Category: Hyundai Electric Vehicles Forum

Hello, I’m currently driving an i30 intro edition with 99ps gasoline and I thought about it, because I’m already a couple of kilometers in a row, to fix a new car for 2020. since diesel is currently being talked quite in the ground I thought that a hybrid wouldn’t be bad and therefore I came across the ioniq because all the others (bmw etc) are extremely expensive. however, I don’t understand, even with my small 99ps air pump I have a maximum speed of 182km/h in the distance but the ioniq has a 140ps gasoline in it and also “only” 185km/h in it. does that have what to do with the matures or is the motor just locked off because of the battery? otherwise someone has experiences with the ioniq in how much he is doing well in consumption with city and highway? PS: what do you think of hybrid vs diesel? because per se I would rather buy a diesel but rather think about it through the whole diesel based it on short or long for priv Attitudes will be very bad.

Hello, does anyone know the delivery times of the Hyundai Ionic Hybrid? Think about getting a car like this. Don’t know if I should buy a car other than diesel or gasoline. In any case, it should have an automatic transmission. That’s a must. And the Ionic has this and some other nice features. I would get it in a good equipment for under 24,000€ incl. transfer. Greeting Bertus

Hello, today on the highway I had a rather unpleasant experience: Suddenly the yellow HEV system warning lamp lit up and in the display it was logical that the HEV system had to be checked. You should turn the vehicle off and on again and/or(?) drive to the workshop to check. Nicely equipped with a flashing red frame… I then drove off from the highway, switched the vehicle off and on again and everything ran again. The UVO app currently shows a green hook on the hybrid system. Has this ever happened to someone?

Hey. What I was wondering. I set my Kona E so that it stops charging from 80%. However, I’m wondering what’s better for the battery now. Drive it down every time up to about 25/30% and then charge it again or charge it when it fits. You have 67% in the battery and it just fits and recharges again to 80% the next time then at 53% etc.

Good day, I have a problem with my Kona E. When I turn off the car (brake actuated, ignition off) usually everything works great. P is inserted and everything is off. I now make a door open one hears a mechanical noise (parkbreme?) Sometimes, however, it happens that when the door is opened, this mechanical noise does not occur. Instead, the car beeps continuously. Even after the occasionally unlocking it beeps me as soon as the door is opened. P is inserted, and everything is “visible”. I was already at the dealer. There they could not notice anything at first. Later on, probably, that the Navi is not in “sleep” condition. The software has been updated. Later in the evening I had the same problem again. Does anyone have experience with the same problem? It is really only about 20-30 percent at the appearance. I don’t change anything at the speed of the button or similar. Let me have enough time. The technicians have no idea at present and therefore the question here.

If you want to save yourself a cup of coffee this morning to get your blood pressure up, you can read the following article: https://www.heise.de/…/…Test-Winter-without-E range-5054912.html I didn’t suspect such a nonsense at heise.de… Have fun reading! Kubi

Hello, I now also call a Kona Electro 39kWh my own and am very satisfied with it. For the short distances as a second car the vehicle is ideal. However, I have repeatedly noticed a very strong deviation between the consumption determined by the on-board computer and the current flow measured by the current meter (before the wall box) when charging. After a full charge to 100% I drove e.g. 150 km. The on-board computer calculated over the distance a consumption of 13.3 kWh / 100 km. The battery level was then still 49%. This fits together, because 1.5 * 13.3 = 19.95 kWh corresponds to about 51% of the battery capacity. At the subsequent full charge (single-phase on a 22kW wallbox in the setting “minimal” = approx. 18.5A / 4.2 kW) the current meter over the charging time of fairly exactly 6 hours counted about 26 kWh. With a target of 19.95 kW the charging losses are thus around 23% (19.95 / 26 = 0.77). With previous measurements I measured similar high losses. How can this be?

The title says it: Has anyone already ordered a Kona electric?

Hello, at the moment with Prius mobil, my better half was able to gain experience and interest in 1 1/2 EMobility with me. Well, an I3, just like I drive it, she just doesn’t like it, but purely from the optics she has forgotten in the Ionic. Now on Saturday we would like to go to the friendly Hyundai dealer, actually with the aim to transfer that desire to the reality. Unfortunately I lack a little background to exactly this car. The hybrids are I’ve already been driving a test… chic car. What should I consider with the BEV variant, as far as I know, she has a facelift with an enlarged battery behind her. It’s supposed to be a red trend…. where should I put a cross in the accessories, what should I pay attention to. What real range can you speculate on (it can always only charge a car at home), how does he beat on longer motorway stages, which the lady of the house does not necessarily want to do again in the I3? rz und gut: She has a daily work journey of 80 to 150 km (total from front door to homecoming), drives on the BAB also times 120 to 130, Do you think that she is right with her choice from a technical point of view?

Hello, we have the following additional information about the axle load distribution in kg: axle load front axle load rear With unladen weight incl. driver with 75 kg: 736 759 With additional weight: 842-860 1020-1038 Maximum permissible axle load: 970 1050 Concerning the axle load distribution empty, 2 or 4 people the manufacturer does not provide any information. The Hyundai Ioniq electric is arg hecklastig, similar to the Ford Focus electric.