Category: Mazda 3 & Mazda 323 Forum

Good evening, I bought myself a Mazda 3, BJ 2012 with 150ps and petrol, Sportsline a few months ago. On the 100km/h I come in about 9 -10sec which is acceptable to me and also enough for me. Anyway to my question/problem, from about 110km/h a acceleration happens relatively little and very slowly and needs about 20-25 sec to come from 110km/h to 150km/h. Do you have similar experience or tips?

Hello, I’m interested in how your experiences with the Mazda3 are or whether you have similar experiences like me. I took over a Mazda 3 Skyaktiv-D 1.8 Selection ACT-P in mid-March. After less than 3 weeks, the center console (piano varnish) already has considerable scratches, although neither a key nor a mobile phone was deposited there. The scratches were created only by contact with the fingers. Even worse, the dashboard is. Only you I’ve cleaned the edge of the disc with a soft damp cloth, and there are already considerable scratches. I clean the vehicle like all the others before and there were never any problems. Has the quality of the material decreased so? Is this an individual case? I have already filed a complaint with Mazda. My dealer took photos and sent them to Mazda. The rejection came promptly, with the reason that it was caused by Fre The fact that it is perhaps inferior material or a material error is not considered at all. I found nothing in the instructions for use to care for the materials. Therefore, my question, someone has had similar experiences and how reacted Mazda. Actually a pity, because I am otherwise satisfied with the car. But this will probably be my last Mazda.

Hallöle, I bought a used Mazda 3 from 2017, ran 30,000 km, from a Mazda dealer. All-weather tires on it, but I switch to summer after this winter and then it is matured 8 times. At speeds from 110 to 120 kmh I feel vibrwtions every now and then. The steering wheel remains calm, it does not flutter, but it vibrates the car, at least I suspect it. Not permanently, only sometimes. Can this be an imbalance of the rifts and should I vll it again or can’t it actually be? Or is the suspension harder than I thought and that’s just the various floor waves etc on the highway?

Good afternoon, I drive a Mazda 323 BG with 1.6 8V (B6-E). Unfortunately I have since bought the car strong vibrations in the interior, as soon as the vehicle is at operating temperature / idle speed (approx.800U/min). It has been so extreme that I have temporarily increased the idling speed a bit, because if you give some gas to approx. 1000-1100 RPM the vibrations are actually completely gone or not to feel any more. Due to many forum reports and the fact that my 323 also at I now had all four engine/gear bearing replaced. Especially the bumping felt as if the engine was tilting back and forth. It was a good decision, because the rear bearing was definitely defective and the others also didn’t look very nice anymore. This tilting now seems to have disappeared, but unfortunately not the real problem, which bothers me much more – n The vibrations. These have remained almost unchanged.. Now my question would be, what else could this be? The engine runs absolutely round for my feeling, turns up nice and does not cause any problems. Every now and then I mean to see that the speed is going up and down a bit (only minimal), but that may be because I have adjusted the idling a bit (could of course be undone at any time, but the vibrations would be I have now read that the ignition setting or time of ignition could also be considered for such a thing. But can this cause so strong vibrations without having strong rotational fluctuations or false ignitions? Especially since the current AU test is absolutely inconspicuous. Only with the “actual value” of the ignition time nothing is entered, only the “toll value” of 7 +/-1 degrees v.OT. With the rest there is everywhere. Otherwise there would be possibly still wrong air, whereby I auc h here would rather introduce strong speed fluctuations as a companion. I unfortunately don’t know any more, but I absolutely have to get that away, because it is so simply not fun to drive the Mazda. MfG

Hello, I drive a Mazda 3 BN Stafenheck Sportsline, EZ 08/2017 (KM-Stand 32,000km, driving behaviour 80% city / 20% overland + highway, defensive/economic driving style). As summer tyres I still ride the first equipment (Michelin Pilot Sport 3, produced in KW51/2016). Less the time on winter tyres I have driven with these tires so far about 20,000km. With horror I found today that the tyres on the front axle unusually strong wear signs (flat porous) have – left even more massive than right and at different rotation positions of the tires. I knew this so far only from 10 years old tractor tyres:-) It shocked me particularly, because I neither massively braked nor accelerated with the vehicle; also I can exclude 99%, that I have driven by shards or the like. Can you give me an assessment, if necessary, to how far the “normal” is or what could be the cause? In my opinion, the The vehicle is only a few weeks out of the warranty – would it be worth it from your point of view to make an attempt to get in touch with the Mazda dealer and to ask for a warranty against the background of material defects? Thank you in advance & LG Stefan

Dear MotorTalk Community, I am very interested in the current Mazda 3 (4th generation). To be more precise, I am planning to finance a Mazda 3 as diesel and as automatic – built in December 2019. Now I have looked at pretty much all the reviews (both in German and English) that exist. Up to now everyone from Mazda 3. However, I have recently come up with the idea to look around for problems with the car (on YouTube). Customers from the USA seem to have an incredible amount of problems. It starts with problems with vibrations and clapping in the doors and stops with non-functioning assistance systems, which threaten to fail even in light snowfall. Since there are only a few videos and I am aware that it is of probably 10,000 customers only 10 who have problems, I thought it was half as wild. However, in the comments there were all the more customers who shared the frustration and allegedly the gleic Among the comments, there were customers from the UK who had no such problems. Are the Mazda 3 built elsewhere for the North American market? And if so, why do these customers have so many problems? I now appeal to all the members who drive a Mazda 3 of the 4th generation here in Germany. Do you also have such problems? Should the Mazda 3 be avoided better? Is the car reliable, or is it only a permanent vehicle? uftrag for the workshop? Would you buy the car again, or should I leave my fingers off it? I am really insecure and need your advice urgently. Thank you very much.

Hello first of all, I am actually more the Opel driver, but now I have a Mazda 3 1.6 liter year 2005 in my hands. It is really nice, but has the problem that the airbag light is on. Read out: belt strapper driver seat resistance too large. Now I would like to expand the seat to be able to look at the cables and plugs. I realize that only the battery has to be disconnected and waited a few minutes before I have to hit any cables or plugs. mmel. But it would be important to me to know how to remove the seat, so whether and how I have to remove which covers or screws. I don’t have a workshop book. Then I can see if there are obvious damage to the cables or plugs and clean all the contacts to see if this will help. Would be nice if you could give me a guide or even pictures. I found nothing right in the search. Thanks Andi

Hello have 1 Mazda CX-30 Year of manufacture 2019 where the 1 handheld transmitter no longer works or just hold the buttons on the side and to start directly to the start button otherwise he will no longer recognize the key. The other key works perfectly. What’s wrong with the key is this broken e.g. from falling off or has he forgotten his learning function for Keyless ? Thanks for your support

Hello together, that will hopefully be the last thread of me for a long time now. Here’s what I was doing today. I was in the workshop today and my brakes in the back were renewed and the brake cheeks in the front left had to be cleared. Is ordered on Monday. Since releasing the brake whistles like a train. Is that normal? And the 2nd tires in the front were renewed exactly a year ago. My mechanic said that they would be rough and he would make them completely new. But why are the front ones like this after a year? I attached pictures. These are Nexen all-weather tires. I had a plate at the back, so I like to make them new. But I drive normally, so I don’t get it so completely. Greetings

First good evening, I have a Mazda 323 from the year 1988, this one has a 1.6l engine and 63kW respectively 85hp. One day he decided not anymore, although he was still running the previous day. Meanwhile the ignition cables, the ignition coil and the ignition distributor cap are new and even after that there were no sparks, then I checked if voltage at the ignition coil arrives and there were 12V on the line, only nothing comes out of the coil. Meanwhile I am totally desperate, because I don’t know what could be wrong with the car, just as little as my landlord and neighbor who helped me in the meantime. Funny is life when I get an old car to not have to hit me with electrics and then something like that happens… I look forward to your help and tips!