Category: Volvo S60, S80, V70 2, XC70, XC90 Forum

Hello dear Volvo community! how high is the oil consumption of the D5 e.g. in the V70? Mine now has about 55TKM down and I didn’t have to fill oil yet. For a diesel rather unusual, right? Greetings! MK

Hello, have read all the articles on the topic of water-repellent discs here in the forum that I found. But the opinions are quite different, from really practically to worse than normal discs? I myself don’t have the mentioned discs/mirrors, but find the idea good. Now my question: There are different “wets” in the accessory trade with which a pearl can be achieved (allegedly). Do you have experience with products – what do they do and have the disadvantages? Is the te chnik the same as with the Volvo original discs? Thanks for your answers volvovolvo

Hello Elkgemeinde, my XC 70 is now almost 3 months old, a great car, I am absolutely thrilled ! so far I have with the use of washing machines very restrained, i.e. 1 x a textile (bestcarwash in bochum) used, otherwise only on the self wash boxes with dirt solutions high pressure cleaner, smudges etc. tried, was often powerful salt crusted everything ! P.S. in the osterzgebirge lies more than half a meter snow. How do you do that, my paintr said, as far as possible no loss search, only textile – of which there are unfortunately only few in the east !!??? Who has sealed the paint again and how and where ?? thank you !!!

Hello, I’m trying to bring my neighbor’s Volvo over the Tüv at the moment. The only problem is the value of the Lambda probe. We flashed off at the Tüv 2 weeks ago, partly because of other defects. I ordered all spare parts from Scandix and I was (probably) delivered a false Lambda probe. A Bosch universal with 4 cables. Now I have removed these and found out that these 5 cables have. The one from Bosch has 4. What is the 5th cable for? dwhat I don’t know, it looks like a plug plug, there are only 2 metals or the like to see, what is that for? I didn’t continue to grope, the old probe which looks still good, clean contacts and reinstalled. The car now drives quite differently, much better in response behavior running quiet etc. By means of my 3.99.- OBD adapter and engine data OBD on the mobile phone we then made a test drive to read the values. Lambda is always around 1, as it is monitor probe does not report a problem, error code is not set either, only this one value makes me guessless. Air Krafstoff mixture sensor B1S1: This is mainly at 127mA and sometimes jumps to -128 mA. As I have seen on the graphic, almost a system can be recognized in the jumps. What does that mean? I would order another probe (130.- up) and replace the old one, but I would like to know how such a mistake comes about. of course, if I could install the Bosch after someone told me where the 5th cable had to go. What still surprised me was that this value didn’t appear on the paper at all at the Au two years ago.

Hello I have a Volvo s60 T5 with a Bsr Stage 1 chiptuning on 300 hp as well as a medium silencer atrappe and open sport exhaust from Ulter. The volvo also has powerful power and drives 260 kmh but at the lower speeds it is really very sluggish. Not even if you start with full throttle at a traffic light spin the wheels through only when it rains so at 20 kmh and I just wanted to ask if the T5 is just translated like that or if my has anything. What brutal to me rken is when it’s warm so 25 degrees it has really noticeably less power it goes best at 12 degrees and rain. I’m thinking now if I install a larger load air cooler. Important info it’s an automatic vehicle but even with dtc from no spinning wheels Vlt you can help me further.

Hello together, after my job change, my work path amounts to 60 KM daily (2×30 KM). Of course, I thought about changing my car (change to diesel etc.), but that’s no longer a topic at the moment. I don’t think I can drive more cheaply at the moment (value loss is virtually no longer existing). Currently, the consumption is (real) 7 liters (also calculated at the petrol station), which I am extremely excited about… h not expected, even if I really only drive country road with 80-105 kmh (but also mountainous)…My car is still top in shot, and therefore I have to drive to TKM 500 further (quasi still at least 7 years…), If you know yet an alternative for me, please let me know (grins)…Greet Starfish

Hello, I have been having a start problem with my V70/D5/ year 2002 for a few weeks. The vehicle starts in “cold” condition (morning i.d. underground car park or in the afternoon a.d. company parking) directly without giving gas. However, if the engine has operating temperature, it starts after only a few seconds starter operation and only with additional gas giving. The first diagnosis of my Volvo workshop were the injection nozzles. Supposedly were of the 5 E nozzles, 3 defective. Costs incl. installation for all 5 E nozzles. 2000 €. I then brought the vehicle to a well-known car master in the workshop. He explained to me that there is an alternative to the Kpl. exchange of the e-nozzles. Thus it is quite possible to have the nozzles repaired at Bosch. The costs for this are approx. 150 € / nozzle and thus about half the costs for a new nozzle (approx. 300 €). Afterwards the e-nozzles were expanded and brought to a Bosch-representation in Bonn for testing. The result was, d ate none of the nozzles was defect and therefore the hot start problem must have a different cause. I would like to point out at this point that I was released from my Volvo workshop because I was not informed there about this possibility of checking or reworking the nozzles. As a further possibility for the start problems was mentioned by my friend still the starter. This was aucih already recognized at another place in the forum as cause for warm start problems. Anschli I had a new starter installed, which meant that the start problems for a short period of time (about 1 week) disappeared, but then they reappeared the same way as before the starter exchange. Meanwhile, I am so ociously frustrated, since I have invested a total of about 700 € in the removal of the problem until now, without any success. If someone has the same problem or someone has an idea of how to eliminate the problem. I have no problem with this car so far. obleme had and otherwise I am super satisfied with the vehicle.

Hello, I hope someone can help me with my problem here. Auto data Volvo v70ll Built 2002, 103kw suction cup, km stand 215500. I have the following problem: under load ( while driving ) the oil control now starts after 500m and the indicator to turn off too little oil pressure engine. What was done: Tüv relevant had to be changed the cam adjustment gear (strong oil loss), here the timing belt was changed with water pump. After this work about 30km later the problem started with the Ölk oil change – error still there, new oil change with scrubbing – error still there, again oil change ( all with filter ) – error still there was now filter and oil clean. Pressure switch changed in the same time – error still there. Oil pan removed / final flow channels clean ( full oil coal ), oil channels controlled, oil trap changed (was ram to) valve from the oil filter housing as well as all O rings at the oil pan changed. Built together, in condition run over long time also ma l 10min at 3500 rpm everything is good, test drive after approx. 500m control on, car from again to everything i.o. after 500m again the same. Oil pressure switch removed, measuring clock installed – in the condition as before all i.o. oil pressure as prescribed, test drive after 500m oil pressure 0, car from again to oil pressure again there for 500m. No chips found in the tub which indicate damage to the bearings, and also no unnatural noise. Now my question: Why does the oil pressure go only after 500m load (whether cold or warm) and where can there be pump? Storage? I hope someone can help me.

Hello dear Dickelch driver! Last month I bought a 3 year old XC90 year 01/2006 out of the leasing and read as often in this forum problems with rubbing brakes especially when braking lightly.Had this led back to a longer service life for the first time.The problems have probably been fixed in 2006 with a mileage of 28700 by the previous owner in a workshop. If one compares the brake discs at the front and at the rear, of course, it falls to the front flash-blank while the rear discs are usually a bit rusty, which, in my opinion, is more to the general, as well as load-dependent brake force distribution two thirds in front to a third behind.Unless the outer lining is not properly applied due to a defect of the rear brake tongs. and the brake at the rear looks one-sided, which naturally comes with a stronger wear of the inner brake lining as well as one-sided terrestrial load of the brake disc. So far to the theory…..Before I am led by the “friendly” behind the light again, I just set this problem here and hope for your help as well as suggestions for solutions. MfG !

Dear community, my OHL and I each drive a V70II T5 (Bauj. 6/2000 u. 3/2002 Aut.) with 190,000 and 202,000 km on the clocks. I carry with the thought both at Wetterauer(make a good impression on the homepage) allow to optimize on approx. 275hp. I admittedly not very technical and wanted to ask you about your experiences (good and bad), or tips or also concerns. I only drive fast if the train is free (this is here in the area of Cologne sel the case or there are speed limits and my better half enjoys the acceleration with their moose (if it has to be faster). On the whole we are not drivers who constantly go to the power limit of the vehicle. Thank you already! forzaandre