Category: Mazda 6 & Mazda 626 Forum

Hello together, Would like to buy me a Mazda 6 GJ 2.2 Diesel 175 automatic. I’ve already read a lot. The only thing that makes me worry about is the oil that some already had oil to consume possible engine damage. Driving profile. Every day 100km highway. In principle annual driving profile 95 percent highway of the rest of the country/city. I picked one out and was already on site testing everything looks so good.http://suche.mobile.de/…/details.html?… Bek omme Him for 23500 incl. inspection! Would you advise me or rather not? Greetings Michael

Hi all, have a mazda 626 GF year of construction 99 there constantly lights up the ABS light, TCS light and handbrake light, Here in the forum I looked over the search function for the error cause there is listed that the ABS sensors are to blame. How can I reliably find out if these really are? How is the exchange of their sensors designed? And why does the handbrake light light light light up? edit: have found this here that you should measure the ABS sensors:http://ww w.motor-talk.de/…/…ems-warnleuchte-leucht-t2240400.html Question how do I best measure the sensor? or where do I put the device? Sounds stupidly asked now, but rather stupidly asked than stupidly traded 😀

Greetings, the engine runs very unevenly and shakes in the stationary gas. The speed varies irregularly between 200-900 revolutions. I had installed a new head gasket, in addition curvature seal and those of the intake tube. The Lambda probes, spark plugs and cables are replaced, no improvement. 2 cans brake cleaner I have now emptied in the whole engine compartment, but it showed no effect. A tiny small hair crack I found in the valve lid. I made it with glue, doc h unfortunately this doesn’t seem to be quite dense yet but that doesn’t matter in my opinion even if it discreetly contributes to it. I used to be able to start without giving gas, now it goes out immediately when trying, because it simply does not hold the 850 revolutions. I will soon install the temperature sensor (switch) for the warm-flow controller because I destroyed the current one and check the ignition time. The candle picture was dark golden brown. Could a changed valve play a otherwise the car is well in shot to the surface rust, while driving there are no problems. Mountain from 202 kmh.

I have been driving a Mazda 626 GF 1.8 l 90 hp Bj 99 (before Facelift) for a few weeks, with proven only 106 tkm, reasonably maintained. Now the engine sometimes runs out. I have no idea why, maybe someone can give a hint, because no other thread exactly pastes. But in detail: The engine always runs out on the first kilometer, i.e. in the first 5 minutes. The error is not reproducible, it happens only about every 5th drive. It happens both in idle (in standing position) The engine starts again and again immediately, when driving in partial load / when accelerating, you can only notice it as a short but violent jerking, after which it runs normally. There are no other symptoms (neither bad jump-on, nor restless idle, nor swallowing, jerking or similar). I think it is due to a component of the motor electrics. A reading of the error memory at Mazda has only one error in the I have already repaired the immobilizer, but there were two cold soldering points in the control unit which had led to a bad jump. According to ecu, the ECUs repair, the WFS control unit has only one influence when starting, after which it can be theoretically disconnected, i.e. it cannot be involved in a dropout during the ride, i.e. the error is not stored in the error memory. On the basis of the read threads I type on the Hall Sensor or the ignition distributor, a defective one on the ignition lock I think is unlikely, why should it always occur in the first 5 minutes. And still, I don’t know if it has a relevance: first of all, the TCS light is always on when the engine goes out. And if the going out happens during the ride, the immobilizer always registers after going out / jerking without turning the ignition key: light on, light off, as is the case with normal starting. Thank you for tips.

Hello everybody, my wife and I want to buy us a car this year. Since there may be young people coming, the following cars (with the – from my point of view – respective Pros and Cons): – Opel Zafira Tourer [Pro: Lots of space / Con: heavy and high consumption, technology (especially Tote Winkel Assi, Navi) outdated] – Opel Astra Combi (new model) [Pro: More modern technology (Matrix LED), more space than the old, chic design / Con: trunk still no wonder of space, no ACC] – Opel I nsignia Kombi [Pro: ACC, chic / Con: Heavy, technically no longer the youngest, small trunk] – Mazda 6 Kombi [Pro: Very chic, modern engines, good technology (ACC, Tote Winkel Assi, City emergency brake,..) / Con: Is the trunk enough?] With Skoda, etc. I can’t really get along with… What matters to me: For one place in the trunk, modern assistance systems, LED light (blank-free driving beam) and automatic. – Can you use the Mazda to three and pram and brim two weeks – How satisfied are you with the Navi? Are the traffic reports quite up to date or can it be “only” TMC? – How well do ACC, Tote Winkel Assi and the LED light work? Best regards!

Hello, I am here rather quiet reader, but now I need your advice. So I bought my first own car, a Mazda 6 SportKombi Diesel (105kW) BJ07 in November 2010. Clearly shown as ‘in perfect’ condition. Since it is quite cold outside at this time, I did not notice that the air conditioning does not cool. But when it got so slowly warmer then, April to May, I noticed that the KA does not cool. I then made my Mazda in June as a friendly After a few discussions, the KA worked perfectly. Then, however, the cooling capacity was drastically reduced until it did not cool at all. I was back this morning again, they looked at the car for almost 2 hours and thought 2 lines were defective, cost point about 300 euros, as this unfortunately did not come into the used car warranty fall. I am not a mechanic, but the cables are not over from today to tomorrow? Wouldn’t that have to be noticed already with the air conditioning maintenance? I am not really willing to pay that, because I assume that a car should be in perfect condition, also in this condition. And unfortunately, with the air conditioning is also not the only thing that the car showed in the hindsight of defects. Can you maybe enlighten me? H that pay or the AH? Is that all right? LG vime

Hello, I bought a Mazda 6 2.0 petrol BJ. 2005 2 weeks ago. I bought the car checkbook from a dealer (only 40 000 km…). Is also click everything tip-top…. except the fact that the car is slightly jerking at approx. 2000-2200 revolutions. As a passenger you can’t notice that. But this only happens if I leave the foot quite easily on the gas. Otherwise the driving mode of the car is flawless! But that’s exactly the speed of the car. In the 4th gear, when driving comfortably 50-60 km/h. And then it strikes you quite annoying (as a driver…). Did this complain to the dealer- who meant the car is driving quite normal.In case of a mistake the control light would flash. Did then replay me the software. But did not change anything…. I already thought of AGR or Lambdasonde… but wouldn’t they cause an error message? Am I too sensitive…. is that normal? How are your experiences?

Moin Moin, on the Mazda 626 (Bj 99) of my father-in-law, had a problem with the ZV/Ffb. Do not know the car otherwise. He approached me because the radio remote control suddenly did not work anymore. At that time he had already changed the battery in the remote control and because of failure got a new remote control (original of Mazda). Unfortunately he also got it with the new one not running. I thought it would be the learning procedure and got me the thing today times Unfortunately, the learning procedure does not work. The car does not seem to be able to call the mode. Normally, the ZV should show a movement in the procedure after the door contact switch has been operated 3 times. Nothing is moving here. I checked the door contact switches for function, the light gets darker when you press them. However, I noticed that the ZV itself shows a strange behaviour: I assume that all doors through the ZV open/ge If you open/close the driver’s door manually with the key over the lock, don’t you think? At least this is how it works on the passenger side. If I use the key on the passenger side, open/close all doors including the driver’s door. If I use the key on the driver’s side, only the driver’s door can be opened/closed. All other doors are not addressed. That doesn’t seem normal. Ht functional Ffb is responsible? Where is the error here? Many thanks and greetings!

Hello MTs, lately I’ve been having a lot of problems with jerking when accelerating in the speed range 1500 to 3000. According to research in the net it’s often because of: * worn / wrong spark plugs * bad / dirty ignition cables * dirty air mass meter * dirty air filters So first of all everything that can be controlled and fixed relatively cost-effectively. Here is the first problem: With the videos in the net you always see as nice as the ignition cables simply off I’m not going back or anything. Is there a trick for the ignition cables to get them down? If I pull even tighter, I’m afraid that I’ll pull the whole car up in the front of the car.

I am faced with the purchase decision: Mazda 6 or BMW 3 Series (F30). 318dA or similar Limousine, Diesel, Automatic, Navi are especially important to me. Pro BMW: find the 8-stage automatic and Navi better in the BMW. Sportier. Pro Mazda: Better equipment for less money. Spacious. Quiet diesel. Price up to approx. 30,000 euros. Therefore, a young used person at BMW or Mazda comes into my question. Sure, am here in the Mazda Forum. But can you give me advantages and disadvantages to make my decision Thank you.