Category: Mazda Forum

Hi guys, yesterday I took my Miata (Bj 89) out of the workshop with a new cover. After almost 20 years the old one was slightly torn and the plastic disc yellowed – there was nothing at all to help. After several calls the most favorable offer was 700 € fixed price including disc and installation at DTS car service in Koblenz. They are a former MAZDA branch and know with them quite well. The cover is exactly the same as for the MX-5 NB, they are even Connections for the disc heating on it – I can retrofit this once at viiieeel boredom, but drive anyway only in summer! I also can not notice a qualitative difference – two colleagues drive an NB, which I looked at once closer. Oh yes, with a plastic disc the whole fun would have cost only 550 €, but I was really tired in the dark and in rain “according to hearing” to park out – style back and style, the glass pane makes real sense! At first I was a little skeptical, since zw a saddler wanted to have over 1300 € without a glass pane, but look at the pictures! I can really only recommend the workshop, installation took only a day and for the 600 € I saved I can renew my leather seats next year – 20 years you can still remember at some point…

Good evening to everyone, I have to buy a MX-5 in the foreseeable future. The criteria for this are actually quite simple The mileage must not be too high, the best 5-digit and the car should not be built before 1996 so that it is not too rusty. The problem is that I have very little idea about the MX-5, am only 18 years old and therefore my budget is relatively limited. That’s why I planned to buy the car in the winter, because I think it then b As you can see, all is pure speculation Now I wanted to ask if one of you can confirm that Cabrios are cheaper in the winter and could also tell me immediately what I have to pay attention to when buying an MX-5. The reason why I am questioning this is that soon my civil service and my second job will start and then I will have very little time to do it. It would also be very helpful if you could call me a vague price window, which I probably have to reckon with in a car that is built after 1996, has less than 125,000 on the clock and is “well received”. Don’t talk too much rust and an intact roof. with kind regards and thanks in advance mehmi

Hello, last week I bought a mazda 626 GD (he is a BJ 3/90 and has bought the chassis number JMZGD 1262) and have the following problems: the mazda should drive in the jänner on his own axis to nouanchott/mauretania. there are also a few shelves on which ground clearance would be great. currently the box is quite deep and he should come a little higher… I have the 1998ccm 45 KW diesel machine inside. now ask the following questions: there are other, stronger springs for the chassis (e.g. of another, heavier motor) that could fit? what rims/tire combination could I use to get it higher? is there a factory underrun protection for coolers, oil tubs and tank? does anyone else have tips for the vehicle? I’m also looking for roof carriers – which fit? Greetings martina

Hy, I want to get an RX8 in the next 2 months now I have a few questions about the car. since it should be a used one what is there rust? which engine is better the 192 or the with 231 ps? the engine consumes a lot of oil? are there problems with the electronics? how is the suspension tuned? how much is used a rx8?

Hi. My girlfriend has a Mazda 121 DB. In the stand he runs quite normal and the engine can be turned up so normally. However, if you try to drive with it, you always have to push the accelerator minimally. If you give more gas he starts to jerk very strongly ( you happen to be in a lowrider car ). We already have the spark plugs, the ignition distributor, the ignition cables, the petrol pump, the petrol filter and the petrol line checks everything. il comes petrol (but probably not enough). We already had the car at a specialist workshop on the test device but they found nothing. At their request we changed the air volume meter, which did not change anything. Now I wonder what else can be done. Does anyone have any advice for me? mfG Findus

Hello, I bought a Premacy as a new vehicle last year. Now I had to cut the radio short from the net for an installation of an antenna softener. After connecting to the on-board network the radio demanded a code to my amazement. Since I had never entered a code, I took over the specification ‘—–‘. The radio acknowledged this with the message ERR. Lt. Statement of my dealer the radio must be sent in and the whole action costs then around 90 €. On my W ider statement, that I would never have entered a code and therefore no blame would be on me I got the lapidary answer, that a computer would crash and that could be the case with the radio. I would have had bad luck now. My question now, there is really no other way to put the radio back into operation. Greetings

hallihallo 🙂 I have a question…what about these Xenon Kit’s which are based on the Plug’n’Play principle ..so for H4 or H1 etc. are wired … e.g. at ebay etc. I know that these are forbidden in road traffic… My question, however, is the temperature development in a headlamp designed for halogen lamps, which is fed with such a Xenon burner… Can anyone tell me if Xenon burners become hotter in operation than normal H4, H1 or comparable Halogenla mpen ??? Wouldn’t it be irresponsible to offer these xenonkits if you used it to fry the reflector or ?? Thank you in advance for your answers !

Hello dear forum community, I have been in possession of an MX-5 NB (built in 2000) for a year now. I already saw a small rust spot at the two side skirts, which I wanted to take care of now. Now I found that the rust has already spread seriously and I can find a small hole at one point. After some internet research I saw that this is probably a typical problem of the MX-5, which on clogged drainholes of the Sch However: The state of things is that my side sleepers rust and I want to get the problem as soon as possible before even more of the “plage” is infested. My plan is now to sand off the rust of the sleepers or, where necessary, to weld a new sheet and attach new, already painted, over the processed standard sleepers, which cover the welding / grinding positions. is quite in the lower range and (yet) not up to the edge of the door could this be possible? At a well-known online auction house from the USA I found suitable side skirts in car paint (see picture in the appendix), which are fixed with glue and screws. The price for this is – painted – at 200$ incl. shipping. What do you think? Do I make a mistake of thinking or is my procedure wrong? Is it possible to remove the rust in such a cheap way? Is there alternatively Or is it cheaper to have the spot partly painted after welding (I don’t really trust it myself, I want to see something in the same way). I look forward to your advice!

hall oils, who knows a tuner for the mazda mx-5 nc? would like to know what is technically feasible with the 160ps engine, for the old 1.9 with 146ps there are already affordable turbokits around the 3000 euro. a mazda nc with 240ps approx. would be something fine. to the mazda mx-5 nb there is a lot in the net, even videos of the pimped 1.9er and 200ps… hard to believe that the nc weighs again more than the nb

Hello, since October 2009 I own a MX-5 NC-FL 1.8 centerline. The car is simply great. Handy, sporty, lively, stable in the driving characteristics, accelerates relatively well (for the “only” 126 hp) due to the weight of only 1080 kg, well protected against storm and wind during open driving even at low temperatures (also thanks to good heating). The driving characteristics remind me of the Porsche 911 (997), which I had already rented. Of course only when driving normally, not at the Accelerate, of course, there are over 300 hp from a 6-cylinder boxer a different world. But the rest reminds me, the precise steering, the unity between driver and vehicle, the sporty appearance, the cornering, the suspension tuning. Who wants, may laugh. ciao olderich