Category: Volvo S60, S80, V70 2, XC70, XC90 Forum

After 850 TDI and V70II 2.5D I am now very interested in the XC90 D5 Sport Model 07. The car has run about 250Tkm up to 230Tkm checkheft maintained (with Volvo) switch 6 gear. Of course has the Kpl. Sport equipment including Bixenon etc. The car should cost 10,5T€. Is the price in your opinion right? what should you pay attention to when running?. Engine is dry, shock absorber has already been front e renewed, clutch and pressure bearing has also been changed. What do you mean, is the offer ok? Thank you already

Hello to you for the first time ! I’m new here in the forum and would like to introduce myself briefly I come from Vienna and drive a great Volvo V70II 2.5 TDi with the Audi engine and with km 242,000, but since last night my car makes me again tremble and worry ….. Now to the problem : Since yesterday evening I was able to find a squeaking in the Berreich between Lima and servo pump a shock it grinds and crackles from the above mentioned Berreich… It neither lights up the mot orcontrol or the battery symbol which makes me stutzig. What expensive fun will this be ???? Since I am a young family father I have to drive a bissi bangen with the moose somewhere. I hope for your advice and tips, would be very pleased! Lg from the beautiful Vienna

Moin Together The Edition Sport year 2006-2007 is based on the Bi-Xenon list.I am currently driving an A4 Avant Bj.99 and the Xenon looks so different.Can anyone help me? Here is the picture of the V70, which I have a hard eye on(a Edition Sport year 2007)

Hello, our Volvo S 80, built 06-2002, has normal dipped light, that is H7 55 W. The night before yesterday, when driving off, suddenly the yellow warning light went on and I have since on the display the display “Abblend light defective”. In fact, the dipped light remains on the right side. I have checked the following: All other lamps work, so also the main light and the fog lamps on the right. The two light bulbs of the dipped light left and right and the fuses are in Ordnu ng. I measured the following values in the fuse box in the engine compartment: fuse 18 (headlight left) 11.58 V, fuse 17 (headlight right) 0.04 V. I also measured directly on the headlight, where identical values arrive. Lights out: Both values jump to 0.00 V. Who can give me a tip. If I drive to the “friendly” one, the troubleshooting there already exceeds my budget. Are there perhaps upstream relays that can be exchanged on an experimental basis? Fa lls yes, where are these relays located? Thank you already now, many greetings and good drive your Walter Tagora

Hello together, look for help in the form of someone who can offer a Dice in Schleswig Holstein near Neustadt Lübecker Bight. Of course, during today’s holiday drive from the Sauerland to the Baltic Sea first the message maintenance engine system is necessary and later the engine control light is also addressed. Restart brings the error immediately again. Engine has little power and runs in the emergency program. The decision on the half track is in favor of the continuation and fortunately auc But now of course the laptop with the Dice is at home and so I am dependent on foreign help. At least the first diagnosis before any people with half-knowledge grope about it. A good workshop recommendation or screwdriver is of course also welcome, because now next to the diagnostic device of course also the tool at home slumbers. Serious noise does not make the engine. LMM I have already plugged off, but showed no effect. No flaps or rattles only with the acceleration one hears a noise at the front under load….but no whistle from the turbo or something. Bad to describe…rather after drive but then “maintenance engine system..” does not fit so properly, right? Well, if someone can and wants to help….. Gruss Andreas

Hello guys, I’m new to the forum and I need your help urgently. I drive a Volvo v70/2 Combi Built 2002, 2.0T with 180 Ps and 270tkm on the speedometer. Problem: Last week I got message “Motor system maintenance required”. My small readout device showed that throttle flap would hang. The car runs only in emergency program and can not drive over 2000 revolutions. Also in idle mode (if you press gas to stop) it comes laboriously only up to 2300 revolutions. Since I have the I ordered a new throttle flap at Polarparts.de and renewed the old one. I jammed the battery in front of it and stuck it up after installation and reset the errors. Unfortunately, nothing has changed. The Volvo continues to run on only 2 cylinders and the same error message comes back again. My question: Must the throttle flap be specially learned on my model and if yes, how does m to that exactly??? I’m pretty desperate and ask for help. Hope I have described the problem well. Short tip: all 5 spark plugs are new, as well as ignition coils too. Thank you in advance. Nenadius

Hello dear Volvo fans, I changed my head gasket for Easter (cooling water consumption).XC90 D5 200PS I also changed the flaps and the tube of the crankcase ventilation. Leak oil pipe of the injection nozzles also new. Everything again together and in its place. Complete suction track cleaned(sucked out) Unfortunately I had not immediately noticed that the pipe of the gas return to the exhaust cooler did not sit properly. We drove a few kilometers with it, my wife was Then I wanted to collect my son and motor went down into the emergency run with an indication of Orange’s warning triangle and emergency run. At home I heard then that the exhaust gas recirculation is leaking. Vida said: ECM 1507 Turbo Control-Too low pressure ECM 1517 Turbo Controll-Too high pressure I changed the pipe and deleted the fault memory. Now everything tight and also full power there, but when I drive in 6 gear 1800 revolutions it starts at jerkeli It’s like both tires have a little bump that runs exactly paralel. If you get gas it’s right away you go completely off the gas it’s also way. If you turn down it’s lower there. After the ride no mistake to find with Vida. Do you have an idea in which direction I could look for? Vida in English is there. I think it’s more like a smaller otherwise gäbs yes an error message. I hope for ideas and if someone knows and tell me k Where it comes from would be the biggest for me. MfG Christian

Hello all, help, I’m desperate. The DSTC problem makes me gurdy! My Volvo V 70 II D5 reported sporadically DSTC Anti Skid OFF (lenkrad angle sensor off). Was not a problem in itself because after restarting DSTC was OK again. Then the messages piled up and went over into brake assistant, maintenance required and anticle lube control maintenance required The diagnostic device I906 showed error BCM-140 pedal pressure sensor. After deletion of the error DSTC was OK again, until the next actuator So that was clear. Now I thought I had the error. https://www.dtcdecode.com/Volvo/BCM-0140 The pedal pressure sensor is located in the power brake booster But then the error 140 in the diagnostic device no longer reported (cold soldering point on the sensor?) , the DSTC was OK for a few kilometers. Then again OFF! I guess several problems at the same time! I looked through the Volvo Forum intensively. The DSTC is influenced by many components. To my knowledge from: Greed rate sensor under centre console (deleting problem) Cross-acceleration sensor next to greed rate sensor (deleting problem) Brake pressure (ways) sensor on brake power amplifier/low pressure box (left long part) (deleting problem) Steering wheel angle sensor (wear) Wheel wreath and sensor on each wheel (sensor or wheel wreath break) Two pressure sensors on the brake cylinder (both, due to redundancy, should provide the same bar-values BCM module (deleting problem), etc. I was able to exclude the wheel sensors, the pressure sensors, the steering wheel angle sensor. With the protocol as PDF. Now I have the following questions to you about the protocol. • The value of the accelerometer is immutable, outside the standard . Accelerometer signal -81.96m/s2 (cross-acceleration is displayed correctly) (On another Volvo this value of the accelerometer is displayed correctly, so no error in the diagnostic device) Where is this device? speedometer? Is it identical to the transverse acceleration sensor in the centre console?) • The two pressure sensors on the pressure cylinder give correct values. In the diagnostic tool, however, 2 pressure sensor 1, offset 1.30bar pressure sensor 2, offset -1.55bar invariably displayed. Is the offset sensors at all, are these values relevant? • Even if the error BCM-140 is not currently displayed in the diagnostic device, it still reports in the data evaluation “Status of the Ped aldrucksensors —– Er- (shall be called error) What do you think? Is the error from a combination of the pedal pressure sensor (actually pedal travel sensor) and the accelerometer (where located?) to be seen? I am looking forward to your answers

Hello together, after longer research (also in this forum) I suspect defective injectors as a cause – the car is currently at the Bosch service and I have the fear that they have not listened to me or wanted to listen and first check everything else (and charge) before they do a return test at all. Problem: Half a year ago at -5 degrees did not jump in for the first time. ADAC arrived – with start pilot he jumped directly. Then glow plugs new, battery new, cooling tteltempsensor tested. Then it was everything, but it was never so cold again… Now he did not jump up to 0 degrees in the cold.. still only with start pilot. For 1 year always light sooting at full gas – especially after longer “snow ride”. At cold temp. on the first meters gaaaaanz give light jerking at gaaaanz light gas. Performance otherwise fully there. Diesel filter was replaced – was already overdue – problem still there. A user here in the forum once said that his Mec haniker said that when the rail pressure starts cold, the D5 is less than 200bar, otherwise higher. I followed this “acceptance” and stuck a 800Ohm resistor into the plug from the coolant sensor, i.e. simulated a cooling water temperature of 47°C (according to OBD verified). The engine starts immediately! Is this so that it drives a higher rail pressure directly when the engine is warm? My guess is that it only gets enough fuel to start with a leaky injector. please check the screenshots – especially if the start speed is too low with a cold engine. That’s what the Bosch service wanted to tell me first… Thank you in advance! gruss Axel

Engine bearing D5 renews Good morning! On the basis of the above-mentioned left visible – I used the SuFu 😉 ….but still found nothing conclusive. Lt. my , and also my own feeling, is one of the engine bearing defective. I don’t know which. Since my elk has already run 240Tkm, (and I think the replacement of the defective bearing may help, but according to experience the others come after in a short time) I want to replace all 3 bearings immediately. my question is: Can you change the engine bearings yourself? I don’t have a great workshop equipment or Volvo special tools at my disposal. Does the engine have to be completely out or is it enough to lift it (somehow)? Do I have to pay attention to something. What needs to be dismantled (drives; axles;…..)? Is there a construction manual somewhere? Thank you in advance for tips, advice, Notes……