I would like to describe the following (for data protection reasons) fictitious case person A brings his car with no more than 12,000 kilometers ran for the second inspection. In the workshop a list is read of the things that are pending at the second inspection. Person A asks the employee B workshop type, why some parts are changed or cleaned at all during the low driving performance. Person A did not agree to the optional replacements and cleanings and thus could reduce the invoice by 1/4 and still has the same claim as before. Conclusion ! You should be really careful when your vehicle has run only a few kilometers. Hyundai offers you some replacement parts during your inspections, which are not necessary with low driving performance. Some workshops do not point out that some parts can be changed optionally, s onders simply calculate fully for this and thus collect vast amounts of money.
Category: Hyundai Forum
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Sonata automatic problem
Hello dear Hyundaians I have a problem with my 96 Sonata 2.0i 16V 102kw (139ps).The automatic transmission seems to be in the emergency run (remains in a gear), a little as if the “coupling” slips through. Reverse gear works perfectly. Has this happened to anyone before? What causes the control electronics to run emergency run? Converter damage? Solenoid valves clogged or broken? How do I get the machine out of the emergency run again? irepresent or can I do it myself? For example, do ignition on/off in a certain interval or battery depend for a certain time? Does someone here who prescribes or recommends Oel Hyundai at this machine? So enough questions for today, I hope it answers me one or a… Greetings to the forum
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Trajet engine just goes off
Hello forum experts, I once have a stupid question about my Trajet Bj 2001, CRDi, 113 hp: it usually stands more than it is driven. In September he had, however, made a violent tour with 2 x 1500 km behind him and the engine sounded scratchy and somehow unhealthy afterwards. However, since he has driven without any problems, I did nothing further. Until someone told me to have oil tested and tipped up. I also let do (knapper liter of engine oil was missing), e r sounded a little better – but after half an hour of driving plus 10 minutes parking, he didn’t let himself start again. Only when I had waited for the ADAC for 20 minutes (cooled down?), it suddenly went again. That continued like this: start without any problems and drive away, after about 10 minutes (warm?) he just went out again. Gladly at short stops in front of red lights *joy* and then can be started again only minutes later. I have come to the conclusion that you can shorten the engine aube opens (cool?) – goes faster until you can start again. I have now had a complete oil change done. Already on the return trip once again went out. And a few days later the engine lamp does not run out after starting. What can that be? I have no idea if what has to do with the oil change at all or was pure chance or is outside temperature-dependent. I already thought about frozen diesel (is still 75%Summer diesel v on September when I had refueled 12 l of winter diesel in November) – but I am already a lantern parker and then should have had problems at the start. Do you have an idea?
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i40 1st gear goes hard in
Hello, have my i40 now almost 4 weeks and he has now about 2800km on the clock. Unfortunately, the difficult insertion of the 1st gear did not take place. All other gears flood in without problems, except for the 2nd gear, which sometimes needs some emphasis when switching down from the 3rd to the 2nd gear. But this happens only very rarely. Only the 1st gear is often very stubborn. It doesn’t matter whether the car is standing or rolling easily. Sometimes the 1st gear does not go in when standing. I have to get off the clutch and kick it again in order to be able to put the gear in. I was hoping that it was the new gearbox and that there was after the start-up phase, but it doesn’t look like improvement. So I wanted to know if you have similar problems with your i40 or if this is more of a case for the workshop. It’s always really annoying not to know if the gear at the traffic light is going in now or not.
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My H-1 accelerates independently in the roundabout. Reproducible!
Hello community, so far I hadn’t talked about it, because I thought that if you tell someone, then come and get yourself. But now I just had a brittle situation on a supermarket parking lot again. The problem persists since the first registration of my automatic H-1 in 2/2012: I leave the parking lot of my bank with a warm engine and roll about 40 meters in step speed to the narrow roundabout, which I have to circle around once completely. After a quarter of a distance, the motor starts to increase the speed independently and sustainably. A switching process does not take place. The surprise moment ends after approx. 3-4 seconds without further intervention. The speed reached is then actually already too high for the roundabout exit. This process can be repeated at any time. There seems to be some connection between the danger On several occasions I had tried to recreate the situation in an empty parking lot, but I only managed to do so twice. Unfortunately, the parking lot was well occupied this morning and I had not even thought about the self-acceleration. Anyway, I could slow down in time. Do you have an idea about cause and effect. With my workshop, I would be very interested in the topic very much. After all, I can’t prove anything. Greetings and good driving Rüdiger
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Hyundai Accent 1.3 GS Speed problems
Hello, Since my Golf 4 1.9 TDI had not been worth repairing, I bought a Hyundai Accent from 2001 with 75hp and 1.341L engine. The Hyundai has 118,000Km and I had the clutch re-made (it has slipped extremely, an old lady drove). The engine runs well, it also starts immediately. But I have a few little problems with the speed: 1: When I let mountain roll off the car (whether uncoupled or gear in it and clutch pressed) the speed rises without obvious reason on 2,000 rpm. 2: If I drive towards a traffic light and push the clutch over 2,000 rpm and stop the speed goes up to 1,500-2,000 rpm and again down to stand gas. 3: Sometimes in the stand it goes out or can almost not escape from the run. (Kam until now vll. 4 times before) It’s hard to explain, you know. If it should have landed in the wrong forum please move. I am happy with the Hyundai, only that makes with the speed The Hyundai now cost me 1500€ with new clutch and has almost euen Tüv, did I throw out the money ? Hope someone knows the reason or can give me tips. MfG. Matze
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new Jazz 1.5 with CVT or manual circuit?
Hello together, as jazz interests I plan to buy the new Jazz with 1.5l & 130hp, but can not decide with regard to gearboxes (CVT or manual circuit). I drive 75% highway. Since I am not a lead driver and I only need the performance during overtaking operations (e.g. quick overtaking of trucks or grannies) I think about a Jazz with CVT transmissions. The high speed volume under full load would not bother me at all. What would bother me is the Leis This is why I have the following questions: – How is the elasticity (80-120km/h) of CVT gears? – How is the consumption of CVT compared to manual gears? – Is the power below full load better than manual gears with CVT overtaking maneuvers because the motor is constantly at maximum speed? – Are the maintenance costs of CVT higher than manual gears? – How is the service life or reliability of CVT gears? – Does a CVT fit? to the 130hp aggregate or is this constellation still depressing in performance? – There are no reports with the new Jazz and CVT. Could one therefore assume that the driving tracks of the new Jazz are similar to the driving performances of the HR-V with 130 & CVT? – What other main advantages does a CVT have compared to the handshift (higher resale value) I am also more the comfortable driver than the sporty one. but on the other hand I can do without a CVT transmission, should the automatic cause too high power losses. What is your opinion on this? Thank you very much!
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Jazz FL 2018 Image
With the modified rear apron I now gradually like it again – the jazz! If one had now still built retro-reflectors (=cat eyes) and the return lights into the black, lower two slits, it would be perfect for ME! The picked up side skirts do not go n.m.M. either! How do you think other jazzers about it?
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Selling Honda Jazz 1.4 150,000 km?
Hello Motor Talk Community, I currently own a Honda Jazz 1.4 l with the year 2004 (so only the “first of the 2nd Gen.” pre Facelift), which I took over a few months ago from my parents. So far the car was really reliable and you notice in some places the 10 years (consumption increases, it consumes more oil, etc…) but basically it is still good in shot. Unfortunately, my parents did not run the service booklet very carefully and I don’t know we In addition, the car has already 150.000 km on the hump (live here very rural… Many long distances) Now I’m just a bit in the mess that soon something bigger could come and I just don’t have the money to make it (everything over 300-400 EUR). Then I would stand there without a car and without money. If I can sell it now I might get enough money with a little luck to get a little older, But on the other hand, the car has always been true to me and my family, and it’s also practical… Sure, it’s really not a sporty car, what you want when you’re 18 years old, but that’s really very secondary… Now I’m going to turn to the community: What do you think… Should I really think about a sale, or should I think about it? You’re going to drive until you can’t do it anymore? Thank you in advance. Yours sincerely, DMCKITT
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Brakes Jazz
Hi, have a Jazz 1.4 Built. 2002 83PS 7100/533 am looking for brake discs and linings for the front axle disc brakes, but for the key number 7100/533 there are 2 different diameters of the brake discs 1. 240mm 2. 258mm How do I know which ones I need???? Also for the linings see here http://www.teilehaber.de/brake lining-disk brake-id51367740.html andhttp://www.teilehaber.de/brake lining-disk brake-id44783491.html Lg