Category: Mazda 3 & Mazda 323 Forum

Good afternoon, I bought a Mazda 3BL and the switch knob is very sweaty. Can I just pull off the old knob or I have to pay attention to something. Don’t want to break anything. And you find operating instructions on the Internet. There was no one in the car and want to see how everything works. And does this old Navi in BL do something? Best regards

Hi guys, I picked up my new Mazda 3 BP a few days ago and I already have a few kilometers down. So far I am absolutely satisfied with the car there would not be two small points where I would like to ask if this should be like this: 1) is it normal that the steering wheel heater really heats very briefly? If I get into the car, start the engine and activate the steering wheel heater it will quickly get warm, but it also seems super fast to shut down again I have read that the steering wheel heating is deactivated after 15 minutes (or 30?) but I don’t have much left after a handful of minutes. I have already switched on or off the automatic mode of the air conditioning system to see if this will change something but unfortunately no. 2) it is normal that I take the steering wheel in CTS mode (i.e. when I press the middle of the lower row of buttons on the right side of the steering wheel) almost completely. I usually drive in the normal quarter-before-three position, so both hands have normal on the steering wheel and yet the above message comes very often, except I really push hard. If you have to hold the steering wheel with both hands, you have to hold the steering wheel with your hands.

Hello guys! I’m actually from the Mercedes forum, but 2 years ago I actually bought a 323er as a winter car. Since he liked me so much, I had him set up and she drives him now. Now he’s been ticking around for 3, 4 weeks! First I thought it was a detonator, and I changed distributor cap & fingers, ignition cables & candles, unfortunately without success It’s now even so annoying as if you were riding a wild bull! So now I know myself at the starship, but have little idea of Mazda. I have of course read through the forum and have come across some threads that describe this problem quite well. I’ve read that it’s either the dealer for the water temp., the ignition coil or ignition distributor can be. Is it true that? Where can I find the water temperature sensor & how do I check it? What do you think it might be? Now she wanted to drive the long weekend to Croatia! What do you think / can stay with the car so far?

Hi, my first car just won’t let me go in my thoughts anymore … ! So I just wanted to ask what you think a 323 BG Schrägheck with 88hp, under 150,000km, in a good general condition, can’t cost with as little or as little rust as possible? How much do I have to plan in order to get a good car, which doesn’t have to be done too much anymore? Thanks for your help!

Moin, I’ve been looking for a car (diesel, automatic) for some time now. Now I’ve come across this Mazda: https://suchen.mobile.de/…/search.html?… Mazda has converter gears, right? Since the prices for cars have gone up, I always compare and this is the only Mazda in Germany with diesel / automatic and a few kilometers. Are there any weaknesses of which I should know about the car? Thank you for your help. LG

Hello I was looking for something but found nothing right. And I want to have my Mazda 3BM Sportsline upgrade the rear camera the yes front and rear sensors has. Now I would like to know, however, if during the return drive the small car is displayed where you see exactly where the sensors hit ! Whether it is optically displayed whether front or rear what is. . Because on some pictures you can only see the image of the rear camera . I hope I have the nic Heh too complicated explains what I mean. Greetings Torsten

Hello dear forum, I’ve been driving around here for a few days and trying to get an answer to some questions, unfortunately was not THE right answer ready so I hoped to satisfy my curiosity with my own topic. First of all briefly to me and my car experiences/style/feelings. I have been driving a Peugeot 208 for almost 2 years, working a lot of kilometers with a Seat Leon (Diesel Business) behind me and the Outlander from my dad a few times under me bt. I myself drive very well sprite-saving/cautious. It is not important to me to drive around with 200, 130-150 is enough for me completely, conditionally for overtaking it may also attract. Comfortable is more important to me than sporty (except for the overtaking acceleration ) and it should be sprite-saving. Driving technically I return at the moment 20km daily drive (all max 50kmh area) I rarely have highways and also rarely ever motorway (holidays ect.) In a few years I will be but my work path is up to 80km a day. Nja and what should I say… the new three-piece Mazda has done me xD Externally my favorite car, inside I like it very much and I consider a lot to laugh at me. Also the bulging technical gimmicks meet me in the heart and nevertheless it seems classic noble and not like a UFO exactly my world. My favored config. would be steepback – petroler – matrix grey – design package incl. 18 grey rims and the iActivsense – to r I’m talking about my questions: 1. G122 or rather the X180… I hate it, I feel like I need eig. Net as much power but is he now more fuel-saving than his smaller brother or does he completely – how do you see it? 2. Short to the leather seats – I prefer seat-technical fabric, do not need profile storage also the elect. Seat adjustment is of no concern to me – would there still be arguments that would speak for leather (except cleaning – with me dominantly. t Sterility in the car!) 3. Bose sound system… so I like to listen to music/radio/audiobooks during the ride, but I’m not “audiophil” – (except it’s about home cinema etc.) – but of course it’s important to me that the sound is not a grütze, Rock/Metal/Jazz/Orcestre and Spoken are so my fav. 4. I want to get the car as an automatic. Here you can fundamentally recommend the automatic from Mazda or. General. The longevity of the drive/technology ect. 5. Is it possible the aut o (whether num G122 or X180) to trade down despite the model freshness? Are 20% or even more (as cash payer!) possible here in DE, I have unfortunately nothing to give away. Also day registration or demonstration weighers am I net averse if price-wise in my favor – or would it be worth waiting here for the first time? 6. I would possibly have to transport 1 (possibly 2) wheels, can one install a roof construction afterwards or trailer coupling or must this be ordered in advance? (I) but more a minor question) 7. The additional guarantee – I consider the guarantee to be additional. 5 years to extend but read with many ads only what of the 2 or 3 year warranty exactly how does this guarantee thing work out? Can it be booked at some point in the mood?! Hope my post does not repeat any existing ones and you have to answer the same questions for the Xmal – I hope nevertheless on helpful posts. Thanks

Hello together, I’m new here in the forum. Ride a German premium car so far and just ordered me the new Mazda 3! Never seen in real, never sat in, read everything for it, enthusiastic and made all crosses… Is there any more crazy like me here? Greetings Zed

Hello dear community, I need a new car and it should become a Mazda 3. I think of the model from 2014. I want a very young used, annual car or similar and can not decide between the different offers. Maybe you can give with tips. It is to become the 120 HP petrol variant. To the selection stand: Mazda 3 Sports as annual car with approx. 20 000km for approx. 17 500€ Mazda 3 Signature as daily registration for almost 18 000€ Mazda 3 Sports L 19 000€ I’ve already Googled a lot and don’t come up with any solution. What would you do? On the one hand, the annual car is a bit cheaper, on the other hand, also a yearly car. But is that absolutely something bad? Are there perhaps even advantages of annual car? Should I possibly grab the signature? Quite a significant difference is the Bose sound system right? Is the sport worth the 1000€ more than TZ? Or for even a little less G eld the sport with the system and for it 20 000km? As you can see, I don’t know any more. Maybe you can help me with your opinions. Thank you.

Estimated community The winter range of my current Stromer has let me get into a mess with the cart. I am now thinking about kicking off the current and running the next roughly 2-3 years with a burner, until attractive and affordable electricians have entered the market. Maxime is cheap, robust and the targeted duration survives. I know that bumps, scratches, disconnected controls etc. are to be expected. My driving prof il: pendle daily, per way 50km, 49km of which Swiss highway with 80kmh to 120kmh, while rush times however rather 30-60kmh. In the selection is currently ( next to 100+ others on the watch list ) an advertisement: Sure, I ask here for the reading in the glass ball, but so purely tended: Thank you very much!