Category: Mazda 6 & Mazda 626 Forum

Hello, after 22 years of service car I have to take care of a private car I drive an A6 diesel four-wheeler with a little over 200 hp. I want to decide for Mazda and fluctuate between the 6 car and the CX5. Automatic. The dealers recommend me the 194PS engine instead of the 185PS engine. How are your experiences – is the difference really so great? The leasing rate is about 50 euros per month higher. I know that I will not have the performance of the A6 – but for my trips to work and holidays in France and Italy I don’t have to race. For tips I would be grateful, since I have to decide soon. Unfortunately, the trial drive with the 6 car is a real problem – no dealer has a demonstration car. At CX5 no problem… but SUV??

Mazda 6 Sports-Line with LogIn remote control Hi, don’t go further, the instructions are thin and not exactly clear … In short: How do I start the car with the spare key or generally with a key without a battery, without the alarm going off? I put my first key (with battery) far away and with the second/physical key the door opens: Alarm goes off. Operating instructions: no indication for proper operation with physical spare key. There is only how, e.g. with the burglary sensor switch off the alarm, namely with the key on the key case – if a battery is in it. Is not. Or how to turn off the alarm when it has gone off: with battery key or with motor, clear. Or “turn off the anti-theft system”, i.e. complete: press the unlock button on the FB. Clear – if a battery is in it. The two-track “theft protection system” is also described: Auto theft or the the theft of objects? Then it sounds “the sirene or the horn or what? What is the connection?

Hello together, so – my Zafira just blesses the temporal, a “new” used one has to come. Basic requirements: – Diesel and the huge dog box must fit in the trunk – in price there is not much since I got stuck in my search at the Mazda 6 (about 2004-2006), there is already under 2500, – with under 200,000 km. So from the principle I find the great, cockpit fits, in this blue metallic (?) (please don’t hit, I really didn’t hit so a lot of idea of cars and had the last years always 15-20 years old Opel) and black I find it really great. So from the outside. Test drive so far did not go because of plaster arm. Of the ads I have seen so far, I would now have the feeling that I would get the same money, which I would have to lay for a 01/02 Zafira with green badge, a more valuable car. What I also found “out” is that the Mazda 6 has probably quite a topic with rust. At the doors, below n on the sides and underbody (?). Can this be done yourself, if a used rust has points, and if so how? Spatula mass and varnish? And if so, to what degree rust? Then I have encountered relatively often advertisements with “motor damage” and “control chain torn”. Does this really happen so often or can one somehow avoid that? Is there anything to consider? So if I look at a used one, what do I have to pay attention to? What is important? Would make sense, w or what do I notice during a test drive that the control chain is already not good? And what do I notice that xyz is wrong and what would be “normal” for this car? He will certainly drive differently than a 17-year-old Opel Zafira. I would be happy if you could give me some tips. Thanks already!

Hi @, I started to look for myself, but I quickly realized that this is very tough, because I really have 0 experience with petrol and the brands mentioned in the title (had so far only VW diesel, manual gearboxes). So far I have only driven motorway so about 20-30 tkm p.a., but soon so many things change for me and I will drive much less (not every day and then rather city or sometimes travel somewhere), therefore and because of diesel scandal and possible consequences I would go to Be nziner change. I am a cozy driver, was so far with about 140 hp absolutely satisfied, but what is absolutely important to me is that the cars are robust and reliable and have high comfort. In general I also see that I do not buy models that still have childhood diseases, so if it goes at least 2 – 4 years after model introduction etc. I would buy a car Built. approx. 2014, automatic. What would you say Insignia or Mazda6 would be less susceptible to general Probl eme, rust, automatic transmission problems, childhood diseases or other problems? What about driving comfort etc? If one or the other brand, which motorization and what would be the advantages? I will probably have to make the same request in the Insignia forum.

Hello! I have a Mazda 6 Kombi Bj 2006, which unfortunately had to winter outdoors. Yesterday evening the alarm system (Hupe) went off without any outside action. The battery was quite at the end and the symbol for “open door” lit. Car could be started, and the battery seems to be OK again, but the turn signal no longer works, and all doors except the driver’s door are locked. In addition, the remote control no longer works, and the interior lighting goes n If you open the driver’s door, the other doors, including the tailgate, can’t be opened from the outside or from the inside. Does anyone have any idea where the fault might be? The car is now in the garage. Thank you in advance! Anna

Good evening. I bought a radio blind from Carav for my Mazda 6 (BJ. 2004). Today I installed the aperture and with the plugs everything was clear, except for one. I have it left because it fits only to the aperture and nowhere on the Mazda. Now the buttons of the aperture do not work and also the on-board computer does not want any more. Does any of you have experience with the aperture and can send me a manual for the plugs? With the dealer I have telephoned but d he could not help me, because he has no idea and he allegedly does not have a guide himself. Thank you for the help in advance.

We are looking for a new mobile kit and the Mazda 6 has also made it into the circle of the chosen ones. The design of the station wagon is exactly mine and then also in the red from the advertising… I find awesome. The 150 hp diesel or the 165 hp petroler would be in question. Both as automatic. Our Fahprofile looks like this: Ca 18tkm a year, under the week 70% city, at the weekend highway with 50 to 100km long stages. If you look around like this, j a almost only positive. Only with the brakes and with the particle filters there are probably problems. Can someone say more about the 2 topics? I would also like to know which of the two aggregates fits better with the automatic. Is the automatic at all recommended? The Mazda salesman said that the transmission would be the fleshy dream of every automatic fetishist (well, that’s not how he expressed himself, but let’s say he was quite impressed with the automatic). Intended by a double clutch transmission and a automatic converter and would be absolutely free of friction even when starting up and speeding up strongly. Hope you can help me further. Until then, Erkan

Hello together, I bought a Mazda 6, 2,3L, Kombi Bj. 2003 a few weeks ago. He has about 75,000 km down. Unfortunately I have a problem. If I am acceleration and in a range from 1500 to 2000 revolutions, then he is jerking. It is rather a soft jerking and especially noticeable when driving up the mountain. In cold condition it is much stronger than in warm. Even after a longer motorway ride he has jerked. Had it now already the third time in the workshop. First of all, it is much stronger than in warm. After the diagnosis examination they thought it would lie on an ignition cable and replaced it. Without success. The second time the ignition coil was replaced and the lamda probe was checked. Also without success. And the third time they installed new spark plugs and a new air volume meter. And of course also without success. Now when I picked up my Mazda last week, I got to hear from the workshop that they did not carry out further investigations and work on the F and that they allegedly telephoned with Mazda and that this jerking is quite normal for this series! Can someone help me further what that could be. Because I can’t imagine something like that at Mazda! Thanks already!

Hello dear Mazda driver, I am about to become one of you. I have to decide between the 165 hp petrol (Nakama) and the 150 hp diesel (Nakama). Actually, I had already set myself on the petrol due to my driving performance (10.000 km). Now, however, I have calculated the total cost (leasing rate including inspections + insurance + car tax) and found that the diesel is about 5 € cheaper per month. This is not the world now, but also k The diesel engine was a bit more fun than the petrol engine during the test drive. Now ask yourself: What would you advise me to do? I drive on the motorway regularly longer (about 1 times a week), but unfortunately I also drive several times a week in the morning to the day care center (about 1 km), and depending on the schedule, this sometimes remains the only ride… Is that too bad for the diesel engine? Short distance is not a moto r well, I already know that, but the route is so unfavorable that there are no meaningful alternatives. Your opinion? Thank you very much! Greetings tigran9

Hello to each other, with our ́96er 626 GV (combi) the right dipped-beam only works in connection with switched on main-beam. That seems curious to me. The plug connection (I assume it is the one with the 3 plugs) I already pulled apart and sprayed in with plenty of W40. I noticed that the plug for the main-beam is broken – but still gets contact. The fuses are fine. Who knows advice? In the meantime I try a used A second topic is that the wiper water pump at the front doesn’t work at all anymore. I can’t get to the part without removing the servo pump cables. I’m afraid of that. Also here the safety is in order. Who has a clue how/where I can measure it, or how I can expand it? Thanks and always good ride and a lot of success at the necessary screwdrivers Wolfgang (Blaubeer)