Category: Mazda 6 & Mazda 626 Forum

Hello guys, I start from the beginning. I bought a Mazda 6, Bj 2006, 160000 km, 2.0 147hp, bad, Navi, etc. in August. Test drive went problem-free and even after the purchase everything was fine. I drove with the car often bigger distances (so. 200-300km). On my last bigger tour I suddenly heard at about 150kmh a loud cracking noise from the engine room. I went straight out and checked oil level. Result: No drop of oil. Oil display however The result was a bearing damage. To have this repaired in the workshop would have been more expensive than I paid for the car, so I decided to replace the engine. Since my grandpa has a Ford Focus 2, 2.0 145 hp, BJ. 2007 88000km with accident damage (complete rear damage, front is undamaged) and the engines are yes identical or Ford loses the engines of Mazda, I removed it and installed it on my Mazda. Before that, the engines were still lit. It was necessary to install the side wall of the Mazda engine, but everything was the same screws, so everything was exactly right. When we finally had the engine in my Mazda and everything was connected, we wanted to start it. However, we only get a “crack” from the starter, but not a turn. Thought it was on the starter, so the starter was out again and then the starter from the Ford got off. (I made a modification on the Ford engine.) But also with this starter the same problem. Only a “crack”, but no saving in the tooth wreath. I exclude battery, because the starter works and turns whom I attach to the car, only if I screw it on it does not turn any more. It seems to me that only the magnetic switch push the pin forwards, but not turn in. What can it be on now, that my starter does not sprint in? ??? As I said, it works when I connect it to the car, just don’t stop after screwing it. I checked ground connection to the engine, it’s OK. The starter is the same that was on the engine before, so that must fit. I’m in despair, have been looking for the source of the error for a week, but I don’t find anything I hope you can help me, or give me tips on what I could try everything. Greetings Tobi

Moin, this morning I had repeated problems with foggy windows in the car. It was cool, so 4° and just wet outside. The windows were still all free inside when I entered. Only when I then turned on the engine, all the windows started within seconds. It then took several minutes until the climate got away the humidity. -Pollen filter is almost new -Climate had the summer over very good cooling performance -It does not evaporate from the ventilation -Car is dry inside(carcase, trunk etc.) Do you have any idea? Car is a 2011 GH 2.0 gasoline automatic, 70tkm.

Hello, just look for a replacement for my Mondeo MK3, the Mazda 6 stands me in the eye! Have only 2 questions: -Does the Mazda 6 1st generation C vFL/nFL have a comfort opening/closing (slices up and down by remote control (not only close at the vehicle closure)????For me this is important to let out the heat jam in the car above all!!! -What exactly is different about climate automation? Would you like to install a retrofit radio e.g.: https://www.amazon.de/…/ref=sr_1_1 ?… orhttps://de.aliexpress.com/…/32789974133.html?… Unfortunately they are only for the manual climate control, for the automatic can unfortunately not be found… Hope that still clarifies about the holidays! MfG Mopedcruiser

Hello Together I wanted to ask myself if you can change the brakes at the front of the Mazda 6 GJ 2015? I once had a Benz and there the SBC brake had to be deactivated first, because otherwise there was the risk that the baits could “snatch”. The Mazda can brake itself. So I asked myself the question if something has to be deactivated here first so that you don’t lose your fingers? The reason for the exchange is that the brakes rub like stupid and Mazda of course k a guarantee for the brakes wants to take over there wear part.

Hello guys, I’m currently driving an Audi A5. But the car is too small for me by now… and I wasn’t really happy with the car either. At Audi, my experience is that only the prices are Premium Now I want something bigger! Looking for nice cars, I noticed the Mazda 6. As far as I can see, you get quite a lot of car for the money! If I decide for the Mazda 6 then it should be a gasoline engine. Since I am quite often a professional pretty nice I don’t need any more fast rides on the motorway. I make the cruise cruise at 130 and roll comfortably to the destination. Therefore, I think that the 165hp petrol with automatic is just the right engine for me. I have 10 km to work and drive from time to time to highway. A few times a year I also want to pull my boat or a trailer by car. I put a lot of value on the experiences and tips of the forum and bi How are the experiences with the engine (automatic gearbox)? Are there children’s diseases? Are certain things susceptible according to experience? I thank you in advance for your efforts! Best regards Stefan

Hello your dear and a beautiful day, you wanted to know how the matter, which has been sufficiently commented and treated here, continues. My lawyer now has the mandate. The opposing lawyer has the opportunity to comment up to 19.2.. It is the entire purchase price , accident damage compensation , as well as all the costs connected with the car , used by me back demanded train to Zus against return of the car . Furthermore a criminal investigation runs to the dealer. Hopefully he will be once and for all forbidden to trade with cars. So cordial greetings from Detlev!

Hello, I hope this is the right page for my problem. I hope you can help me After work I wanted to drive home, but my car didn’t sprang up, I thought the battery and bridged it but nothing pasted. then pushed it on and went against nothing. Last way ADAC, the good people came about after 1 std and was checked by the ADAC staff where they found that the immobilizer flashed although ignition was on, we only stayed my Mazda at The next day, the butchered message at my Mazda workshop, the engine locker is defective and the immobilizer is blocking everything. The nice Mazda masters thought it would cost about 2900 euros. But since I just don’t have the 2900 euros and the car has about 10 years and 280 000 km I didn’t think it would pay so much money to put in there. there the nice masters meant that I should pay 500 euros, because they checked it and the Ellekt ricker has a STD wage of about 98 euro. After agreement of 300 I was able to tow my car back home. Then I expanded the engine control unit and shikt to the technology center, Hello, now I have even more problems. the motor control grave I got back today from Technicker Zentrum Filderstadt. I paid almost 520 euro to the technician center, the engine control unit installed in the yard now runs my car back, NIX since still the same error, everything le uchtet and the immobilizer still flashes (then my motor control unit was not defective at all or? ) Please give me a advice where the errors lie almost 900 euro paid to Mazda and technician center and it still does not run WHERE comes the error that the immobilizer always flashes even though the key is stuck. Ps: I forgot there was still a sheet of the technology center, where they describe to me what else to do. cabularization ring antenna testing, if necessary ring antenna new ern. (what is a ring antenna) Renew pressure control valve on high pressure pump (is that the Disel pump? )

Hallihallo. I went out three times this morning on my way to work while braking and at the same time uncoupled the car. He can then start immediately again, but in the turn-off process this is not so funny, if the car suddenly can be steered so badly :/ I have to say that I have to step the accelerator pedal before starting, because it otherwise sticks. Yes, I know, I should have taken care of it (is the throttle flap, or?) but I’ve tried it myself. The car has run 190,000 km, has been running smoothly and smoothly on LPG since 8,000 km, runs about 30,000 km a year, mainly long distance and the ABS sensor at the front left is broken. But that has nothing to do with it, doesn’t it? Does anyone have an idea? VlG Miss K.

hello, we have acquired a mazda 6 mps per. from the mazda dealer with 166ps,160 000km of running power and built year 2002, petrol. and everything that belongs to this 😉 my question is now: does our model have a control chain? is there a list with the equipment features that the mazda has? what do I have to keep in mind? how are the maintenance intervals? have read anything with nem turbo?or was the construction year dependent? ne uplitation of the motors which tooth belts or control chain have? unfortunately could I’m not so busy with the car yet, since our treasure is only coming next week 🙂 we used to drive the mazda 323f ba for 6 years 🙂 was a nice car! I uploaded 2 photos of our treasure 🙂

Hello 🙂 Maybe you can help me- everyone thinks I’m stupid. My car has a problem. Or maybe I have one… Well, I imagine that between 85 and 95 km/h, the most noticeable thing is something funny in 5th gear on very smooth asphalt. It feels like the car has a brake plate at the front right. But it didn’t. The tyres at the front are new and because I’ve been so nervous several times. I can’t do that well. It feels like the one front tire is driving over the smallest floor waves, the other one doesn’t. It doesn’t clack, you don’t feel in the steering wheel. Somehow the “vibrations” are different. Under 85 km/h it’s not there, over 95 km/h either. Whether it occurs at higher speeds I don’t know, because it’s too discreet to be noticed when driving faster. It kind of roars a little. The stupid thing is that nobody believes me. n tested to independently confirm that there is nothing there. But I just notice something. Whether on the driver’s or passenger’s seat. Can this be the wheel bearing? Or does it make itself so noticeable when fall or track are set? Can it be because the brake discs are soon at the end at the front? Or because an ABS sensor may be over? (TCS and ABS lights are permanently lit). What can this be? Does anyone have an idea? I would be grateful for tips. VlG Miss K.