Category: Mazda 6 & Mazda 626 Forum

Hi I’m not usually here in this forum but a well-known wants to buy maybe a used Mazda 6. Is that true the engines come from Ford? If so, comes even more from Ford? Are they just as good as the Mazda engines? Had even used a BJ91 626 and he never had a defect except for the wearers. Sold at 125000Km. Think that with Ford technology such times are over. Greeting Souler22

Hello,I’ve been looking for a guide on how to remove and/or delete the error memory on the 626. I drive a Mazda 626 GF/GW year 2000 2.0 liter 115PS Hatchback.Can someone tell me or give me a link where to find a guide on how to skip and delete the error memory on the genant model and what you need???Have not found anything and it was no problem to read out and delete my previous car.

Hello to the round, looking for a suitable station wagon we came across this offer:https://suchen.mobile.de/…/details.html?… I have read here in the forum that the 165ps petrol engine is almost unproblematic. Are there things I have to pay particular attention to during a possible test drive? Is the price correct? What can you possibly get out of it without being rude? Would I be more than happy about some tips and ideas from you. LG

Hello together, so as the title already says, my 626 first cream runs (Bj 2000, now almost 171 000km). With each kilometer more, it runs better. The engine purrs like a kitten, if it has to be, sometimes even until Tacho 210. And even the Tüv man said at the end of February, this dry engine without any oil loss will give me many more years fun …….One bit of oil it burns and rust can be found at every corner (special tailgate, both wheel runs and all door phalts), but The consumption of now just under 8 liters is fine, would say ic! Angie can keep her scrapping premium! How do your experiences look? Anyone over 200/250/300 000 km on the clock???? Greetings, Flo

Can someone tell me when to change the timing belt at Mazda 6 136 hp diesel year 2004?

I have Mazda6 Kombi Built in 2004. Because I didn’t do a single service, Mazda gets out of the guarantee. Can they do that? Are there precedents? My 2004 is an economic total damage. The rust holes are partly over 10 cm wide. The sleepers are completely open because completely rusted away. The wheel houses at the rear no longer exist de facto. The front could last another one or two years. The underbody is a single tragedy, cross handlebars etc. heavy An 8-year-old car has reached the end of its life cycle and the 12-year rust guarantee does not apply….

Hello, I am looking for a replacement for my Volvo, a newer but not new car, which is to some extent clear, has a large trunk, and is above all reliable. After a little search and a long look in my empty wallet, the following selection is available: If a Mazda 626 station wagon is preferred around the turn of the millennium (’98-’02), a Toyota Avensis (’01-’02) or a Nissan Primera. The latter are very cheap, but obviously suffer from the caramel plague and the Cock pit looks like a prolific stereo system of the 90s. To the Mazda I hear surprisingly little bad – a bit of talk about brakes, a bit of rust, hardly anything else. Here in the forum a quick look did not give so much, my best friend is enthusiastic about his ’01er 626 (but also a bit blinded, as far as Mazda is concerned), my uncle very satisfied with his fully equipped 6. So what should I pay attention to? Look forward to good feedback! Lieb Gruss Oli P.S.: Living in Norway Here the prices are different and the running performance is higher… Examples I’m interested in: ’00 626 with fresh TÜV, try out maybe on the Easter weekend, ’02 Avensis (hole in the exhaust, marauding rhymes, broken window lifter, sad varnish and dead hand brake – otherwise good ), ’01 Primera, try driving maybe tonight.

Good evening for the first time… I drive a Mazda 626 GW built in 1998 and have been having a problem blocking my brake at the rear left for about 2 weeks. The brake disc gets hot and it smells like it’s already slightly burned. I noticed that the problem occurs as soon as I use the hand brake. I dismantled the brake system and when the brake rope is hung, I noticed that the saddle is not completely back but is slightly tightened and can be pushed back by hand about 1 cm. When I press the handbrake as long as the car is mounted, the caliper always goes back. However, I can turn the tires with a bit of hard work with the fully tightened brake. As soon as I mount the tire, drive off and then press the handbrake you will hang again. Let me leave the handbrake in peace everything is OK. The right side Since e is OK there blocks nothing and the tire I can not turn even with the greatest effort. Oh yes the caliper I had changed already 2 years ago but against used by verwerter (then the problem was that I had no handbrake effect). Unfortunately I always have the habit of pulling the handbrake when I park, so I certainly have to solve the brake three times by hand in the last 2 weeks. What do you mean what can that be? I suspect Br emssattel or brake rope. Ask for your help, thank you.

Hello dear user, I have a problem with my Mazda 626 [ V Station Wagon GW 1998-2002] And hope that you can help me further. Now to the Porblem: Wednesday morning 6.00 am I get into my car drive to my construction site everything still in order. After work 15 o’clock I get into the car the car has got up well was the whole day around the 20°c car was unfortunately in the sun..so I want to go driving make ignition on leg the 1t. Gang one clamps a little but goes…then after 10min car fah rt I have to climb a hill and at the end of the hill a traffic light as always red.. and when starting at the traffic light the 1 passage does not go in anymore …. the 2th goes hard but I go off 500m the next traffic light but mountain down again ampel red there goes the 1 passage hard in… after 500m the mountain goes up again with red traffic light again the 1 passage does not go in.. the 2th only hard… at home I park the car and test the corridors: 1 course does not go in. 2course does not go in 5gang and RWG go hard… ________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ I test it again on Friday evening 23 ot because it is only when it’s only when it is warm with the walks, I go, I go, I go, and the first gear goes, and the first gear goes in as if it is fresh and the 2nd and the other walks again… after about 45 min. d is just then I hit the steering wheel on the right and once the speed goes up and the light starts to sloppy and out of my engine comes a funny noise… sorry for the long text.. I hope, however, someone can help me.. because I have little money at the moment to bring my pkw to the workshop… P.s I was at different workshops and the saying coupling can be nothing else but I don’t think so … Thank you in advance =)

Hello, with our M6-Kombi-Facelift the following noise occurs irregularly with simultaneous (very) slight twitching in the steering wheel: After a longer slight(!) braking it cracks shortly before(!) the stop from the front left. The same noise occurs when I roll from the parking space (with a strong lateral inclination to the right) to the road with a slightly kicked foot brake in the morning and carry out a right/left steering movement. After several greases have already been exchanged. I think that a pad game in the saddle is now unlikely. Should it have had an effect on the braking process. Can someone give me a hint how to narrow down the fault? In the workshop you could not find an obvious defect; and if you were suspected of changing parts, you understandably didn’t want to. But I also don’t want to drive around until the defective part falls off on its own. n New car with 7tkm and warranty. And the whole has been annoying since 5tkm really huge!