Category: Volvo S60, S80, V70 2, XC70, XC90 Forum

I bought a Renault Grand Scenic 3 for cost reasons and have already regretted it bitterly. People never buy you a Renault. They only have good cars and engines in Formula 1. I am now the owner of the Renault since 15.03.2013 and have the car now the second weekend at home. Tomorrow he is allowed to go back to the workshop. There are only problems with the car. Alas, I miss my Volvo. I am looking forward to the summer again, then I can again with my 121er on the e street. So people no Renault!!!!! LG Robert

Hello, with my V70 D5 BJ 2003 automatic I have the following problem: Sometimes when I am standing at the traffic light and take the foot off the brake it takes 1-3 seconds until the gear “pulls in”. Bad, if I have already accidentally given gas. In my workshop the transmission oil was checked, everything ok. No entry in the error memory. Lt. my screwdriver should drive to Volvo and let the “slaught” be set (in the control unit). A demand at 🙂 resulted in the the Master had no idea about it. The question that arises to me: Can it be the D50 signal? What needs to be exchanged, cost? Thanks for your help, aloha, pat

Hello Volvo friends, I got my hands on the ADAC magazine today and was very surprised how badly the XC90 had cut off in a test where it is about the power of heating in modern diesel cars. the test won an M5 which, thanks to the heater, probably takes just over 5 minutes to bring the -10 degrees cold car to 20 degrees in the interior. I didn’t get smart from the diagram, but the Volvo XC90 was one of the 5 last ones in the test and was only insignificant. Neller than a Renault Megan which took almost 20 minutes to make the driver comfortable… Um, can that be???? There was certainly the heater broken, right? I don’t even think if it only tuckers in the stand (with heater) takes soooo long! When I go home, cold, the heater jumps right on and I say 3-5 minutes later the pointer of the temperature indicator in the middle! That’s not like 5 kilometers depending on traffic. How is that with you? Edi t; here’s the test – I had failed, the XC90 is only the 8th-last… :-/Link

I have already read a lot and found a lot about the Sufu. But unfortunately not everything yet. I would like to buy a V70II in the near future, built around the 2000 to 2002 to max 200000. On the engine side my first choice would be the 200 HP machine. If the price is unbeatable, there would also be a 170 Psler. In any case there should be an AT transmission in it. Now I have often read that the Geartronics should not be so doll. Can you confirm that so? And if so, why not? And if I should find one that has this gearbox in it, what should I pay careful attention to when buying. To the engines. Running speeds up to 200000 are like I read this so no problem, if you are reasonably waiting. Are there still weak points on which I should pay attention. Unfortunately, the front axles are a bit overwhelmed with the heavy car. so much I already know. Are there no further weak points at possible the price to press. Is there a diagnostic device with which I can read/delete the error memory. I have something like this for my Opels. This can be used to program, read, delete, to make comparison and much more. Basically, I’m quite fit as a former car. But it’s also been 10 years since the screwdriving and I simply lack the experience with Volvo. Unfortunately, I can’t find the Elchwiki page anymore. Can someone send me links? Would I be happy about your experiences if you give them to the best.

Hello, I got a Volvo V70 2,4D (131PS) built in 2003. A few years ago I had the car as D5 and it was of course very powerful. I miss that a bit 😀 So I want to bring the vehicle to D5 level and the best thing is cheap:-) . Chip tuning is not really possible for me, because I just want a “D5”. What I know so far: both engines are completely identical, except for the engine control unit or its software. Simple consideration was simply to install the control unit from the D5, but that doesn’t work because the control unit and vehicle are “married” to each other (?). So that the Volvo dealer can program the new control unit (from the D5) into my 2.4D, it has to be logged off correctly only on the old vehicle. This is almost as good as with all available control units not the case. What data does the MSG access? At Ebay, for example, sentences are offered that include the MSG, key and W fS included (example: http://www.ebay.de/…/230913894436?… ) … If I put this sentence in, do I “round” the refusal of the ECU to make friends with my vehicle? Please don’t stone me for these considerations 🙂 Have a nice evening yet!

Hello, now the Dickelch has almost seven years and good 100tkm on the hump. He just doesn’t want to age partout and still stands today (ok, after thorough cleaning) again like a new car. But, I mean, he is now a bit more about the streets than before. Sure, it’s an SUV chassis and not an S-Class, but I imagine that it used to be even quieter. Now my question: Does it make sense at the age to change the shock absorbers or drive the “until I know that they don’t have to be exchanged, but I would do it if it made him calmer again. All complaining at a high level, but I have nothing else to complain about in the car….. Thank you! Greeting xc90er

Dear Forum, we imagine that you would have three children in your child’s seat, you would have available around 20000 EUR and your priority would be the safety and financial viability of the vehicle. What would you like to say? Audi A6 Avant Fiat Freemont Volvo XC90 (used, with almost 100,000km on the clock, perhaps from 2007) Volvo V70 (used, with 70000 on the speedometer, 2007 or 2008) VW Touran (base version) Zafira (good equipment) My wish would be the XC90 – is that unreasonable (wg. mgl. Cost explosion in this used state)? What would that mean? Does anyone have experience with a used XC90 for around 20000 EUR?

Recently I have a strange behavior. If I drive constantly, i.e. evenly, e.g. 50km/h, then it is always easy to notice a jerking. As if I have short ignition oscillations. Also I have times that when starting the cold engine, it shakes strongly until it then runs after a few seconds round. Does also somehow indicate ignition oscillations. What have I done so far: All spark plugs renewed -> no improvement read out errors -> nothing saved All Verbr also switched off, like climate; light etc. -> no change. If you let roll, so clutch kicked and stand gas, is immediately calm. So comes definitely from the engine. Hmm should it be an ignition coil? Only which one? , how do I get that out. By the way, when accelerating I don’t have the feeling, because there would be something different. However, it can be deceptive. Now I need a clever tip Greeting Axel

quota: the doxc now goes with the thickness in the snow möllern- juchuuu winter break in de Rhön. 25-30 cm pappy new snow. Cold and slippery underground. the B279 from and to Bavaria blocked by cross-sectional trucks.Im still strong snowfall. I pulled a nice track with the thickness out of the farm entrance, then a little waved. fast nocvhmal refueled. ice-smooth on asphalt. then wanted to pick up my father for ski training and I tried hard and good courage to get the entrance down 10 m to the house, 20 m to the 2nd house below, there close. Lateral boundary left house then embankment, right embankment with fence, then another neighbor house. Quite steep, loamy and bulky underground. Could only go forward, as up on the road the cars were narrowly parked (you already know – circle around and so). At the house I then turned the thickness. Backwards in and right in. Quietly grey I say and remembered old MT tricks. DSTC, Gaspeda The gray immediately breaks out back to the right towards the embankment and fence. is fixed like a stubborn donkey. Roll further down. Next attempt: the gray throws with the tail towards the house. and another piece down. To the right the neighboring house dangerously closes. the 2 tons drift to the right. so back again. the previous processes repeat each 2-3 times. The gray breathes and squirts, I sweat. All neighbors watch and We can’t call XC-Fan, but we’ll make it. Gas pedal full and slowly but surely we’ll pull ourselves out like it says in the MT. It works. After 15 min we’ll be back up again. Braver Dicker. doxc

Hello, I would need your support in making a decision. The topic has already been touched in a thread, but I’m somehow not really further yet. So: my V70 has the factory phone installed, and from my old car I also have a Bluetooth-FSE (AudioBlue from FWD) “to lie around”. Advantages for the BT-FSE: – Comfort (enter and go) – Compatible also for my wife’s mobile phone and not first SIM-card-change – constantly up-to-date phonebookeintr ie advantages for the built-in telephone: – no screwing necessary – control on the steering wheel and display in the instrument cluster – use of factory micro and speaker in headrest – use of external antenna I asked my GSM provider – the TwinCard costs 3EUR per month extra and I must always prioritize one of them (if both devices are booked) by code input. Sounds annoying, therefore my questions: – if I enter and turn on the car phone and this it then prioritizes, can I “only” call with the car GSM, right? – if I get off and the car GSM switches off automatically (?) – do I still have to enter the Prio code on the mobile phone? – do the two SIM cards have different PINs? – Phone book synchronization between the SIMs – is this done by manual copying in the mobile phone or is there an “online” service with the operators? It would be great if you could tell your opinions and experiences. I admit that that is a luxury problem. 😉 Basically I find the BT-FSE better, but somehow it strives to operate the installation effort, if already a phone is built in. Thanks and greetings from the Rhineland Bernd :-))