Category: Kia Ceed, ProCeed & XCeed Forum

Good day together, we hope for some help and tips here. At our Kia Ceed as described above the battery is drained. Today the diagnosis got, the troubleshooting was stopped. On 2 fuses were found 0.1 and on the other 0,8 amps in the stand. The search turns out very hard. Would like to give up our car now, because it still does not cause any problems. Car is from 2012 and has run only 62,000km and owns almost everything. our question: Did someone already have this problem with the creep current and can give us tips. Next week I should get more information exactly which fuses creep current contain Thank you :-).

Hello in the round, that you can get much more out of the Cee’d / Proceed, you can get from my signature. But now to the actual reason of the thread. I have received several requests from private person and tuners, for the purpose of optimization, but mainly for the 1.6 T-GDI engine. In cooperation, we have already found for the 1.5 & 1.6 T-GDI engine each 5/5 people, who get an optimization at half price, but for this on their ride ug for 1 week must do without. Thus, it is possible to ensure an individual coordination, also in comparison for a software optimization from the bar, which does not go to the limits, but is noticeable. The optimization is of course created by professional professional staff (Dipl. Ing.) which are also represented at the Nürburgring. The question would now be which services are desired. Here you have been asked now. What is your desired performance ? We would be if possible What we currently have in mind, on express customer request: – Optimization Stage 1 (software + air filter) – Optimization Stage 1+ (software + air filter + flap system) – Optimization Stage 2 (stage 1+ plus downpipe) – Processing of the press-on pressure – Machining of the switching processes – Processing of the gear control (DCT farts) – Processing of the push-off (Pops&Bangs) Where would your interest lie? So you have the possibility to play / remove it from your home.

Hello, I have a Kia Xceed 1.4L 140Ps BJ.2020 with 25 000km. I noticed when I had a longer motorway yesterday, which my Xceed almost permanently “breaks out” to the right us left and I always have to keep it active by correcting in the track which is sometimes almost dangerous, especially if you are currently driving past a truck and he suddenly steers out of nowhere to the right.(Of course not so much that he changes the track directly, but if I don’t correct w This also happens on the straight line, but sometimes he runs straight out normally, probably depending on the nature of the road. Otherwise I drive more urban traffic and on the expressway up to 100km/h where he has already spongy felt to me, but not to the extent. I looked yesterday on the internet a little bit if I find something about what this can be and I think that it is due to the track/sturz setting that he is strongly on road uneven This is not the case, but I do not think that there are any faults in braking. Would you confirm that, or would you like to be able to do so? at someone another idea about what this can be? As well as what an axle measurement with track/sturz setting costs ca? Of course, I will soon be able to pass by my workshop.

1st HFI AirIntake Upgrade Kit 2. Connector 50mm x 150mm (if necessary 54x150mm, insecure) problems the “2nd connector” …. This one has now said goodbye for the 4 times. The last time HD bolt clamps came up. Just, on the A4 I wanted to give gas and bring the 1.6 bar on the road. At about 234km/h it then literally made BOOM-TZZZ… hose torn off again from the connector… I already g wonders why there was no performance… Does 260+ actually drive (according to Tacho) Now the question to you… Does that happen all the time? Would it be better to use a continuous silicone hose?https://cherrytuning.com.au/products/intercooler-resonator-delete-hose Does anyone happen to have the concrete dimensions of it? Can’t it be that he constantly says goodbye….

Hello together, I have a question. As a woman, I don’t really understand so much about it and wanted to get some advice from you. I’m about to decide to buy a young used Xceed. I have two offers one with 140 hp and one with 204 hp. Both same equipment, approx. kilometers, BJ etc… Of course in the price these differ by 1,300 €. Someone said to me that it is better for me to buy one with 140 hp, because this is more durable since I have a type I’m driving his car to the end and not buying a new one every few years. Can you confirm this like this? Since I tend to do something with more PS.. To get faster from the spot. But if this is really not so long-lasting then of course I would rather save the money and take the one with 140 HP. What do you think? Many dear greetings 🙂

Hello, I have seen an offer for a Ceed 1.6 plug-in hybrid of 4/2021 with only 10k km of mileage (approx. 21k€). Disadvantage is that the maintenance has not been done, so no manufacturer warranty is available anymore. Price-wise it moves for example with other models with comparable equipment and approx. 60k km of mileage and approx. 3-4 years of residual warranty. The dealer offers (full) dealer warranty for two years (pronounced up to the age of 5 years). Now the feeling of warranty is always a very good one, wear parts etc. are excluded in the reverse end and then you might pay on it with the more runn vehicle. I am a little driver, i.e. rather 7,500km a year, so I would have the hope anyway that initial diseases would occur within the next two years and the car then survives the rest of the time with low risk. What is your opinion about this? guarantee or take this with you as a good offer?

Hello, I’m back. Just in the car dealership they took the anticipation of Android car by revealing to me that the Kia Ceed generally has no compatibility with Android Auto Wireless. As far as I know, for Android Auto Wireless WLAN is necessary, which the Ceed generally does not support. Is that really true? My car (Ceed SW, gasoline, automatic) is currently in production, therefore the latest version of everything. Was the firm conviction that would go. I have seen the s there is for about 70€ unofficial USB adapter, but that doesn’t have to be. Can the statement of the seller be confirmed by you? Thank you and nice holidays.

Since my current car is slowly but surely giving up my mind, I have been dealing with the new purchase for a long time. At some point I got stuck with the Proceed GT. The test drive convinced me (except for the “high” consumption). Nevertheless, the topic becomes more and more concrete and I am diligently searching through the used car exchanges. I then also became aware of new cars as EU import. That’s when the MJ2020 costs as much as a n annual car with 20,000km. I have already had an offer from “HVT Automobile”, which seems to be very good. Where is the catch? Did you buy EU car? If so, what are your experiences? Which dealer can you recommend etc?

I would like to change the illuminant of the license plate lighting at the XCeed, but not the entire housing. Do you also have to unscrew the whole housing or how do you get to the bulb? [Transferred from engine talk from the topic ‘How to change the bulb of the license plate lighting at the XCeed?’]

Hello together, we are today a ProCeed GT tested. What we didn’t like at all was the engine sound when the car is moving in normal mode. It then sounds very mofa-like. This rather surr noise is also present in sport mode, but is overcome by the Klappennauspuff. My question is how the two systems (sound generator and Klappennauspuff) work. Is in normal mode only the sound generator active and in sport mode both? I mean to have read that the Klappennauspuf f only opens at higher speeds. Can you disable the sound generator? Thanks for your info, Thilo