Category: Volvo with rear wheel drive Forum

Hello all, recently I bought my dream car: Volvo 960 2.5 year 1995. It has only 125,000km of mileage. I noticed a small problem: in the stationary gas it jerks very easily, the speed needle moves up and down minimally. (almost not visible). More serious is that in the 1st course at low speed a real power hole occurs. i.e. I give gas and have the feeling that the engine swallows or it happens completely nothing. But this occurs only at low speed. The car has just received a fresh inspection including the change of all relevant filters. In addition, the workshop has found that the air supply or the plastic/rubber lines which air lead to the engine are porous. These have already been changed, unfortunately the problem has not been solved. There are no control lights on in the car. Autobahnfahrt etc. is all wonderful. What should I research (leave). I am baffled. Sorry my incompetent mail, i I have little idea of cars or the right terms. Thank you for any help. Christian

Hello, I’ve been reading here in the forum for some time now and I have a problem with myself. It’s about a Volvo 960 2.9 24V (204hp). The engine makes funny noises and I don’t know why. If you just tap the gas for a short time, the engine turns up once, then a drop-off comes and then it turns a bit higher. (Hope you see this on the video at the end. There the engine turns up two times in a row, although the throttle has only been opened for a short time.) and the valves were very loud. Workshop said that this would be normal. A week ago a new noise was added. It’s almost like a diesel engine. I localized it with (near) the water pump. It can’t lie on the belt, I degraded it for testing. The belt tensioner is also gone, but as long as it still rotates the inside remains. The consumption is also far too high (18-20L/100km). What can this be? Is the water pump broken? Now he has 204,000 on the clock, so soon would be on it again. I already did: – camshaft sensor – motor oil – servo oil scrubbing – spark plugs – air filter – cooling water – thermostat – gear oil compression measurement (ca 11-12 bar per cylinder) ECU –> no errors (1-1-1)http://www.vidup.de/v/faDrm/ Greeting Julian

Hello & good morning, on a motorway ride yesterday I noticed a slight “wummering” during my 240er. The recurring, sonorous hum occurs in the speed range between 120 and 140 KM/H and can be heard in this area always at the same time distance, so probably rather not depending on speed. (Sound picture attempt: Woooom pause Woooom pause… ) It is to be heard in 5th gear and disappears when I decouple in the mentioned speed range. In 4th gear could I don’t reproduce the hum, because the engine is just too loud. Since the noise disappears when uncoupled, you can probably exclude the tires as a cause. Is this noise (which then probably comes from the direction of the drive train?…) “normal”, i.e. a 240-typical form of self-resonance, or do I have any problem with the cardan shaft/the gearbox? The hum is not very loud, you can only hear it when all the windows are closed and the music is off. r a little advice, Dieter

After the report in the AutoBild Klassik about the classic manufactory and its Volvo`s I noticed something in the net…. and I asked myself how an elk can beat an Audi RS4 on the eighth mile?!?!?https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=inceu8yNjp4 The Audi has the double power and all-wheel and the elk has a very tired 6-end with just 204 hp and it is faster than the Audi…..?!? Now I want to know…..finds very much interesting….

Good day together. I have a 964 model year 92 and it burns me two questions under my nails. First, when the engine runs out of the ceiling light.When you start and accelerate it stops.This phenomenon makes me crazy. Can someone bring light into the dark? And in the vehicle light I have entered 215/45 17 inches Dunlop and Pirelli mature.But nothing about the rims.What rims do you have to run without having to run to the tuv? Alas and left next to the steering wheel is a The symbol is like an ypsilon with continuous beam. The moose is a 3 liter with 145tkm and naturally richer equipment. I would be very grateful if someone could help me because the googel on the topics was not very successful.

What did you expect from the Forum, here’s our problem: Volvo 940 with B230FB engine Launched and always ran perfectly, no jerking or any signs of a malfunction 4 weeks ago, the engine went off after 15 seconds and can’t be started again Investigation of the TCS (Swiss ADAC) came to the conclusion, it must be either the ignition module or at most the crankshaft sensor defective Both components we replaced one after the other, no success. New ignition coil, the same image. Candle from the distributor directly to mass: candle of ignition coil directly to mass: It arises when starting (key position 3) a single (weak) ignition spark and then no more?? On key position 2 (operation) the candle constantly sparks. Voltage at the ignition coil on key position 2: 12.7V Voltage at the ignition coil on key position 3: 10.5V ignition cables are measured, OK. Candles OK, electrode distance is running 000. Fuel pump is running. This situation was right before we replaced with a crankshaft sensor and ignition coil the car did not want to be perfect?

Hello together, I brought my 740 with B230ft bj. 1990 (approx. 175 000 km) a few weeks ago the engine completely disassembled connecting rod new piston new crankshaft to grind (with the pistons I have chosen a lower thickening because I might want to increase the power even a little bit) Turbocharger also got a new fuselage group running smoothly. Now to my problem It starts with a fairly low speed (approx.500 u/min) goes off and off Also when I give gas it turns very sluggishly high to a maximum of 1000-1500 u/min After about 1 min at 1500 u/min the curved and the turbo starts to glow. My first approach was that it runs too lean and therefore burns too hot but the Blinkbox also doesn’t spit a fault from Lamda indicator lights up but also does not apply to fuel at the injection nozzles also with good pressure. If someone still has one on what it might be or what I could still check ? Thanks in advance

Good evening The trunk at my Amazon can no longer be opened. I closed the trunk cover completely normal and also not closed. There must be a possibility or a trick to open it again without using violence. I can not imagine that I am the only one with this problem or was. Already now many thanks Greeting Albert

Good evening Community, I have the following problem with my volvo. Volvo 240, first registration 1990 engine b230f Manual. Engine jumps cold and warm bad At cold start when the engine lights up once every time it runs on 3 cylinders. Even if the 4 cylinders does not run warm the 4 cylinders is not with. The following has been done. Error codes no ignition checked ok4 cylinders also ignite relay fuel pump OK Both pumps run 4 injection nozzles new temperature sensor new intake manifold seal new control times ok fuses checked I have the feeling that injection control device is defective. can I measure it? I can think of it almost differently!!

Two things bother me extremely at our station wagon. 1. under load, when torque is on, the thing starts rubbing, So far I have changed all engine bearings, hardy disk, middle bearing of the cardan shaft, the rumors comes from the middle of the rear. In high gears it is more extreme, as the moment is on. 2. when driving without load the noise background is very loud in the range 2000-knapp4000. To the vehicle, 945 FT from 1/94, 245,000KM charging pressure about 1.1 bar, medium-pretentious hail damage. Certainly done more than basic maintenance. All liquids, distributors, candles, timing belts, wapu, all hoses water Do88, brakes complete, pump relays, enstörrelais… Actually everything to 2. I can imagine a tense exhaust system. Plan would be a VA of Rakarör to mount, as long as I 2. do not get into the grip, but I will not waste any further thought and yet prefer one of our Saab further so, what can it be, that under this load comes to rubbing with HA. Thanks for the aim!