Category: Volvo S60 2, V60, S80 2, V70 3, XC70 2, XC60 Forum

Hello, now I have to ask a modest question about the equipment. For a few weeks now I have been driving the XC70 MY2016 (10/2015) – as a used car. I’m quite satisfied :-). -Vehicle has driver assistance package – ACC and brake assistent – Pro – Driver Alert How can I now fix which version is installed. Or what can the assistant do? I’ve read a lot but am not sure. Emergency brakes in the city worked. I tested yesterday involuntarily. Puh. license plate recognition and Lane…. also works cruise on the highway with brake and drive and hold off also works great. What doesn’t work: For example, if I drive faster than 50 (without tempomat) the light organ blinks and horns though the car does not have to slow down to minimize a driving accident?. I guess that’s what I’ve been thinking about. Somewhat confusing. Thank you for your support.

Hello dear Volvo community I need your help. My father drives an XC60 from 2016, equipment line “Ocean Race”. Now it’s the case that I wanted to buy him new Xenon burners. Now there are differences – depending on whether the vehicle has Bi-Xenon or “normal” Xenon. 1. Can one of you tell from the picture which Xenon it is? 2. Does anyone know if there is a page where using the chassis number is possible to get the equipment list of the vehicle? Thanks E you in advance! Greetings

Hello forum, I have recently been on my V60 D2 (D4162T), BJ 2012, transmission MMT6, 250 000km predominantly long distance, the following problem: In driving mode without thrust I get a poltern / knock felt from the range engine compartment / front axle / exhaust system. i.e. if I give gas or am in thrust mode nothing is to be heard. If I walk on the level of the gas or the clutch kicks something knocks on each other. I had the following assumption: – Excluded / torn rubber suspension n on the exhaust system and/or defective/corroded holder – bearing Torque support defective/excluded – engine bearing emptied I had the car today on the lifting platform (relieving load via sleepers, i.e. axles) and first could not detect any clear damage or a place where you can see the contact or a tight spot: – The suspension rubbers and holders in the rear area all look good. – The two suspension rubbers on the holder Exhaust system in the berei ch VA (see photo) look a little bit elongated but not cracked or similar. I don’t think they are the problem, but they still look too good. But maybe I’m wrong here as well. – The torque support looks inconspicuous at first, but I don’t know exactly what the bearing looks like in the new state (see photos) I can’t really confirm that the influence of thrust operation is much larger when it comes to unevenness. I have changed the VA crossbars and coupling bars at 150 000 km. Unfortunately, I can’t show any interlocking on the lifting platform or any load / twisting of the drive to the car. One could perhaps let the clutch grind while the brake is closed and see how strongly the engine is twisted.About advice or tips what I could still check I would be VERY grateful. – Could it possibly also be a are the drive shafts that are then unobtrusive under load and clatter without load? -How can you determine (measured) that the engine bearing / torque support is over? -Are there any known problems with certain parts or common suspects in the series?

Hello together, I am currently moving a V70 D5244T4 D5 almost exclusively on short distance with morning and evening over 10km each. I notice that this car with 12l/100km consumes extremely much. On cross-country journeys the consumption drops quickly to 6,5l/100km. My experience with other vehicles with the same engine are significantly lower consumption even in short distance operation. Spritmonitor confirms my experience. Have you got a tip on what I could do to convert uchsmindern to work? Thank you and many greetings!

Hello together and a nice 1st May, I have loved it for a long time and now it should be put into action: I want to buy a V60. But which engine do I take? I’ve read a lot, but I don’t have such a good idea. Basically, I don’t care whether petrol or diesel. I want to have at least 150 hp, Euro 5 or Euro 6 doesn’t matter. It should only be a problem-free engine, I don’t want to buy a new engine every 30tkm. My driving profile is a good mix of city, country and highway, every year I drive so 20-25tkm. The V60 with diesel is much more common, the prices are far below those of the gasoline. Therefore, the purchase price speaks a lot for a diesel. But there you read a lot of engine damage. That makes me unsure. So what can you recommend me? VEA or Volvo 5-cylinder? D3, D4, D5 or more T3, T4, T5 or even T6 (6-cylinder)? Thank you in advance!

Hello dear community, I now have this problem soon for 2 years and I slowly don’t know any more.The following problem occurs with my Volvo XC 60 D4 AWD Bj 2016 140′ km I start the car and in idle run it jerks a bit (sporadic and not really bad but noticeable) With relaxed rides up to approx.70 kmh in each aisle so around the 1500 rpm and the foot slightly on the gas, he then jerks again more times less but also very sporadic again. In cold condition meh r, if it is warm rather less. The following history: The whole thing started with the error message that the air mass meter is defective. The error was connected with emergency running program and reduced engine power. I then replaced the sensor and the error was gone. Shortly afterwards the same error came back and it was found that the pressure box for the AGR valve is defective (there is some plastic part broken off). We replaced the pressure box, at the same time e r but all of a sudden started extremely to soot and there was already the jerking. I drove around so unfortunately a few weeks until it turned out that the turbo hose was nailed or had holes. Turbo hose renews soot away, jerking still there and he sank out of the exhaust. Then at the next AU then found that the exhaust values are utopianly high and that probably lies on the DPF. We had it removed then and found that it is broken. New D PF and Kat in. Now he no longer stinks out of the back, but from the engine compartment for badly burned diesel and the jerking is still there. The AGR valve is loudly friendly smooth and the pressure can intact. I had the feeling that the jerking 2 – 3 days after the exchange of the DPF and Kat was as good as gone until then it came back after all. Maybe someone has a remote diagnosis?? The error memory is currently empty. We don’t know what else is unnecessary to getausc We need to know until we have a solution. Thank you in advance and greetings Simon

Dear forum members; my Volvo XC70 Bj 2012 suddenly caused radio interference. Some stations still work reasonably without interference, but with the other stations nothing more than noise. My car dealer suspects a damaged antenna amplifier under the roof panel. I have replaced the left (P31295459) with a used one and nothing has changed. The right antenna amplifier (P31295460), which only has a single contact I haven’t changed to the side window antenna and apparently has no power supply yet. Could it theoretically still be due to the second antenna amplifier? Could there also be damage to the cable that leads to the radio in the driver’s room? Are there possibly other causes of error? Unfortunately, now the dipped light on the right side (Xenon) has also failed. How expensive is a repair? Greetings to the forum! elch2163

Hello, on my nearly three months old V70 some plastic parts bleach out, partly the black surfaces are already light grey to white. Is that normal? Did not have that with any other car (is my first Volvo). And maybe someone has an idea how to change? Is really unsightly with an otherwise black car! Specifically affected are among others the plastic strip on the rear bumper, the covers on the A-pillar left and right, the borders of the outside pie l, the window bars… Thanks for answers! filiushh

Hello, I’m not represented here all too often, but I have a question to the V 70 group: I bought a new V 70 in March in Sweden (therefor more), I’m also very satisfied with it, but about a week ago the tailgate started to register loudly with body twists (passengered in the trunk).I then drove to the dealer who said: is not the first time and mainly models with automatic tailgate.The problem: since all manufacturers save I don’t want to believe when the mechanic came with a grease spray bottle…but the flap is silent! So at the price you can expect enough fat! Since someone has already had experience of you, does that happen again, or does it last forever? Now to Sweden: I picked up my V70 over in Sweden myself, had a few nice days in Stockholm, about 10,000 € Listep rice saved, but fair way said, to dealer discount, which you get here, about 5000 €, and 1000 € more for my old one, than my dealer wanted to give me. Only only negative: my age was deregistered after just under 1 month, makes about 35 € tax, but does not want to argue about it. Otherwise, for my part, I would do it again.Everything went smoothly, flight, hotel and the car corresponded to the ordered. Thanks for your experiences for the sake of the flap, nice day You

Hi guys, I need your help with my brakes. I’m pretty close to the end with my Latin. Short history. I’ve been having a problem with braking from higher speeds for a long time now, that the steering wheel flutters. With slow braking I have the feeling that it slows down quite slightly. So -brams-brams weak-brams-brams weak … etc. You will already know what I mean. So far so good, no drama I think. Order for front new discs and After a visual inspection, however, I had to find out that the front coverings still look pretty good, whereas the rear coverings look quite small. I attached pictures. The rear panes and coverings were made just under 50,000km ago. I never think the front one. That’s what I’m so surprised about. The front coverings look really good for the fact that they already have 140,000 km on the hump. This is the actual question: According to Skandix, I have a brake diameter of 336mm in the front. Unfortunately, I did not find any indication of the diameter on the caliper. Last Mögl. would be measured of course. If I wanted to get a set of ATE brakes and blocks in the bay, unfortunately I find only brakes with the diameter 300mm there. Does this matter which one I take? Specifically it is this:Set 1 or the one hereSet 2 What ha I have rims in winter 17 and in summer 18 inches. Would be great if you would take the time to help with short, since I would like to order the brakes on my own and have them installed by a free familiar. I would of course also be grateful about alternative orderlinks. PS: Auto is a S60II D3 GT 2011 THANK YOU!