Category: Volvo S60, S80, V70 2, XC70, XC90 Forum

Hej people! The lack of accuracy of the on-board computer was often a criticism point. Especially it concerned the average consumption. By and large, I had to detect occasional deviations, but which remained within the frame (deviation +/-0.2 liters at most compared to manual calculation). In winter, of course, due to the auxiliary heating, no exact measurement by BC was possible. I would like to neglect this situation here. The subsequent refueling in connection with my “Ultimate test” I had to find horribly that the BC shows a difference of +0.7 to -0.4 compared to the hand calculation. I find that quite wrong! Now my question. What concrete experiences regarding the deviation BC/hand calculation could you find so far?

Hello Volvo community! Now it might have caught my V70 II D5, 163 HP (376ts KM): The car loses strongly on (short) AB drive coolant. Does it have to be the head seal or even a hair crack in/at the block? The car does not smoke white and does not have any mud deposits when I open the engine oil cover. There are also no puddles or the like under the car to recognize. Are there also other causes/damages than the described above? So Kopfd I have read about a CO test in the cooling liquid tank. Are there other ways to verify this? And if one of the two cases really happened, what would be useful to change/change everything next to ZR & WaPu? Thank you! LG, Max

Hello, I have a question, I have an S60, 2,5T, first time 19.02.2007, with 200,000Km on the clock. Engine B5254T2, transmission is M56. Fin. YV1RS595272633219 My problem is that my Volvo makes cracking noises, in idle as when driving. The cracking is the loudest in the area between engine and transmission. The noises are unevenly moderate, clutch kicking will make cracking quieter, or not, and when I drive, sometimes quite away, then there again, sometimes very loud, sometimes quiet. Clutch has never been changed. I have drained the gear oil, and there are metal chips to be seen. (gear oil changed two years ago) without chips. How do you best proceed? What do you do when it is gear? I am happy about every answer. Greeting from Hamburg Jürgen

Hello dear forum community, I’m looking for an XC90 for a good price / performance ratio. Now I’ve seen an offer, but ask me … is the price normal? A 12/06, 1st hand, 7-seater with 88,000 km for a good 23.000€. Strange is, Grantie possible +650€, but is a dealer. 4.5 hours driving time (one distance) want to be well thought out. For just to look a little bit far away! Or should you better buy in the vicinity if problems with the vehicle occur? A “about” comparison offer 02/06, 1st hand, 7-seater with 60,000 km for a good 28,000€ with the difference of almost 5,000€! My dealer on site is always something very expensive than others! What experiences did you have?

Hello, I’m not a VOLVO driver, but I’m interested in his quirks: A good customer of mine has had an XC90 for 15 months. In Nov.06 he got it at 97 Tkm: engine damage. But the friendly ones of VOLVO from Cologne let their surprise run free: THE WHEN the FIRST MOTORSCHADEN of an XC90 D5 at all, they even wanted to have the machine picked up for further investigations in Sweden. But now the BEST: before four DAYS after another 14 TKM with the new MASCHINE: the next MOTOR dead, again at > 180 kmh on the highway. And again the same fairy tales: VOLVO can’t explain! Has anyone experienced something similar??

When driving away in the first gear, the wheels often spin off. Even with snow-covered roads, I often get stuck. I’ve been in the workshop several times, the problem has not yet been resolved. Lt. Information from the workshop should be a flaw of the last v70 series. Who still has the problem and must I be satisfied with it?

Tank flaps Locking has been out for years. Now with the high gasoline prices it would be hasty. quite useful. With little effort revitalizeable?

Moin, I have read many articles, yet a short question: Climate cools at “normal” outdoor temperatures (e.g. 18 degrees) perfect – temperature in the air channel between 3 and 5 degrees. The clutch is coupling – compressor runs – at 3 degrees it goes out and at 5-6 degrees it is coupling again and runs along. In brutal heat it runs normally – it gets cold – after about 5 minutes and that unfortunately stays the same. After a certain service life it is the same. Can it lie on the coolant? Actually, the The plant was filled half a year ago because the LLK came new and the climate cooler was out. But I don’t trust the roasting completely. So let the first measure do a climate service, or first check something else?

MOIN! So now it’s time… The 630,000KM are done, and all with the 1st engine, turbo, coupling etc… The thickness is moved daily about 600KM sometimes also up to 1200KM. Data: V70 II D5 Mj03 with manual circuit Easy this feeling to enter every morning, turn the key and hear the 5 cylinder buzzing…I still can’t believe 630,000KM and rides better than any new pass. After such a mileage one would actually look like traces of usage. n and look for uses in the interior, but there is nothing available. NO worn-out steering wheel, no cracked leather stud etc… Some cars look much worse after 100,000KM. The best one comes to the end. I bought the thick one from a retired person with 34,000KM. In the well 600,000KM no repairs except normal wear parts and the usual service at Volvo. Also the astonishment not bad when they look at the KM stand. I hope that my fat one still many more KM will accompany… And hopefully carefree Greets, radiogo7

Evening, the title is actually already the question. After I have been looking for the right dampers in the net for 2 hours, and have not come to a reasonable result, I simply ask you. mMn would have to be the c1501 for the R….the 1503 for the XC70 and therefore the 1502 or 2502 for the “normal” V70? Could someone please confirm that? My chassis carries the internal identifier “500661”, if this contributes to the solution search. r to build up? Greetings Ricardo