Category: Volvo S60 2, V60, S80 2, V70 3, XC70 2, XC60 Forum

Moin, my V60 D3 from 2014 is now just about 300000km away. I think in the near future the clutch will probably be due. I would like to have the renewal done at Volvo and therefore I would be interested in what you paid for it. Greetings Kai

Hello all, I have the problem with my XC70 5 cylinder diesel from 2016 that after the oil change of the electronically indicated oil level after 1500km from max. oil to ok. Oil has minimized that allegedly about 3 liters of oil to 1500km. The engine is completely dry from the exhaust comes nothing. The vehicle does not squalor or similar and much down it has not actually 240.000 and stapled. I tap on the sensor since it is with me currently -20degrees let me ever but like to teach. Thanks in advance

Unfortunately since today a problem with the automatic of my XC60. When I switch from position “R” to position “D” there is a “stroke” / “Ruck”. I don’t know exactly how to describe it, fills up as if you let the clutch come too fast with a switch…… Someone has a clue so far ahead? Can only on Dinstag or Wednesday to, if I have not yet remained on the track.

An updated version for Sensus Navigation (without globe) is available for download:https://support.volvocars.com/…/downloads-area.aspx?…

Hello together, In July the four years lease period for my 2014 Volvo V 70 D4 VEA ends. I am very pleased with the car, he has now run 112,000 km, at leasing end it will be about 120,000. I have been tormenting myself for a few weeks with the question whether I keep the car and buy out or a new lease. To buy in, I have to put with a used car guarantee 17,000 € on the table. If I return it, come after visual inspection of my dealer approx. 500- max. 1000€ for In the light of the leasing conditions for the V 60, in which a brand new car with BLP ~62TEUR on 36 months and 25,000 km per year does not even cost 500 €, I do not bother with the decision. For the V70 speak its reliability, its large tank, which I really appreciate, its favorable maintenance costs, the perfect full equipment for me and the good maintenance condition. So far, the vehicle is in good condition without any defective condition. fen. Brakes around are new, I have to buy tyres now, so that the vehicle can certainly run for two years without a big investment, if nothing unforeseen happens. Actually, I had already decided to keep it. Now I have sat in the V 60 and grumble again. What would you do?

we need a car with more space so we have looked at the XC70 times. Criteria he has to meet -All-wheel manage all -Xenon create many -Privacy glazing in the back have almost all -self. it should become a manual transmission because woman only drives switches but if you consider that this has happened in the last years with the Octavia Scout only 3x then it can also become a machine since I have no problem with it as long as it is durable and one is not around the ears gt. Advantage of the switch is just every free workshop can usually replace the clutch when the time is finished – motor of the 163hp diesel because here in Austria one is given for every KW to the cashier. to the necessary still the with 181hp or 185hp but from there it will only be expensive. -Navi fixed installed I like no suction cup solution so it went to the car house to Germany because here in Austria there is as good as no XC70 but then I noticed something, which had 2 year 2011 a uf the yard standing the one has had the Navi far up and that is extended for it was the cockpit nicely curved the other had next to the tacho still a brush on where the Navi was integrated looked less beautiful, but well. can someone tell me the difference ? Which one should you prefer ?, updates with current cards will probably be available for both. What else should you pay special attention to ?

Hello motor talk Friends, Bin proud owner of a volvo s60 r design built in 2012 with 163 hp are about 2 months. Now I get annoyed by one thing and there is a blow or a jerk when using the stage D!!!! It was a few days ago and disappeared again, now it happens again. What can it be or why?

Hello everybody, I am currently looking for a suitable Volvo V70 as a “long-term vehicle” for the future. I drive very little and intend to use the car with appropriate preparation and care for several years. As part of my search I came across a Volvo V70 from 2008 and was able to discover enormous rust there with great eyes already in the display: Offer on Mobile.de See the photos of the quite extensive rust spots on wheel runs and fenders all around. My question now to the balanced Volvo-Plenum: So far, I’ve taken the V70 out of it to show itself quite resistant to rust. What is your practical experience here? Thank you and thank you very much!

Hello, after the old car has dropped off, we are faced with the decision to buy a Volvo V70 EZ01/2010 D5 2.4 129kW/175PS with 163,500 km and automatic transmission from private. The car is 3rd hand (1st was 7 months car rental, 2. a Dekra Ing., 3. my work colleague). Once a year he was at Volvo for inspection / oil change. Never been special. I have read a lot about the reliability here in the forum the last few days, but I am on the problem of cooling water leakage. t / cylinder head / ZKD pushed, as identical to the larger Bi-Turbo engines. Question: Is that really so?! Or were these only individual cases? Can I neglect this after 9 years and 163,500 km? My driving profile: 10,000 km per year (I don’t want a petrol engine); 3x the week 60 km (woman to horse), more often annually with 1700 kg caravan on holiday (2000 km…; retrofitted rigid AHK with double fan available), to work the bike. It should cost around 8,000 euros. Timing belts and the 4 tires in one year. TÜV/Inspection is still almost new. Would be happy to hear from you, thank you! Stefan

I now need the help of the forum’s swarm intelligence. There have already been various contributions on the topic, but I did not find a correct recommendation. I need the possibility to read the engine data (detonation/fuel mixture…). Background is a strange error in the engine run, which occurs so sporadically, that I do not want to start unprepared with it. After warming up the engine it sometimes comes to an unround training run (rubbing). There then run g 2 cylinders don’t feel right and the speed fluctuates (that’s where I want to be able to read where exactly what’s wrong). The vehicle doesn’t go out, it also takes gas, but it doesn’t feel nice. It also doesn’t seem to matter whether it’s gas or gasoline… Switching changes nothing. Curious is that I have the error 2 times a day after about 5km and then for quite a while no more (incl. 800km of holiday ride without a single jerker). It’s not on the GT, climate compressor runs freely, K For me, there are ignition coils or candles, but why it runs for days is rather a mystery to me. Errors are not stored, there is no emergency run, full throttle is just as feasible as sliding with 180…., whether on gas, or gasoline. So I need a recommendation for a simple reading about OBD on Android and case`s Someone has an idea for the error…please get it. Running power is 115000, Mj. 12, so far completely stress-free… Warranty is available There are motor, ignition system, fuel supply, ECUs included…..I have an interest in getting to the bottom of the matter.. 😉 Who can help? KUM