – How high are the inspection costs? – Price appropriate? – What do you have to pay attention to when driving a test drive? Thank you for your help! Greetings TiD

My current Audi A3 1.6 TDI 105 hp consumes approx. 5.2 l to 100 km. A little more (7.0 – 7.5 l) the successor should consume and be a bit more frugal when overtaking it. According to previous research, XC60, XC70, V70 automatic and S80 automatic consume too much (more than 8.0 l lt. fuel monitor). The 163 hp diesel fall out, as not significantly faster than the A3. The V70 also weighs 100 kg more like the S80. So I tend to the S80 215 hp hand switch. a.) Does anyone from the practice have experience what it consumes? b.) 215 hp and front drive – does the grip? c.) 215 hp and hand-operated switch at all – does this work harmoniously? Alternatively, I think about a VW Passat 2.0 TDI 170 DSG Allrad or an Audi A4 3.0 TDI hand-receiver 204 hp.

Hello people Is there someone here in the forum who owns a vehicle with the configuration Premium Sound + SUB? The models V70, XC70 and XC60 2012-2017 with Sensus are meant. (with the V60, S60 and S80 this configuration did not exist) I would like to retrofit a Volvo amplifier with SUB (have bought the parts again). My problem is that Volvo cannot play the necessary software on the amplifier because my vehicle is not supported. This is only possible with vehicles that have been delivered ex factory with Premium Sound. There it is easy to start the “AUD reload”. If someone wants to support me in such an action please report me. Of course, there is also a fee compensation. Thanks now!

Hello community! I experience my V60 this summer for the first time with laminated glass…. At outside temperatures of 26 degrees it has almost 40 degrees inside. Sure – the car is standing in the sun and the heat is clearly “stored”, but in my V50 with “normal and not noise-insulated” glass the temperature was by far not as intense as now in the V60! I also noticed that cleaning the windows inside with a glass cleaner does nothing. I cleaned my windows inside with a glass cleaner on the weekend and then noticed on Monday that the windows all have streaks. As a result I took a wet cloth and a clean cloth today and cleaned the windows -> Result: no streaks! This is also a clear difference to the V50 with normal glass (here I could only clean with glass cleaner and not with a wet cloth!). Do the two points have something to do with the laminated glass and the texture?

Since yesterday, I’ve had a good time in the middle of the day, but I’ve had a good time in the middle of the day, I’ve had a good time in the middle of the day, I’ve had a good time in the middle of the day, I’ve had a good time in the middle of the day, I’ve had a good time in the middle of the day, I’ve had a good time in the middle of the day, I’ve had a good time in the middle of the day, I’ve had a good time in the middle of the day, I’ve had a good time in the middle of the day, I’ve had a good time in the middle of the day, I’ve had a good time in the middle of the day, I’ve had a good time in the middle of the day, I’ve had a good time in the middle of the day.

The second thing I want to say is that I’m in the old Audi store, and I have a `92 Audi 100 2.6 V6 limousine with H-mark as a daily and a `93 Audi Cabrio 2.8 V6. Until last summer there was also a Pontiac Trans Am 3.1 V6 in the car park. Now on my occasion. I’m in search of a large station wagon. As a Swedish fan and holidaymaker it should become a V70 III, because this vehicle is optically in this class most accommodating me. I myself am an automobile salesman, working daily with cars (commercially), I have already partially restored the Audi itself and thus basically know about the matter and can answer to old Audis and also Amis quasi (almost)? Only with Volvo I don’t know and so you come into the game 🙂 I’ve read a lot and know what I want. The basics: 70 2.5T, 231 PS, is more than anything else than automatic.

Hello to everyone, since I have never had a car with electric parking brake before, it was unclear to me how to proceed there. After which I searched for a long time and asked some people. I came to the conclusion that this is quite easy even without a diagnostic device. Unlock the parking brake and disassemble the wheel. Now the brake caliper can be unscrewed with the engine. After this is solved you can also reach the screws of the motor. Just unscrew them and carefully pull them off. Now you can turn the gear back with a corresponding torx and push the piston back with the tool (or a plier). Now the work can be done accordingly. If the engine is screwed again, don’t forget to treat the screws with bolt protection (I took Loctite 243). The same applies to the screws from the saddle, in the case of the reference set there are usually new screws with fuses. (but not for the motor screws). So and now much fun when screwing.

After the start of the engine, the Sensus always takes some time to drive up – which is indicated by the Iron Mark. However, if there is an obstacle in the way, the PDC turns on immediately – also when the return gear is inserted, the return camera. – at least mostly! And here we are at the problem: sometimes it happens that PDC and RFC just work after the Iron Mark is gone! – what I had to find out yesterday fatally again: engine start and return gear in – behind me in the parking lot a deep wooden stake, which can of course not be recognized in the rear view mirror – as well. – But PDC would have recognized it! Mindfully HÄTTE – then exactly when it needs it does not work – DOTZ and the protective plate docked at the wood fplock! Excellent – that can’t be true – of course – a few cm of the protective plate then scratched up again a little bit or. the upper layer already – so much on the topic of protection plate – what it has protected me now? even before the software error can not work – but the problem of the maximum speed!

Just put together a new XC70, which is to come in the autumn (this time with inscription equipment) and stand before the question, whether I order the already known and beloved level control with me or the Four-C chassis (which I have not yet experienced in action). I do not move a particularly heavy trailer and huge loads very rarely. Nevertheless, I always found the level control very pleasant when the hut was full. Does the Four-C chassis also contribute to the level control? Thank you for your advice.