Category: Volvo S60, S80, V70 2, XC70, XC90 Forum

Hello to everyone! Now I have my best and best Volvo (full equipment), which I had up to now, again 3 years. I bought it as a young used from the friendly. Current mileage is 124,900 km and now I would like to push the performance, after I could not get through to it so far, not because of the finances but because of “fear” of durability and increased load of the technology. But the desire for more performance and easier Ausgleic h the starting weakness at low speeds is at the moment quite big ! The questions, which are now up to date : 1) Should one not realize the project with the current mileage perhaps after all, because one should do the tuning perhaps only with newer engines? 2) Is it true that Heico requires 25% less, since the guarantee falls away ?? 3) What changes with the running culture, afterwards it runs rougher/core or this is louder? 4) Or nevertheless prefers to continue the good as until ? What is your assessment ?? Thanks and greetings to all !

Hello together I have a little problem with my S80 (T6 99er). Last week I drove to Italy and when driving back I drove a little bit faster.. 220 – 230… when came the exit I had to take to “unload”.. stopped in front of his house, motor out.. then it came to my mind that I should still run the car so that the turbos can cool down.. motor again.. 2 seconds ran.. is out again.. I thought maybe he didn’t have a sprite anymore. 50 meters further on was a fuel station, until there I arrived still scarcely, full fueled and dan again the same.. after recently studying I found out that my LMM is kaput.. (put out and drove home).. since then I have been on every small drive, even if the car is completely cold, and I drive only 20m and turn off the engine again, the cooler catches to turn. can m I’ll tell you if this could have something to do with the LMM or if that’s different? As long as the temperature stays in the normal range it shouldn’t be harmful for the engine to drive like that or? (clearly driving without LMM isn’t exactly the best for the engine, but LMM is on the road, should be there tomorrow or the day after tomorrow) Temperature stays in the middle range even for longer rides, cool liquid I have enough in it, oil too. would look forward to every tip. not the water pump…

Hello, I have an S80 with D5 engine and 163hp 2005 with automatic. Recently it is negative that the car starts to roar at 80. At 100 you have the highlight so that I have to run my sound package otherwise you get pressure on the ears. At 110 km/h the noise decreases again and at 120 km/h and up it drives as I am used to it from the thick. It doesn’t matter whether I give gas or let the car roll. I would be grateful for every tip I myself The last inspection of the axles came 8 months ago and without any defects. Greeting Christopher.

Hello in the round, I drive a Volvo S60 Bj. 2003 with meanwhile 199,000 km and now with some horror accepted the estimate of the KfZ workshop – occasion is the due TÜV. All-in-all approx. 1.000,-, that can already spoil my vacation! And this looks like the greatest: brake cheeks manual brake renew: 51,- material (TBB set) 87,- work rear silencer renew: 366,- material (end silencer) 31,- work load/manual joint renew left bottom 69,- material (trag) joint) 47,- work joint protective cover re. outside (front axle) renew: 23,- material (joint cuff set wheel.) 127,- work What do you think about it, are these realistic values? (I mean only so, can one or the other have clear concerns. Actually, there is no reason for me to distrust the workshop) I tend to a more favorable solution in the rear silencer: not necessarily eBay test devices, but the part of IMASAF mentioned here in the forum quite often. merhin 120,- below. If someone has a different tip: always come with it! What is a little surprising about the joint cover: so much work for it? What do you think about it? Greeting Ulf (ex 244, ex 850, now s60 … and generally satisfied with the Swedes)

Hello! I have just read through the forum and would like to describe my problem now. Most of the time my wife drives by car and also with a lot of city traffic. It usually comes to the problem if I want to overtake another car, or drive on the highway and speed up. I give gas and it does nothing, except that the speed shoots into the red area. It switches into the idling. I go down from the gas and notice how it plugs in again. When I give back gas the speed goes up and he bangs in a gear that I think now drives the engine and gearbox without a car. GT oil has been exchanged and software updated. What do the experts suggest??? Thanks LG Robert

Can you possibly give me a tip with which roof box the v70II with original suspension and without roof railing still remains under 2m. Roof box should not be used for skis but for light luggage. Which load carriers would you recommend? Orginal or what from the accessories? At the original there is unfortunately nothing about how high it is. As boxing I noticed the original Volvo parts. For example Sport Time 200 for 320€. Often this has already someone behind it and can give with one or other tip. I’d be very happy.

Hello, since yesterday my XC90 makes funny loud sound noises, I think front left to the bodywork, it all started when I drove yesterday on the highway about 40km at some floor waves hit something against the bodywork below, you could feel it clearly in the car. But was on the 40km only 5 times, wanted to drive today then again and now it is constantly with every pothole it sounds like something in front left against the bodywork. I already got under the car But nothing unusual can discover. Had someone the same problem and by chance knows what that is. I even think that it is also knocking when cornering. Thanks in advance

Hello together, finally … …after driving XC 60 since the end of January I was able to sell the XC 90 at a still painful price – and yes to a local he stays – I hope – in Germany – ok only Bavaria As already with the sale of my V70II in November 2006 for newcomers and interested people a few hard facts about the XC 90. But in advance I have a very gentle driving method and I don’t really believe representative. Here the facts all gross: First admission ung 08.12.2005 XC90 Kinetik /SD/Xenon/AHK/Telephone/ I purchased the vehicle at the end of Nov. 2006 for the purchase price of 33,000 €. Kilometer level 41,000. Sold April 2012 Selling price 9,000 € Kilometer level 263,200. Loss of value for the self-propelled kilometers = 24.000.- € or also 0.108 € /km. Costs: Diesel: 22.780.- = 19.042 liters Workshop 2.114.- (up to 150,000 km check booklet then free or done yourself) Insurance 3.168.- Taxes 2.026.- Other 2,684.- Tyres installed themselves spare parts filter etc….incl. subsequent activation auxiliary heating- special promotion- Lfd.costs 32,774 + 24.000(loss of value )= 56,774 or also 0.255 €/km consumption over all approx. 8.6 liters and thus about 0.8 liters above the BC. average price per litre approx. 1.20 € that were times… Unplanned repairs… wheel bearing rear right at approx. 163,386 and without bulancy! cable break driver side door 2x driver seat plate panel cable break to airbag somewhere back in the trunk steered il parking sensors at the rear at approx.249,000 km So far for all number players… I would be interested in other experiences… Greeting REB14 (Dirk)

Hi, here I have promised it: If I need new tyres, I open another tire thread to the thousands of existing ones. My rear Pirelli P-Zero asimetrico are in the back – after I bought 2 new tyres last summer because of a nail in the flank. There are a lot of summer tire threads, but the 19″ variant is usually not the topic. Therefore the following questions. 1) My V8 has a registered top speed of 210 km/h. Would you like to then take “H” tyres (210) or still “V” tyres (240)? The selection of tire types is much larger with “H” .. 2) Thomas 850R96 recommends the Conti 4×4 in other threads. Thomas: Would you recommend it in 19″ and for fast speeds? 3) 2 of my Pirellis are still quite OK. Would you mix different tire types (not sizes!) on the axles? 4) I focus on a tire with less wear than with the Pirellis… @Andi: it does have 1 3 months instead of 4 weeks… Nice greeting Jürgen

Hello guys, have a question to you. A friend has bought a moose V70 Bj 2003 D5. Now you were also told a lot what you also get when buying e.g. a roof box and an original tub for the trunk. As both windows are very scratched drivers and passengers should also be replaced. Now comes the hammer, car bought by a Scania dealer who sells this vehicle on behalf of a person. In the contract is also I.A. blabla. car bought there otherwise rech 3 days later, the hose moves from the servo pump to a Volvo workshop. They wanted to have 485 euros for everything, all right, must be done. The guy called where car is bought, who says goes off is taken over by them. So let it be done, now my girlfriend wanted to do something good. Once complete by you and outside. Dabie turns out that the driver’s door has already been patched, and you can see it. Sure she F rough and car was also dirty at purchase. Stand in the industrial area. Lots of dust and driving dirt on it. Now clean and you can see it in the sun that was splashed, was not cleaned. The seller now says nothing more about it. Neither to the invoice for the servo hose despite the fact that he pays it. Neither to the parts roof box, tub, windscreen wiper new set either. And also not with the spatling. He only writes one should turn to the owner. But he did not have n on behalf of Sold and Arrested, right? Thank you for your help.