Category: Volvo S60, S80, V70 2, XC70, XC90 Forum

Have you looked at the page, was in the forum and swirled between annoyance and the thought: ‘ Mmmm, is there something about it?’ If they are also against direct injection, they can soon no longer buy cars, neither diesel nor gasoline, can it? Can it be that the one subsection of Scientology or Jehovah’s witnesses are? I only mean because they are so sect-like in their reasoning. Very decisive, unilateral, do not allow other opinions. What do you think davo G.

Hello am new here and hope you can help me! have already read some topics but none with my try… I am now really at the end with my Latin… the following problem: In my S60 bj’05 I installed an amplifier + sub which ran also at the beginning wonderful so certainly went 3 months without problems (had the two already in my car before(4er golf), ran over a year without problems) iwann but the sub just didn’t go, new radio bought(suspected on defective a m chinch output) because amp+sub tested both funzen the solution was -> bad mass contact mass placed on other contact then again, however, only for about 3 months…. the remote led lights green even without the one mass cable is connected which probably means that he gets the mass over chinch what is not good now. I close the cable again goes off the lamp. have also tried another amp since the same happens. chinch cables were tested and seem i n order to be. if I look around in the suitcase room I really don’t know where to get some more mass? the cables have a sufficient cross section. fuses are all whole. someone ne idea?? thank you in advance AMP: Mac Audio MPX 4000 1000watt Sub: Magnat Streetracer 3000xxl 1000watt

Good day, I often have the problem that my car ( V70R year 2003 ) runs out during the ride. Sometimes it can only be started again after several organs, but most often it starts problem-free. In the workshop the contact plate of the ignition lock was changed as the first diagnosis. But that remained without success. A fault code was not shown. Vehicle is an automatic. Does anyone have a suspicion? Greeting R-driver

Hallihallo I am so pleased with my Volvo (S60R hand switch MY06). I was able to pick it up just before 95000km and am now at 97000. The brakes were completely renewed when picking up the rear and front (dishes + blocks). Now it is like this: If you only brake very easily, the brakes squeak. If I step in a little harder, not. I thought that was because they are new. But after almost 2000km the squeaking is still there. Is this normal and goes the way or is there e in other problem? As far as I know, metal only squeaks on metal when both are “dry”. Bzw. it grinds.

Hello, I have installed a sports air filter (swammerl) in my S60 170hp. At the first start he dies after about 10sec in the stand and the message appears in the BC : Reduced engine power and engine system maintenance. I had only suspended the air mass meter (vehicle was ignition off). Then I called the ÖAMTC and this means according to his diagnostic system “The engine control unit is defective” How can this be ?? Is this connected with my air filter (which I now have to change again The car runs in the emergency running program i.e. it dangles, dies in a state immediately, runs after starting a few seconds, must be kept at speed (about 2500/min.) so that it does not die! Tomorrow I will go to a Volvo workshop ! Does anyone know advice ? Greeting Zekfu

Hello in the wide round I have a few small problems with my S60 2.5T and ask for advice, since I am not necessarily the brightest candle in the lampstand in car questions. I bought the sweetheart used to me almost 8 months ago (at the time 104T km away), at that time including promised inspection and new TÜV. Did everything work out in the second TÜV run, in the first a broken out cross handlebar bearing on the left was faulted and apparently repaired. Now I was the first one a few days ago. One time at a real Volvo contract partner for a short check before the big inspection (120T km)..wanted to know somehow what I will expect there. The workshop manager there looked at this in peace and found out that among other things – the rear bracket of the exhaust system had rusted through and torn off – the sockets on both lateral handlebars at the front were torn – the upper engine suspension/moment bar(?) is torn. To all these points he gave me still on the The second-hand car dealer of course sees this quite differently and says that during the inspection and the replacement of the transverse handlebar bearing due to the TÜV deficiency everything was not yet defective or that was not controlled at all during an inspection (e.g. the engine suspension). I don’t really know who I should believe now. and hope you can help me with your opinion Thank you, Marc

I have had the following problems with my S80 D5 (12/2002, 84.000km) for a few days: When the engine starts cold, the engine starts badly and goes off immediately after starting. It runs without any problems at the 2nd start. Then, when you drive in the sliding mode and then there is gas, it always jerks short and somehow some power seems to be missing — V-Max is still reached, but the acceleration is somehow not the same as before. Furthermore, the turbo sounds funny. it uses (approx. 1,750 u/min) you can hear in the interior (even when the radio is switched on – at normal volume) a kind of grinding or scraping noise which lasts up to approx. 2,200 u/min, after that it is gone. What do you think, especially because of the turbocharger noise? With the injectors I have already found a lot about the search, but I am certainly not. I could not find anything about the turbo. I already called my workshop today and he also said that e vtl. what of the exhaust gas recirculation could not be correct?!

Maybe someone from the community can help me: Can you operate the stand heating installed by Volvo (V70 II BJ 2005) also in the stand ventilation operation in the summer? This is at least not possible with Audi and Volvo Germany. Will this be possible in the V70III? Or is it only the solution, do not take a stand heating ex factory and then have a webasto installed afterwards (then there is also a mobile phone remote control on top). Hopefully someone knows something. i

Hello, have been driving a V70 II for 6 years and at some point had this “known” problem with the spinning central locking system. All 10-20 locking operations the driver door immediately opened again. I did it when it didn’t start to get repaired, I just didn’t want to spend so much money on it (was 50% on kulanz). I just paid attention if the driver door was always going too well and it was good. A few times the two times occurred, then I just got the F ahrertür closed by key. But now it gets annoying. For a few days the passenger door also started with it, but really bad. When it starts you have to climb the moose again and lock the passenger door by hand, otherwise you have no chance. Now my question: Supposedly these errors arise because microswitches in the door lock spin. Is it really so that you absolutely have to replace the door locks completely? In an earlier thread became an alleged craft solution with microswitch of Conrad mentioned, but specifically I could not find any information about it. Does anyone have a hint? Is the door panel difficult to get down? Probably not if I have accumulated enough anger… Thanks and greeting, toshimon

Hello, my S60 got 4 new summer tires before the winter again quickly. (the old ones were really down and I couldn’t refuse the good offer…) 4 new Continental “Conti Sport Contact 3” in the dimension 225/45-R17 – 91Y were mounted. And now the disaster: from approx. 70 km/h the steering EXTREM becomes spongy from approx. 120 km/h the car is impassable!!! You can really notice how the tires “wind” when driving. It feels like I’m driving on lubricating soap. Re ifendruck fits exactly according to the indication on the tank cover (front 2.2 bar, rear 2.1 bar). I tried it with increased air pressure (vo+hi additional 0.4 bar) but nothing at all. Load index also fits! Tires are also correctly mounted (outside to outside). Maybe it is also worth mentioning that tire gas was filled!? With my old Pneus (Good Year Eagle F1 “Assymetric” was a spongy steering no topic! Car drove like on rails! Now my Question(s): The new tyres have now about 50 kilometers down. I.e. a possibly existing greasy layer on the tread should have already disappeared, right!? Has anyone experienced something similar?? Should this phenomenon not occur, can I then advertise? (Tires have been bought and assembled at A.T.U) I am grateful for every tip, since I am already close to despair (so driving is really no fun and is also sucking dangerous!!!) Thank you, LG, Nordisk.