Category: Volvo S60 2, V60, S80 2, V70 3, XC70 2, XC60 Forum

Hello together, I’m going to have 100 km of daily commuting distance and would like to buy a Volvo V60 because I like the car visually. I thought about the 163 hp diesel. The car may also be older and already have several km on the clock. Is there something I should consider when buying? Was there a facelift or a change in the engine that is important? When is a timing belt change due? Are there other critical km numbers? Are there different suspensions (R-design)? I think aktu ell an: BJ 2011, 160,000 km, circa 13 – 14 Teur greetings, Ark

Hello everyone, a question in the round: On my former XC70 2 (B/P24) 2.4 D (Bj 2010) according to the operating instructions, since 2.4D engine, an A5/B5 oil in 0W-30 is given, which he also got during my ownership times. Now the free with the successor owner 5W-30 has filled, because there would be O-ton “a 0W-30 from Castrol no longer with the release for it.” Then a “Castrol Magnatec A5/B5 5W-30” was taken. Where can I find that this oil or generally which oil except the 0W-30 was released for the vehicle (there is nothing else in the instructions but 0W-30)? Question 2: Of what large oil company is the 0W-30 produced, what Volvo has always filled up with me, and is this oil actually no longer present today. I have the impression that the freeman wanted to fool the afterowner somewhat.

Moin to the municipality, in principle I am satisfied with the serial light BI Xenon + H7 driving beam. But there is nothing, which may be even better …. 😉 Is anyone here known if there are original dualxenon headlamps from Volvo for the V 70 III, or if this version was installed at some particular equipment at some time? Greetings from the Mark Brandenburg.

Hello together I’m currently driving a 2011 Volvo v60 d5 AWD with the city safety package. For a few days the wiper has started to wipe once without any activation on my part, but since yesterday it has started to scrub the dry disc on full wipe power. I have not activated the rain sensor and as soon as it has started to wipe it will not stop even when you shut down the car and close it. Then you have to get back in and the moto Turn on r then he stops in some position. I jammed the battery yesterday and waited, after that everything worked normally until this morning. Did any of you ever have such a phenomenon?

Hello everyone, I have to warn you directly, I don’t know about cars at all, but you have an urgent question about the above-mentioned, well-known problem with Volvo, the crash valve is broken. The Volvo has absolutely no power from about 80 km/h and does not come from the spot, at least it accelerates very slowly, turbocharger has already been ruled out that it’s because of that. Now we were at our workshop and that doesn’t want to repair the crash valve now, but there s suction tube.. Does the suction tube have anything to do with the throttle valve at all? When I was in the workshop with my friend today, the boss hardly paid attention to me and to my questions, whether the throttle valve is repaired at the same time, not really answered… My friend has less thought about it but I wanted to ask again, because I don’t want to pay 650 euros for the repair and in the end it says it is the throttle valve. Can you help me further? s suction tube really something to do with the flap? Or do you want me to trust the lady? They don’t have to deal with Volvos every day in this workshop, so I’m worried that she’ll just fix something for good luck. Thank you very much for your help!

Hello together, I have the annual spring oil change, after we had taken over our moose last October. Since the last oil change of the previous owner about 9 months and 12,000 km have passed. Currently 0W30 Shell Helix ACEA A5/B5 (manufacturer’s specification) is included. Now I have made a little bit smart and read that A5/B5 was introduced to get out the last milliliters and grams of CO2 for fleet consumption – of course at the expense of durability. others I would like to “get rid of” I also read that 0W40 can be a more sensible choice – I drive city traffic, but sometimes longer motorway stages with 180 km/h cruise control, yet no exhausting of the VMax. DPF is also “fired free” and has time to regenerate. Oil should be warm in most cases, also in the city. One or other short distance cannot be avoided. No trailer coupling, therefore no trailer operation, but when travelling to the south also Oil is changed all 12-15,000 (just for my driving profile), I don’t think anything about extending the intervals in the direction of 30,000km. Now the question is: ACEA A3/B4 with 0W40 or ACEA C3 with 0w30? The C3 is, according to my understanding, more DPF-friendly – so better for my driving profile, that also contains city traffic? Or is the Kleinklamüser, that is artificially raised to science? I like to clarify – I am also looking forward to product recommendations. Mannol might have had some experiences? Maybe we can get a tight thread here, which doesn’t drift off like many others on the subject of oil XD Greetings rlg

Hello I have before my automatic gear oil to change however without rinsing. I would replenish the gear oil twice. In other words, run once replenishing gears by switching off and then replenishing again. Would that possibly already be sufficient? I don’t know the total amount of filling comes out here in this action. However, I thought by filling up through the 2nd it would still be better.

Hello to the round, I’ve been having quite some problems with cold start trucks for some time. Have I pulled the plug off the AGR valve now, then the jerking is gone immediately. In 2 weeks is service appointment. Does it cause any problems if I have the valve plugged off until then? Of course the engine control light went on after third start, but otherwise nothing should happen there actually or? The jerking is annoying and I would rather drive the 2 weeks like that. Oh yes, goes around VEA D4 181PS Thank you and have a nice weekend!

Hello together, I need your glass balls 🙂 Drive a V60 D3 year 2016 with currently about 245000 km on the clock. In principle it runs only highway, daily about 120 KM. The car is very well maintained and I still like to drive it. Up to now the car ran completely without problems, had never had a do care-free car. Now however, he starts to make small bitches. When he is cold and you go off, he is very strong and it feels as if he was going out. Error code P200A and P 2009. Variable suction tube bench 1. Particle filter is also full with 16.3 mg and has to be burned out. Overall I would have to put about 3000 euros in the car. How does your glass ball look like? Is it worth driving the car up to 300000, or will there be too many costs according to experience? Thank you for your answers in advance Lowend05

Hi, first of all: I switched from a 2008 Mercedes W211 200k automatic to a V60 D3 Geartronic Kinetic Business Edition MY 2015 about 4 weeks ago. The reason was that the Mercedes with approx. 120T KM on the clock slowly became expensive because of the pending repairs (fahrwerk complete, Kardanwelle, …). Forward: I feel very comfortable in the V60, super seats, quiet enough space. Since I bought the 100kw Polestar was from the beginning a topic. After 3000km of highway then also to the dealer and a No comparison to before – above all the gearbox optimization pays off. So the car registered with Polestar and received my certificate yesterday – a jewelryless envelope, in it a booklet “What Matters…” and in it the certificate. No emblem for back, nothing, no welcome box. Now the question: normal for Polestar? Is there no more the welcome box? Or does it come later, or or or? Oh yes and before now comes why no D4 – the D3 was with Po lestar cheaper than a comparable D4…