Category: MINI Forum

In the hope that this thread will not be filled with children’s diseases, it will help future buyers buy used cars. In autumn the current series will be 1 year old. Who has already had to visit the workshop unplanned or is not satisfied with the materials after X-Km? PS. In order not to burst the topic, please don’t post any: “Everything is OK with me” posts.

Hello, my Mazda 323F BJ (built in 1998) 1.5 L 16 V has been running badly for a few months. It started with the fact that the increasingly bad gas assumed during acceleration and sometimes even started to jerk. Performance has also had less than usual. On the highway was partly only about 80-100 kmh possible. After testing the ignition, spark plugs etc. I got a tip to look for the air mass meter. On the Internet I bought a new (from UK) but no original part. The performance of the car was suddenly normal again and drove perfectly. Unfortunately, this made a new mistake. When I was standing at the apmel, the car started to spin (permanent up and down), so that the engine even strangled itself from time to time. However, everything was fine when driving. As a result, I got another air mass meter. Original part, but needed. Since then, the engine did not spin anymore in idle, but the car felt a little less again (very much like This means that if I am standing at the traffic light and want to start driving, the coupling can only come after 2-3 seconds, because the speed often drops for 1-2 seconds when giving gas. With an auto mechanic friend I then stuck off the labda probe during the further troubleshooting and see there, the car suddenly ran perfectly again without jerking and also took on decent gas. o… logically bought a new Lambda probe and installed with much anticipation. The error has remained however. I slowly get the creep!! I would type now on ECU because the error is different with all 3 air mass meters and also because of the behavior with on- or off-set Lambda probe. I previously searched in vain in the engine compartment and behind the glove compartment for it. (will certainly be under the steering column, will look again) Can I have a used steering wheel just buy and exchange in this way? Do I have to pay attention to the exact name? Does anyone have a different idea? Maybe some temperature sensor ? (the errors occur more often when the engine is really warm) Thank you in advance jabopeti (Peter)

Hello together, my Mazda 3 (E-SkyactiveX, 186hp, 2021) I have now been working for about a month. At first I had always activated the distance tempomate (CruiseControl) and used it often. I was a bit disappointed by the consumption, because it should be a rather economical engine. For a few days now I drive without distance radar and consume significantly less. Actually in the area I had imagined. I can’t explain what this is about. A lot of electricity, or it’s because of the control of the speed. I’m not really excited about the control by the way. It often slows down unnecessarily, or accelerates very late. Of course, the different consumption can also be a coincidence, or I just drive more economical without a cruise control. Maybe someone else has already noticed that, or am I an individual case 😉 The consumption has dropped by about 1L/100km from 6.5 to 5.5. That’s what I find extreme.

Hello dear Mazda 3 forum! I am currently playing intensely with the idea of replacing our small Corsa with a slightly larger and more comfortable compact car. I like the Mazda 3 very well, I already had a test drive with the Skyactiv-X 2.0 M hybrid (i.e. still the variant with 180 hp), engine would be sufficiently strong so far, transmission also liked me and there are most equipment snaps that I like. Important were because again like with me in the previous vehicle for example HUD, matrix light, distance tempomat, 360° camera – only the seat ventilation would I miss a bit, but now well. For that finally NO touch operation again, I would look forward to that again. Now I have a few questions, of which I will certainly ask the Mazda dealer directly, but some would also interest me from your vehicle owner glasses. First: It would be a new car, then correspondingly to the e-Skyactiv X 2.0 M hybrid with automatic. Apologies for the long novel – vllt. you have experiences for this or more generally still, or tips on what to pay attention to when ordering or later in operation. I am looking forward to every answer! Greetings, a nice holiday still and a hopefully long weekend farQ

Hello, I love the time with the above car, the exact dates are: EZ 02/2008, 91.000 km, 77 kW/105 hp, manual gearbox, petrol, 2 previous owners The car dealer wants to have 5900 euros, well, that’s also a negotiation matter… I wanted to ask if this vehicle has familiar flaws/weaknesses/problems, what I should pay special attention to during the visit and test drive, and if there are any things that I should ask the dealer specifically during the visit. I am not exorbitant, or what do you think? What actual consumption do I have to reckon with (is of course heavily dependent on my driving mode, but I usually glide with the traffic)? For your answers thank you in advance

Hello, the tyres on my VA are unfortunately both on the outside relatively strong. Probably due to too little tire pressure in the last season and generally rather a sporty way of driving. I measured almost 0.8-1 mm (has now been already a few months, could also have been 1.2mm) on the outer profile, the tread still has 4mm. The rear tires are perfectly off the tread and have still 5mm on the tread. They became dangers summer tires about 35,000 km. It h Is it about Michelin / Pilot Sport 3. Now the question: would it make sense/possible to put the wheels of the VA on the HA for the coming summer season, since the outside area seems not to be so heavily stressed there? (What is also logical somewhere) I am aware that the fall of the VA may have to be stopped, since the wear and tear can also come from this, but due to short-time work the expenses should remain as low as possible at the moment… – unless safety is at risk Thank you in advance for your answers!

Good evening, I bought myself a Mazda 3, BJ 2012 with 150ps and petrol, Sportsline a few months ago. On the 100km/h I come in about 9 -10sec which is acceptable to me and also enough for me. Anyway to my question/problem, from about 110km/h a acceleration happens relatively little and very slowly and needs about 20-25 sec to come from 110km/h to 150km/h. Do you have similar experience or tips?

Hello, I’m interested in how your experiences with the Mazda3 are or whether you have similar experiences like me. I took over a Mazda 3 Skyaktiv-D 1.8 Selection ACT-P in mid-March. After less than 3 weeks, the center console (piano varnish) already has considerable scratches, although neither a key nor a mobile phone was deposited there. The scratches were created only by contact with the fingers. Even worse, the dashboard is. Only you I’ve cleaned the edge of the disc with a soft damp cloth, and there are already considerable scratches. I clean the vehicle like all the others before and there were never any problems. Has the quality of the material decreased so? Is this an individual case? I have already filed a complaint with Mazda. My dealer took photos and sent them to Mazda. The rejection came promptly, with the reason that it was caused by Fre The fact that it is perhaps inferior material or a material error is not considered at all. I found nothing in the instructions for use to care for the materials. Therefore, my question, someone has had similar experiences and how reacted Mazda. Actually a pity, because I am otherwise satisfied with the car. But this will probably be my last Mazda.

Hallöle, I bought a used Mazda 3 from 2017, ran 30,000 km, from a Mazda dealer. All-weather tires on it, but I switch to summer after this winter and then it is matured 8 times. At speeds from 110 to 120 kmh I feel vibrwtions every now and then. The steering wheel remains calm, it does not flutter, but it vibrates the car, at least I suspect it. Not permanently, only sometimes. Can this be an imbalance of the rifts and should I vll it again or can’t it actually be? Or is the suspension harder than I thought and that’s just the various floor waves etc on the highway?

Good afternoon, I drive a Mazda 323 BG with 1.6 8V (B6-E). Unfortunately I have since bought the car strong vibrations in the interior, as soon as the vehicle is at operating temperature / idle speed (approx.800U/min). It has been so extreme that I have temporarily increased the idling speed a bit, because if you give some gas to approx. 1000-1100 RPM the vibrations are actually completely gone or not to feel any more. Due to many forum reports and the fact that my 323 also at I now had all four engine/gear bearing replaced. Especially the bumping felt as if the engine was tilting back and forth. It was a good decision, because the rear bearing was definitely defective and the others also didn’t look very nice anymore. This tilting now seems to have disappeared, but unfortunately not the real problem, which bothers me much more – n The vibrations. These have remained almost unchanged.. Now my question would be, what else could this be? The engine runs absolutely round for my feeling, turns up nice and does not cause any problems. Every now and then I mean to see that the speed is going up and down a bit (only minimal), but that may be because I have adjusted the idling a bit (could of course be undone at any time, but the vibrations would be I have now read that the ignition setting or time of ignition could also be considered for such a thing. But can this cause so strong vibrations without having strong rotational fluctuations or false ignitions? Especially since the current AU test is absolutely inconspicuous. Only with the “actual value” of the ignition time nothing is entered, only the “toll value” of 7 +/-1 degrees v.OT. With the rest there is everywhere. Otherwise there would be possibly still wrong air, whereby I auc h here would rather introduce strong speed fluctuations as a companion. I unfortunately don’t know any more, but I absolutely have to get that away, because it is so simply not fun to drive the Mazda. MfG