Category: Mazda 6 & Mazda 626 Forum

Hello, I hope this is the right page for my problem. I hope you can help me After work I wanted to drive home, but my car didn’t sprang up, I thought the battery and bridged it but nothing pasted. then pushed it on and went against nothing. Last way ADAC, the good people came about after 1 std and was checked by the ADAC staff where they found that the immobilizer flashed although ignition was on, we only stayed my Mazda at The next day, the butchered message at my Mazda workshop, the engine locker is defective and the immobilizer is blocking everything. The nice Mazda masters thought it would cost about 2900 euros. But since I just don’t have the 2900 euros and the car has about 10 years and 280 000 km I didn’t think it would pay so much money to put in there. there the nice masters meant that I should pay 500 euros, because they checked it and the Ellekt ricker has a STD wage of about 98 euro. After agreement of 300 I was able to tow my car back home. Then I expanded the engine control unit and shikt to the technology center, Hello, now I have even more problems. the motor control grave I got back today from Technicker Zentrum Filderstadt. I paid almost 520 euro to the technician center, the engine control unit installed in the yard now runs my car back, NIX since still the same error, everything le uchtet and the immobilizer still flashes (then my motor control unit was not defective at all or? ) Please give me a advice where the errors lie almost 900 euro paid to Mazda and technician center and it still does not run WHERE comes the error that the immobilizer always flashes even though the key is stuck. Ps: I forgot there was still a sheet of the technology center, where they describe to me what else to do. cabularization ring antenna testing, if necessary ring antenna new ern. (what is a ring antenna) Renew pressure control valve on high pressure pump (is that the Disel pump? )

Hallihallo. I went out three times this morning on my way to work while braking and at the same time uncoupled the car. He can then start immediately again, but in the turn-off process this is not so funny, if the car suddenly can be steered so badly :/ I have to say that I have to step the accelerator pedal before starting, because it otherwise sticks. Yes, I know, I should have taken care of it (is the throttle flap, or?) but I’ve tried it myself. The car has run 190,000 km, has been running smoothly and smoothly on LPG since 8,000 km, runs about 30,000 km a year, mainly long distance and the ABS sensor at the front left is broken. But that has nothing to do with it, doesn’t it? Does anyone have an idea? VlG Miss K.

hello, we have acquired a mazda 6 mps per. from the mazda dealer with 166ps,160 000km of running power and built year 2002, petrol. and everything that belongs to this 😉 my question is now: does our model have a control chain? is there a list with the equipment features that the mazda has? what do I have to keep in mind? how are the maintenance intervals? have read anything with nem turbo?or was the construction year dependent? ne uplitation of the motors which tooth belts or control chain have? unfortunately could I’m not so busy with the car yet, since our treasure is only coming next week 🙂 we used to drive the mazda 323f ba for 6 years 🙂 was a nice car! I uploaded 2 photos of our treasure 🙂

Hello 🙂 Maybe you can help me- everyone thinks I’m stupid. My car has a problem. Or maybe I have one… Well, I imagine that between 85 and 95 km/h, the most noticeable thing is something funny in 5th gear on very smooth asphalt. It feels like the car has a brake plate at the front right. But it didn’t. The tyres at the front are new and because I’ve been so nervous several times. I can’t do that well. It feels like the one front tire is driving over the smallest floor waves, the other one doesn’t. It doesn’t clack, you don’t feel in the steering wheel. Somehow the “vibrations” are different. Under 85 km/h it’s not there, over 95 km/h either. Whether it occurs at higher speeds I don’t know, because it’s too discreet to be noticed when driving faster. It kind of roars a little. The stupid thing is that nobody believes me. n tested to independently confirm that there is nothing there. But I just notice something. Whether on the driver’s or passenger’s seat. Can this be the wheel bearing? Or does it make itself so noticeable when fall or track are set? Can it be because the brake discs are soon at the end at the front? Or because an ABS sensor may be over? (TCS and ABS lights are permanently lit). What can this be? Does anyone have an idea? I would be grateful for tips. VlG Miss K.

Heyho, since I want to switch from the Golf IV to a bigger car, I looked at some Mazda 6 type GG1 on the Internet. Preferably as a combo. Now I have a few questions about the Mazda 6. Does this one have a computer on board (consumption, kilometers, time, door a,b,c,d still open) as I know it from the Gulf? Because I would hate to make a bigger step backwards in terms of technology. The second would be the radio. I like optically, but has no USB. is only unfortunately not in the form as I know it. Is there certain mounting frames to be able to transport even normal radios into the shaft? Finally, what do I have to pay attention to when buying? I heard the rust precaution at the Mazda should not be so good. Are there places where the rust especially likes to collect? Thank you in advance Greetings Watzke

Hello to all. I hope there is someone who can help me. I have a problem with the display so you have to change the display so you have to change the display so you have to change the clock, (after pressing on “INFO” average consumption etc.), the radio station or CD track and quite correctly the setting of the ventilation and teperature for inside as well as outside. My problem here is this: Mostly in the morning, in the complete area of the temperature and ventilation display is not displayed as should be seen on the picture. To see the noon time when I then drive home after work is again in best order. If I then have late service, on the way to work everything is in order and on the way home nothing is displayed to me. This makes it about since 2-3weeks. If on the display there is nothing to see, but I turn on the ventilation control to either turn up the ventilation or the air conditioning again I have to say again that this work is done again, but I can’t see anything that I can get out of the air, but also the whole thing.

Hello together, my Mazda 6 GY 2.0 petrol bj. 2002 with 141hp starts badly. Specifically: No matter what temperature, it always needs 4-7 revolutions until it starts, but then reliable. The battery is not yet old and both charged, as well as fine, because it is not. I have noticed with another vehicle that the ECU calculates the OT position itself, if the camshaft sensor is defective and therefore the start process lasts longer. Can this also be the case with Mazda? Or do you have other ideas? Thank you for your help. Florian

Hello ! This morning I started the car and waited for a short moment until the speed was no longer high. All of a sudden the engine control light turns on and the speed goes back to 2,000-2,500 + I noticed a strong rise of white smoke from the exhaust. I switched off the car and started again and the problem was gone, I could drive to work without any problems. Now I want to know why this could happen, I experienced this for the first time and I can’t explain it to myself. (The car was standing obliquely and I was dressed in neutral with the handbrake) Thanks for your help LG Nikola

Hello together, recently the ventilation of my 626 GF spins. I have already searched the Internet and read the articles here and found nothing. I even assume that the problem is a known one, because I have found various partial approaches in posts, but nothing that fits 100%. So the problem is that the climate automation is in principle probably functional, but the direction of the air flow is not changed. So display displays e.g. windshield and/or footroom, but air always comes from the nozzles of the dashboard. Even in manual mode, the air always comes from the middle nozzles, no matter what mode I choose. Otherwise, the system reacts both in car and in manual mode to all the on/off/off/eco switchovers, i.e. ventilation strength, climate/off/eco, temperature adjustment. Does anyone have any idea what this could be? And is this the thing that you can repair yourself?

Hello, I need your help once. I had a Mazda 6 GG. 2.3 Kombi about 7 years ago. I bought it as a transitional car with 225,000 KM. I drove about 40,000 km in 2 years and didn’t have to plug a Euro into the car (except petrol ÖL and what is “Normal” at 40t KM drive) because it just drove. Unfortunately I had to give it to the export because of rust then because it did not get a TÜV anymore. I was so convinced of the car that I now want to get a Mazda 6 again. I find the old models however simply nicer… Currently I have the possibility of a Mazda 6 1.8 Kombi (2010) 120 HP (88 kW)