Category: Volvo S60 2, V60, S80 2, V70 3, XC70 2, XC60 Forum

Good evening, Why buy the 163 hp variant if you can get 215 hp? Is the 215 hp engine even recommended or is it overloaded with the BiTurbo? Is there some kind of purchase advice for the XC70 based on user experience? Have a look at the WE possibly a 2012 engine with 215 hp. What to pay attention to? I am grateful for every meaningful contribution.

Good day, with my V60, year 2011, I have had the following problem since summer: When it got so hot this year I got the warning on the trip on the holiday that the coolant level was low and I should stop. I was first surprised because I had never had this message before. Then I refilled coolant at the next gas station and everything was first normal again. Although I had already seen at the gas station that an abnormally large puddle was under the car. So m I had to replenish it a few hundred kilometers further, already on vacation. I also bought a leak sealer and poured it into the cooling water tank. It dripped further under the car. In the following days it became cooler in Norway. I noticed no more cold water loss at all. No puddle, no warning message. That went one and a half week. It was only in Germany, where it was much warmer, that the problem became noticeable again. I regularly filled up water and drove on normally, because there were no problems and I wanted to postpone an expensive repair so shortly after the holiday. That was in August. Now in September the problem suddenly worsened. Over night almost a whole cooling water tank ran empty. I filled up constantly. But since the refilling did not bring anything, or about Na I didn’t want to replenish everything overnight until I had a workshop appointment. I didn’t make any sense. Then I got sick (cold) and in the morning I had to go to school only 3 km and 3 km to drop my daughter off. Otherwise I stayed at home and didn’t fill up any more. Since I thought the short distance was irrelevant. And then everything runs out in the stand anyway. Well yesterday, I got back up again for the first time (after three days). only the indication that the level was low did not go away. It seemed as if the cooling water did not arrive where it should or was measured. Strange. Where is the level measured. Can there be something smeared on the way there and sealed with it, so that no water can get through? What can have happened? There is also no stain under the car, although I had filled up completely. What can have happened? It is weekend and I can also no longer in the workshop. Best greeting Sighard

Hello, I’m looking for shock absorbers for the rear with Four-C, because I just want to have it replaced completely. Found in front stress-free by Monroe, even quite inexpensive. I find nothing for the back. Does someone have an idea, or the part number at Volvo/ alternatively Monroe? Otherwise I have a funny noise for weeks, which maybe already an incl. solution knows. When driving/rolling slowly to a standstill I have a ringing/ squealing with a very bright tone, d I would rather be located in a loose sheet metal/storage. Can be heard so from 50km/h down when the window is open, not depending on the speed or angle of the steering angle. It is gone at a standstill. There is nothing to hear when driving faster, it doesn’t sound, it’s somehow gone. In the heat it gets brighter/squeakier, it seems away when wet. I am 3000km through Norway…it’s not worse, but always there. Places you can’t hear the noise…just come from below. e Floor waves, smooth asphalt and rollers at 20km/h are enough. Before Norway I was still in control at Volvo..they had the part on stage, with wheel load, hung out….there was nothing to be found…Bremsen OK, exhaust system OK…no longer. Curiosities: the same sound also makes the bells of sheep on Norwegian mountain slopes. That was late evening at the hut, standing in front of the locked car, then the time where one starts to believe that the flap is due. Ideas? Beautiful Grü INGREDIENTS

Moin, yesterday after shopping I got out of the parking lot and I ran out of engine. As an error message came “battery voltage low energy saving mode”. The engine could not be started after that. Then I called the ADAC which towed me off. At home I connected the laptop to the vehicle and showed me 2 errors. B108700 LIN-BUS A Permanent U012000 starter/generator control unit voltage too high Permanent I already have a n a bit looked on the Internet and came across the following: http://www.jagrullar.se/forum/viewtopic.php?f=56&t=125945 Unfortunately I understand only half so I hope someone here had the problem and can help me. I thank you in advance for your help. with the vehicle data Volvo S60 2400ccm3 D5 BJ: 2010 KM: 157418

Hello, my V70 III D3 (110 kW/150hp) with Geartronic and Start/Stop from 2017 drives me crazy. Since the purchase in February, I have a phenomenon that he starts to jerk and shake shortly after the perfect start, and then usually to go out. If I start him again, he runs like a Swiss movement, and then to “cough” a few times more noticeably at the next 500 – 1000 m. I changed the pressure sensor on the particle filter, the AGR cooler and the AGR valve. He also has a brand new starter battery. The official Volvo workshop is stunned, the tester does not emit any error message and nothing is displayed in the on-board computer. Fuel consumption is normal, i.e. around 6l/100 km and I hardly drive short distances, because of which he might be able to coke. After swapping the AGR valve and the cooler four weeks ago, the problem had not occurred during the entire holiday in the pre-alpines, on the day of arrival back in d he home and after a total of 2,000 km of distance in the 14 holiday days the phenomenon was immediately back. Does anyone still have a ignite idea here? Thank you already for the help

Hello have a question to report engine system maintenance required. Were on the way yesterday in the Black Forest, on the way back came then when driving on the BAB after the kickdown the message. I then stopped and looked at of course nothing to see, éL and so everything is good, performance drop I noticed nothing of. But then also took him home carefully. The car is first registration 05/2012 a D3 5cylinder with 163 Ps ,Tachostand Aktuell 119500tkm. No short distance, is my Pri Vatwagen still has a working car, this one to the few km. At the friendly I already called, wait for a call back from them. Up to data I never had problems with the moose, except my accident 2 years ago. Maybe someone has a tip what it can be. Have just found another Fred, can it come through this part? Have had the same sounds.https://www.motor-talk.de/…/…n-des-motors-v40-d3-t7025316.html?… Thank you and Gruss Micha

My XC 60 D5 was built in 6/2015 and ran 80,500km. In 2017 I completed the Volvo Pro connection warranty Plus, as I saw it as a good investment in the future, as it can be completed up to 10 years or 200,000km. Prospectus, dealer etc. It is not very cheap with over € 1,190,- either. It runs out on 2.7.23 and I wanted to extend it further, but only got the forms for the Pro BASIC. When I filed the complaint, my dealer found that the Pro Plus could only be extended until the 8th year. From year 8-10 only the basic would be eligible. On all documents, on the Volvo homepage etc. is clearly up to 10 years or 200,000 km. I would have completed with the knowledge only the basic, since at the beginning is hardly anything. Who has a similar experience? I have already written Volvo and sent all documents there. I would be grateful if someone has already dealt with it or can give me tips. Thank you

Hello together. I have a v60 d3/d4 2.0 163 for a short time. Shortly after the purchase (from private) about 1000km I had to refill cool water. After I did not find any recognisable leak, I filled UV additive into the circulation. Without results. So I assume that it goes through the exhaust. A pressure pruning (warm driven) overnight was also fine. (according to the workshop) It must also have been properly at temperature, as the average consumption when picking up a co2 test I couldn’t do, because there was too much foam coming from the tank. clear, not normal, but where does it come from? gas / overpressure from the engine would indicate leakyness, but should be noticed in the amount when pressing. I had suspected before pressing that the engine was pushing what into the cool water circulation. Possibly the pressure is not sufficient at the pressure pruning and it is the nasty hair crack. then the water would not be verb I read all the articles about it, but I didn’t find anything suitable. Does anyone have an idea? I’m grateful for everything.

Moin, I switched all the interior lighting to Weie LEDs on my moose. Now I still lack the ambient lighting in the roof console and for the compartment in the middle behind the center console. Since I have not found anything for hours I want to remodel this myself and would need the schematic to want to solder these soldering or soldering. Tiny SMDs that are glued to the circuit board are built. Does anyone have experience with this or perhaps the circuit diagrams? Yes ic h could also easily measure this out with the multimeters, but questions cost nothing pictures have unfortunately not been better captured, but you can guess how horny it is in real.

Good day Together, I’ve prepared everything for the timing belt change, and before the timing belt comes down I’m about to turn the two OT markings clockwise via the crankshaft. The rotation changes from heavy to smooth. Just before I reach the two markings it’s a bit more difficult again. The markings can be targeted very closely and then the motor just turns on its own a few cm further, so that the markings Does anyone have an idea how to adjust the markings normally? Should I just start the car again to have a different camshaft position? With my predecessor volvo this was not too difficult to adjust. Model: Volvo V70 Bj 2006 (motor 5244T4) Greetings Matteo