Category: Volvo S60, S80, V70 2, XC70, XC90 Forum

Hello everybody, I need your advice again. Something really stupid happened to me. I was on the highway recently. Music was a little louder and car a little faster … Mountain down showed the speedo 240 and at some point I registered that I was still on the fourth gear and so I was in the red area for several minutes with 1,000 revolutions. After I switched – then immediately – in the 5th, the message “Motorsystem Maintenance Dr. This was accompanied by the failure of the cruise control and the light of the small red ‘(warning) triangle in the display. As I continued without maintenance and did not notice any restrictions or impairments on the ride, I then disconnected the battery for about five minutes. After that, the message had disappeared and the cruise control could also be activated again. Unfortunately, the joy of this kept only about one and a half minutes, then the message appeared again. . In the meantime I drove about 500 km, message was always on, but I did not notice any damage, impairment or similar, so I would like to save myself a visit to the friendly one. My questions are now: What may have been broken? Is there the possibility to delete the error memory – e.g. by longer disconnection of the battery or similar – so that I can save myself a repair or a visit to the friendly one? Or I have to go to a friendly or a free workshop – only to delete the error message? It is a Volvo S80 2.4 with 170 hp, built in 1999. I hope that I will find advice here again and thank you very much for your help! Best regards and thank you very much! Christian

Hello, looks like my Magneti Marelli throttle valve is now also defective. you can a) send it to repair b) buy a used one to b): if I now buy and install a “used” one, the engine then runs and I can at least push in the “emergency program” to the Volvo dealer to learn the new one? or does the engine not run at all with a “foreign” throttle valve? a) would have the advantage that you get a completely overhauled throttle valve. I sprayed too much cleaner on the flap (and behind it), and Bum, flew high at the first time the air filter insert was allowed on and a flame came out of the air filter. Really very explosive this throttle cleaner. ___ V70 year 2001, 2.4 petrol 170 hp

Hello, since I did not find a “laper corner” in the Volvo Forum, I would like to post my question directly in the V70 II Forum. Since I drive a Volvo only recently, I would like to see how the start at the Volvo shows itself so to get a comparison. Up to now mostly had automatic transmissions. Drive but occasionally also vehicles with circuit, also car hire etc. With most vehicles in the middle class range the start is actually no longer a topic, the clutch comes In the V70 I have the feeling that the clutch is rather late in the car and that it’s very good. If you let the car be strangled there, you usually leave the clutch flapping. It’s easy to start without gas. The car doesn’t seem tortured, you notice clearly when you start on the mountain, when you kick the brake and let the clutch come in nicely slowly, that the car attracts and wants to go. You don’t have to give a lot of gas. This feeling is much stronger even with diesel vehicles (subjective?). It is not possible to start without a gas, or it then pulls / jerks / weakens, the engine starts to vibrate. One has the feeling that the clutch is overburdened with the vehicle mass in the stationary gas or with little gas. Usually a little more gas must be given to start gently. The coupling is more filigree, one has to have much more skill here, in order not to strangle or hop the car. Drivers would probably be more difficult to do with it than with new vehicles. More switching operations in gears 2+ are however easy, without twitching and comparable to newer vehicles. Usually a start in the stand gas should be possible. Too much (intermediate) gas during the dome is also rather harmful, since the wear is of course also higher. Is this also the case with you, or do you have a different feeling / shows the car a different behavior. Is it perhaps a matter of getting used to? Do I have to develop a Volvo foot first Ask me w he’s gonna be, if there’s a trailer in the back, greetings

Moin together, stupid question, but does the guarantee expire if I have my inspection done at a free master workshop ??? Due to the price difference this seems to be useful to me…

Dear Elchis and Elchins, just got off and just a little confused…after hearing a crack in the front axle for a few weeks, I decided to drive directly to Volvo, to have the problem repaired and then to have an axle measurement carried out. To the info: I only had the moose for almost 6 months, so still with a dealer’s warranty! After an hour the call came from the workshop: actually the complete front axle has to e be overtaken!!! Damn!!!! Here’s the estimate: 1. Shock absorber front 2. Dom bearing 3. Spring plate 4. Crossbars li/re 5. Internal track bar 6. Axle measurement And all this for limp 1900.- €. What would interest me at this point is what you think of the price? I immediately called my dealer, who first did not get a bad impression, especially since the car received a new TÜV only 5 months ago without defects….can I get the repair about the warranty ma Do you think the questions are not too stupid…I’m not a hobby screwdriver or anything like that…. Oh yes: V 70 II, year 2002, 140PS Thank you in advance for the answers! Dearest greetings from Berlin, Marcin

Good day to the readers, I had to sit down when I had to take note of the following: Some time ago I had ordered a third key without FB – cost point 35,-€, not very cheap but well, I thought, is just more in than at my bike lock. Unfortunately I could not start the car with it – back to – after that the start worked. Today I got an invoice for 43,-€ for “Programming & Software of the ignition key”. How now? E in working key without FB costs 78,-€ (pronounce 150+DM!!) Should this be normal or do I really just have the wrong workshop? grumbling, the manatee

Hello to each other, probably one or the other will hit the hands over the head, but I have not found a suitable answer to my question and therefore open the new thread. I drive a Volvo V70 D5 after countless 900 models now. Since some KM I worry about the automatic transmission. I try to describe it in the best possible way. When changing gears (e.g. P to D or the other side) the transmission switches very late. It takes between one and two seconds until the But if I have the foot only minimally on the accelerator pedal, the aisle slips in with a proper bang and the vehicle moves. After that he drives quite unobtrusively. A reading of the error code at the contract workshop revealed nothing. Do I have to worry seriously, I am not used to such a delayed switching from the old 965er (as I miss it)? Besides, there is another problem. m: When unlocking the ZV, a loud screaming sound above the rear right wheel box can be heard. What could it be? Actuator? I am grateful for every attempt at a fault diagnosis and tips for further handling. Here is the technical data: V70 D5 Built 2002 2.4 l 183.000km 163 HP/ 120kw Thanks

Moin together! I had already attached myself to my question in another thread, but unfortunately no answers were received there, despite 30 readers since then, that I decided to open my own thread, because the question is burning under my nails. I know you all have the topic already 1000000000…. sometimes chewed through, but it is not always about the S60, the topics partly old and/or the providers have changed. So the following: I have a 2002 S60 mi t 140hp and I’m also a bit followed by the motor light. At the moment it is the control probe, i.e. the front lambda probe, which is displayed as a fault and which was also replaced by the workshop. There was a new Bosch universal, which probably does not want to fit. If the engine is cold, it becomes a bit bumpy at the first few 100 meters. If the car is warm, however, it stops immediately and when the error has been deleted, it does not come back even with any number of rides and new stars, As long as the engine remains warm. Since this is not a permanent condition and with an original probe with almost 300€ a little bit appears, I need help with the correct probe choice. In the forum several times was called Uni-Fit, the control probe costs 95€ and, as far as I can see, has the appropriate plug. Has someone experience with the probe and can recommend it? Then we would have the Skandix house brand for 169€. Is already close twice as expensive. Can you do that? someone would say what? And last but not least the part web pages like part owners etc, which offer a lot of probes for 50-150€. Does someone have a tip at which provider, which probe can be purchased calmly? I can not necessarily see if there is the right plug on it, whether the diagnostic or control probe is and whether it fits my car. Sometimes it should be the right one for the engine, but then only Euro3, so it can not be the right one. The workshop takes back the Bosch without any problems and installs the right one. I just have to get it and I ask you for your help so that I can finally have peace of mind. PS: The probe has to fulfill Euro4. I have read that this does not necessarily have to be the case with Denso. Thank you very much.

Hello, the XC70 MY07, which I had to receive in the next few days, has comfort blinkers. I find these things quite terrifying. My owner claims that you can’t change it (by software). Is that true? Is it possible to turn off this module by means of “secret :-)” software? Or by removing any special relay (which is supposed to be mounted at the turn signal lever, was in a mail for the comfort turn signal)? Thank you, Gruesse, Eduard.

Hello, fluctuate between above mentioned motorizations. The gasoline engine would be converted to LPG. Maintenance costs should be very similar, purchase also. Hazards I am the diesel, I like quite well. How is the gasoline engine compared? has 50 HP more. How would your recommendation look? Greetings Römi