Category: Volvo S60, S80, V70 2, XC70, XC90 Forum

Hello together, after coming again from the friendly just I’m desperate. I just bought the car with real 22,000km on the Tacho. It was a second car, and garage vehicle. Top condition. Before the purchase I let the car from the DEKRA cheken, astreine exhaust values, no error message in the display. Then proudly drove with “new” old S80 300km home, immediately into the washing garage and then came the error message Emission: Maintenance required. I would say that the car pulls normal, no engine rucksacks, no nix. Did the error message now delete various times, but after almost 20km the error message comes back again, if I miss the engine and then start the ignition and then the display remains permanent. The LMM has already been exchanged, errors nevertheless came again. What can that still be? Drosselklappe? or Lamdasonden? I would be very connected to you if you still have the one or other tip, as I can quickly analyze the error (best with instruction) to invest the new parts without being defective.

Today I have a question and I have stumbled in the bay over the following particles for the D5: Vibration damper for the upper crossbar engine compartment suitable for Volvo DIESEL D5244T engine type : S60 Diesel 2001 -> 2009 S80 Diesel 2001 -> 2006 V70 Diesel 2001 -> 2007 XC90 Diesel 2003 -> 2012 XC70 Diesel 2001-> 2007OE 30645245 / 30741762 http://www.ebay.de/…/261532803261?… Our D5 of 2002 with 163hp doesn’t have this thing at all. So, as I interpret this, the part is screwed with the bolt, which also goes through the eye of the engine bearing. Am I completely on the wood way, or was it possible to retrofit it, or is the text of the auction just stupid?

Hello together, first of all thank you for the nice tips regarding the collection of my XC90 D5, will also try to answer the mentioned questions below. But before, the switch, V70D BJ99 to XC90 D5 BJ06, def. has paid off, although it has fallen after 200,000 km nevertheless hard ;-(. But to the topic in short form; engine, very good impression fits seats, unfortunately not as good as usual but OK workmanship, good to very good driving behavior, very pleasant, still has to get used to the size equipment, as desired and sufficient, handling, when parking I first installed the AK and for the woman did not uncouple the trailer 😉 Driving noise, OK, from time to time a flapping on the rear axle when driving, what could that be?? Consumption, with the 1st 1000km approx. 10-11litres hope that this is still a bit down. Delivery place, was MG (Mönchengladbach) a room offer, huge as desired, for Segler a dream ;-), for the economical connection, but for the female to buy the trailer is also pleasantly accepted!

Hello, like millions of others also my family and I used the nice long weekend for a trip to Holland. On the way back on Sunday I had to do 50km before @home a (unplanned) tank stop. According to BC I had still for “–” up to 30km fuel in the tank. The BC was not so sure. I then refueled 74,xy liters – I like to put the proof still, but have the here in the office not available… As we know, the V70II has a tank content of 70 liters! Who offers more? Greeting Marc – from Munich, where the beautiful weather is also over.

With my V70 2.4T I’ve been having the following problem for a long time: I don’t have the same speed as a constant drive. It’s as if the speed was taken away like in waves and returned again. Not dramatic, but traceable. Now that I’m coming from the coast, it’s a little bit easier to compare. It’s as if there were waves in front of a small boat. It’s stronger if you have speeded up before, and then keep the speed (80km/h in 4th or 5th gear). But at worst, if I’m going up in a speed 30 zone in 2nd gear. I hop up the mountain like a kangaroo. Then it’s about 5km/h without moving the accelerator. Maybe someone has an idea about that? Drosselklappe has been cleaned several times by the workshop, which has brought a little improvement in the level, but the footing on the mountain is unchanged.

Hello, We intend to buy a Volvo XC90 D5 with first registration in Dec. 05. It is already the new diesel engine installed. Now we drove a demonstration car (MJ 2008) in detail sample. Everything was fine except the ventilation, which I did not get in control. That’s why I searched the internet and came to this great forum. Something different than in the many descriptions I did not feel cold on the left knee, but the gas foot was incredibly cold in the first hour. After a few hours drive I meant it pulls somewhere to the left of the upper body, but could not locate this. Now my questions: Do those of you who have similar problems with the vehicle (and there are a few in this forum) can somehow alleviate or fix the problems or remain a condition consisting of bad condition? Have you found out by now why some of the forum users do not have these problems at all? Would you go so far and advise me because of the draught problems completely off the vehicle? I will now test the used vehicle (which I haven’t yet driven) extensively on train air before I buy it in the winter? Can you identify your problem now?

Hello, I get at the end of January 2008 my moose (S60 2,4D 163hp EZ 04/05 without particulate filter) with a two-tank system of the company Elsbett converted to salad oil. The manufacturer as well as the specialized company in which I get the plant installed, have assured me that there are no problems, since the salad oil is only preheated to 70 degrees (the plant automatically switches to salad oil after 4-5 KM) but I wanted to know nevertheless whether someone has already had experience with his moose and salad oil? Especially with the more modern Comman Rail diesels and not with the old TDIs of Audi. So I do not want to refuel organic diesel but really pure vegetable oil. Before the engine is turned off, one should switch to diesel operation again so that the engine has diesel in the nozzles again for the next start. The heater is still supplied with diesel. I also get a guarantee on the plant and the engine. Has anyone already gained experience?

In the evening, as described in the other Troeöt, I completely re-made the brake discs, pads, etc. at the back. Is there anything you can do wrong with the brake cheeks for the hand brake, if you put them in exactly the same way as the old ones? So in the back the elongated U-blech in between. The two cheeks “clamp” with the springs you have to grope in with the pointed tongs. And in the front over the tensioner with the thick spring clamp. The hand brake has no effect :-(. And yes, I found the adjustment option at the front of the lever. However, I have bought several turns, but the lever does not go any further at some point. But the hand brake nevertheless has no effect :-(. I would guess I have put together something wrong, but I have no idea what. Or I cut it to the supplier’s ears? I had bought extra “Brembo”, which according to the statements here is a proper brand. My neighbor (Motocros driver) did not have to confirm it. However, the brake would not have been anything else.

Moin, I drive a Volvo S60 built in 2000 with the 2.4l 5cylinder engine 170hp. After driving on the highway with a time of about 160km/h on Wednesday morning, I discovered an error message “please drive slowly, engine maintenance urgent” and the MTK was blinking at the yellow. After driving down from the highway, I just noticed that something was wrong, giving gas no real power and yes sounding like a trecker in idle. When I was at home I pulled the plug from every ignition coil, cylinder 1-4 I could detect a change in the engine run, at the 5th cylinder act nothin’ when I pulled the plug, so on screwed up and looked and fact the spark plug was heavily rusted and lacked a little bit of the candle. Well, new candle and certainly half new ignition coil was ordered and built in. Unfortunately without success, old ignition coil also tried No success, after relatively short time the candle was again full of gasoline and oil? So the candle would not have to be wet?

Hello together, I have read a bit crosswise. I would have a special question: I get the error message in the on-board computer “SRS Airbag maintenance urgently” and the warning triangle remains yellow. I had the error memory read out: error code: 212 (error code order: 00D4), airbag control lamp, function faulty The AB control light (bottom right in the AI) lights up at the start and then goes out. That means the light bulb there can not be faulty. I have read once that there is a indicator light in the rear view mirror. Could it trigger the error? Or does the AI have to do the repair? The warning signal, if you have not buckled on, does not always work correctly. Otherwise, the AI works. Still to the information: I had the AI repaired due to pixel errors in the on-board computer display 2 months ago. Thanks already for notes.