Category: Mazda 6 & Mazda 626 Forum

Hello to all, although I have read a lot here I could not find an answer to my question. Therefore here my drawn questions with the request for your participation. After guidance (on the diagnostic box GND & TBS bridged) I determined the code 14 (ABS sensor hi/li). ABS sensor hi/li replaced. After an instruction (10x brake pedal operated) and deleted the error from the error memory. Sporadic error still present. All four sensors cleaned and resistance measured a Inconspicuous. Battery disconnected and all plugs incl. the v. control unit sprayed with contact spray. Sporadic error still exists. AC voltage of the ABS sensors rear wheels measured and determined that when the wheels rotate about the same, the AC voltage on the right is only half as large as on the left. However, code 14 (ABS sensor hi/li) was shown.Now my question: Is it o.K. that one sensor brings less AC voltage than the other sensor? /re with less AC voltage is defective even though code 14 ABS sensor hi/li is output?

ABS control unit Mazda 626 Hello, today I had the error memory of my Mazda 626 Kombi Bj.98 read out after the ABS/TCS people are always on.The error codes 53 and 54 were displayed.According to Mazda the control unit (467€) or the hydaulic part (1455€) must be renewed.Can someone tell me if that is true.

My Mazda has been consuming a lot of oil since recently. Everything is dry in the engine room. Before 10,000 km 5w-30 (although I had ordered online 10w-40!) was tipped in by a workshop and is now loud measuring rod empty.. Even before 10w-40 the oil consumption was so high. My question now, can I just tip 10w-40 on top of it? It should be very little 5w-30 still in there, hope that that doesn’t matter. And for increased consumption the spark plugs came into my mind. if. Unfortunately, I can’t find one on the Internet that fits my engine! Most of them are suitable for the year 2000 or from Bosch. My 98 year of construction can help me? Should NGKs or Denso be.

Hello Mazda driver! My father-in-law drives a Mazda 6 1.8 petrol year 2006! He now has problems with the oil consumption! Since April 2012 he has now had to fill at just under 1000 km holds 2 liters after! The free workshop has filled him with engine oil with SAE 5W40 at the last change in September 2011! This oil is not in the recommendation in the manual! There I find 5W30 or 10W40! Since the next change is due, I would like to have your opinion and recommendation about the engine oil! Thank you!

Hi, I’m looking for a cheap mid-range car and the 6 GJ has come into my short selection. I found it close to me and will do the test ride for days. How do you find the general one?https://suche.mobile.de/…/details.html?…

Hello forum, I have a very funny problem with my Mazda 626 GF/GW Kombi 2,0 petrol. After I started the engine and started the first time, a funny hissing noise comes from the front left of the engine compartment. After that when driving and even after stopping at a traffic light or so nothing unusual is anymore. Now I tried to let the MAzda roll on with the ignition on. See also without the engine started this noise comes in. In the attachment a film with anrol Len. The cracking at the end is the handbrake, so has nothing to do with the noise. Does anyone have an idea what that can be? I’ve been doing this for quite a while and I mean it’s getting louder.

good day, I ask about one known and have two questions. please not something like totally negligent and this and that it are only questions. the following: colleague has bought for the transition a mazda 626 build year 2000 2 liter. he wants to drive the only maximum to Januar/februar because he then has his actual car ready for tv he needs until then only one transition car. now it is that somehow there is something leaking there at the tank, I guess the isz of the hose. if the car is fully fuelled is, then 2-3 liters run down again and then is ok otherwise is nothing at the run-out only that the car on the side smells of sprite due to the leakiness. the question is, can it be that there is something leaking or loose on the tank hose? the car was previously driven by an older man who is now also slightly demented and can no longer drive a car, so it may be that there was pulled out of the tap when refueling like a truck someone knows this problem? of the further i yesterday at the winter tire change that a wheel bolt is broken off, which was so firm that must have already suffered something before and then it was off. at the moment he has thus only 4 wheel bolts. to what extent is this rideable? IS NATURLY NO big thing and one could fix it would have to look. just as said since the car should be used anyway only a few weeks or a month scarcely, is of course then logical conclusion that one does not want to put too much more in denwagen an money, that pays d I’m sure he will get rid of the dare anyway and then most of them want to nimble. especially since he has rusty on the bike runs, although only there and otherwise only 140 thousand has run but japaner never wants to pay anyone and if not much therefore it is clear that you don’t want to invest too much anymore. now your opinions are asked but objectively please.

Hello dear GJ driver, I bought a GJ 10/2016 in the summer. Great car and so far I am very satisfied. The car has been around since 2012. I would be interested to know if there are users who have rust problems with their GJs here? It is my first Mazda, and with the previous series there should have been more or less strong rust problems. Is this still with the current model? After almost 6 years on the market one or other Mazda Schw I’m thinking about whether I’m giving Mazda a cure with MS or Fluid Film. Greeting, the_Nordmann

Hello dear community, I’ve come across a Mazda who I like very much, except for the cockpit with the thousand buttons that is a bit in need of getting used to, but at the price I could arrange with it if your judgment is good. That’s what we’re talking about. Please judge what the stuff holds. Good or not good? Why? Why? Why? Have read something about the control chain. Is that true or has the timing belt? If the control chain I don’t need a G Is this a direct injection??? I’ve been looking for it again for an hour and have clicked through several pages with technical data. There is everything, but never something for an injection. grrr I’m curious about your judgment and am grateful for every answer. Why is this so cheap or is this a normal price? As an autolaie without car connoisseurs in the environment, you are here TOP! I don’t know where else I’m going to go. This is the way and there is (hopefully) a good piece: Greeting Maik – MrAutolaie EDIT: Quote: Private sale subject to reservation What does that mean? Subject to this, it actually means that changes or redemptions can occur under certain circumstances. However, the meaning in this context is not quite clear to me, as there is a dealer above as a seller, so not private. I Somehow that sounds like “if I (dealer) want to get the cart back”, but that can’t be.

Hey guys, my Bose amplifier is probably over for 4 days. The last 1.5 years he went out again and again with and without cracks, but after a few minutes to hours, max. 2 days again. Factory radio without Navi and with Bluetooth is installed. Since we have a family trip on Thursday with about 800 km before us I wanted to ask if there is a short-term solution for my problem. I had to “somehow bridge to get at least a bit of sound” or a He On eBay there is nothing around the model number GS1D66920A and I don’t think that the 190 Euro repair service can send me back my original until then. (especially since the part is just here on the table. I am practically inexperienced with audio technology except for some radio installations and have no desire to solder around. An adapter for a cheap alternative solution, which I can order or get locally would be optimal. I say until so 300 Euro would be the fun straight e worth. Sorry for all the parameters, maybe someone still wants to give me a tip. Greetings Max