Category: Volvo S60, S80, V70 2, XC70, XC90 Forum

Good evening, After a long waiting time I finally want to get my dream car: a Volvo. Petroler there no long distances and if only rarely. Now I have an offer in my surroundings which sounds very good: – First registration 2005, former import from the Netherlands but already all German papers finished, was here already once approved – fresh TÜV – engine 2.4 Ltr. – 103 kW 5 cylinder – first 159,323 km mileage (detectable) – 5 levels automatic transmission (activates perfectly) – Face lift model – central locking with radio remote control and 3 key – power steering – leather seats – 2 – zones climate automatic usw etc … many extras Visually it looks good, very well maintained maintenance: – TU?V NEW! (01/2024) – O?l, O?lfilter, air filter, NEW! – air mass meter NEW! – windshield NEW! – tail flap dampers NEW! – wiper rubbers NEW! – Brem windows and choppers in front and back recently NEW! – timing belts at 132.113 km (10/2017) changed! What do you say? A good car d he V70 from 2005? Or should I let go of my fingers because of automatic transmission? The timing belt was also made in 2017 and should hold for a long time? Vg and thank you Animal House

Hello everyone, since today I am proud owner of a Volvo XC90, D5 AWD, 2004 year, automatic (with Tiptronic), original Heico Tuning (140 kW), 230,000 km, 1st hand, 7-seater, black-metallic, leather, accident-free, patchbook-kept, TÜV/AU new, private seller, price: 8000 EUR. Everything actually top, except today, the first day with the vehicle… Suddenly the error message “gear maintenance required” appeared when driving inside. The car drives without noticeable differences, i.e. impeccable, both with Tiptronic, and in automatic mode. Then I looked at the existing invoices and found that in 2013 the transmission oil was changed at 215,000 km. What do you think this can cause? What can I do? Do I have to be afraid that the transmission is broken or that problems will soon occur? Does anyone have any experience in this regard? and can give me tips? Please urgently for help. MfG

Moin, I’ve been looking for another car for a long time, which is supposed to run as an everyday/main vehicle. I put the focus on BMW (I prefer dealers from a radius, there was nothing neat about it); today I noticed at a local dealer: Volvo s60 Comfort, 2.4, 103kw, automatic, 170.000km, EZ 6/2003. Externally (no one was on site anymore) he looks completely OK, scanning threshold etc. all positive. After research I concentrated mainly on the Handbrake and DK problem. I hope I understood correctly (and no; 89 pages at once are then still too much ): Carriers rotten, coverings dissolve, in the worst case the storage block shears off and the destruction takes its course ? Means, the dealer should change brake cheeks. Enough ? With me then the change would be made once a year (I live directly on the North Sea, does not cost the world and not much time). DK / DK-Poti: there are models until year xx/2002 affected with the MM-DK ? The MM-DK so with a view as such identifiable? How do I test with an automatic model (except for quiet idle) with built-in MM-DK (here was called Test 3000 U/pm and abruptly gas removal at switches). Are there any other weak points with the car (VA suspension / excessive steering game / something undersized etc.) Thanks for answers Oeli

We have another Thule/BMW Power Ride roof box (Thule Motion). Now we want to mount the box on the Volvo roof rack (XC90), which is also manufactured by Thule. Now BMW cooks its own quilt with the roof racks, the grooves are wider than those of the Volvo/Thule base racks. These have 20mm, at BMW 25mm. The threaded rod to the BMW box has the mass M8x55. I have been researching in the www. for ages now and will not really be smart what to buy… Can someone tell me what suits me to some extent reliably? Thank you and greetings

Hello together, I have tried to distract you a bit apart from the everyday problems. But the topic at that time was already an old hat (I couldn’t know ), and so my distraction maneuver is a little failed. Well then – try makes smart. And also today the boredom grabbed me, and so I decided to shoot a few photos of my previously acquired Volvo article. These are now to be taken from the gradually following attachments. This was exactly the same with my previous cars. Because every time I saw something of the corresponding brand, I had to call it my own. The child in the man – I would mine. And that’s exactly how it got over me with this brand. For about 4 weeks I can’t hold still anymore – and again my eyes focus on everything where Volvo stands on it. And again we order and buy – ztztztz – something crazy!!! But maybe not in peace! there is more of my kind – because only these can understand my behavior a bit. Who has no interest in this post, can say goodbye again. For the one it should interest – here now my small collection of various Volvo articles, which I bought within a period of about 4 weeks: But as I know myself, still more things will follow. The next investments are e.g. the 1:18 models of the C70 (engine type – 85€) and the 850 T 5 R Lim. and Kombi (AutoArt – 90€ each). And – is there anyone else who shares my tick? Greeting ALEX

Hello guys, a week ago I got a very well-preserved Volvo xc90 D5 AWD 6 gear automatic with 185 hp from private. The car has 160000km down and is from the year 2006. We have noticed that the sometimes slightly or sometimes a little stronger jerks when it turns in the 4 gear but only if it is warm and only if you accelerate very slowly up to 50kmh. So if you speed up a little faster or if it is still cold, it is as if nothing is. Does any of you have the same Experienced or similar? Bzw. Can I tell you some tips and tricks? What I’ve already done is, I was at volvo yesterday and had the vehicle connected to the fault diagnosis result 0 errors all top and then I let the current automatic software play on it and had a sample of the gear oil taken to check it for smell, the friendly volvo master said it smells perfectly normal so not burned at all but the color is scho n very dark what would have been normal with the overall running performance, so it definitely got better but not completely away with the jerking. When the master drove after the update Was nothing typical demonstration effect. Should I just continue driving like this or make even more headaches.? I am grateful for every opinion.

Hello together, in last time a lot was written about xenon headlights compared to H7 H4. On my S80 the previous owner Xenon “freezes”, i.e. by means of current thieves ( a total of 17 pieces) the xenon headlights were installed. I first removed only the current thieves ind the cables soldered away. Would you refit despite the better light on H7/H4 or let the built-in Xenon in? Despite the worse light I am hard to think of again on original too early ♪ Greetings ♪

Yes I know, I also read some posts but somehow no approach fits. my problem, had a few construction sites that were gradually worked out the worst thinking I was the coking of the camshaft, which was also cleaned so far, also was made several times a motor flushing as well as the injection, as last then a new throttle flap, new software was played after 2-3 times to let on cords he also again but now I just jerk this,hm Unterdr uck hoses have been renewed candles are io ignition coils io weis no further . Sorry long text

Hello, I have lighted up the message ‘Motor system maintenance required’ in my XC70 D5 Geartronic 185 HP MJ2007 198,000km for a week in the on-board computer. The message did not come every time after the engine start but certainly 90%. Until yesterday I was able to drive normally. I thought after the first show I was driving a few days further what happened and look at a specialist workshop only then. Yesterday I got the Tem on the highway of about 135km/h. and then the message immediately appeared and I couldn’t accelerate any more than the ~95km/h said. Today I was able to drive a higher speed again but to safety only moderated and no more motorway speed. Tomorrow I drive into a Volvo workshop and see if they have time for a reading. My first suspicion since the first message appearance was the flap, but after checking the lever arm I have seen that it is the turn and the small actuator is still working. I had the vertebral valve completely changed at ~100,000km at that time. I searched Motortalk for all possible threads but could nowhere find further problems to the warning message. Since I would like to prepare for tomorrow already, I would be very happy about your feedback. My driving profile consists of ~80% highway and only very little city traffic, so I close once Problems with the DPF regeneration. I have already thought about the AGR valve, but what do you think? Thanks in advance and nice greetings.

Hello I have strong vibrations on the vehicle when I accelerate between 90 and 120 km/h. If I take gas away the vibrations have also disappeared. Under and above the above mentioned speed there is nothing to feel, the steering wheel remains in any case calm. Engine and transmission bearings were made completely new from one year. I already changed the drive shaft on the left because I had the feeling that the vibrations had their origin there. In doing so I found that the shaft in the transmission approx. The shaft can therefore be moved up and down about 5 mm in the built-in condition. It’s probably not normal… If the vibrations come here or someone else has a tip. Thanks and greetings Björn