Category: Mazda 6 & Mazda 626 Forum

Hello Forumgemeinde. I have a Mazda 6 2.0 diesel bj. 2003. I have the following problem, it consumes quite a lot of oil at the moment and it also exhales very strongly. Tags over it looks as if it is only soot, but in the dark when a car drives behind me and I see the smoke in the spotlight is somehow bluish. Now my question what could it be. My suspicion is head seal, but am not sure if I am right there. Thanks already for your help.

Hello people ! I’m new here and I have a concern at the moment. I acquired the first Mazda in my life. A 6 Sport Kombi 1.8 GG1 from 2006. Before buying at the DEKRA on stage from below. I only got a fresh TÜV in April. Now in August we found out that this round thing (red arrow) is loose. Like a bushing with rubber. At the front axle on the crossbar left. The DEKRA man said this was a vibration damper and no problem I hope that one of the professionals can help us. Otherwise I still have to be friendly. I am looking forward to the puzzle solution 😉 Greetings to all

Hello, I drive a Mazda 626 2.2i GD built in 1990. Well, suitable for the summer, my air conditioning is on strike. Together with a cold chill I wanted to refill the system, because we suspected a leak. Unfortunately, the system did not suck in a refrigerant. The KAB meant that the system is probably clogged at the dryer or in the capillaries. Now I wanted to open up without the circuit, because the system is still filled with R12 and this expert has to be disposed of, which So I screwed on the glove compartment and now I can’t get any further. Behind the glove cover is a black box in which, to my knowledge, the capillary can be found. But unfortunately, I can’t open the box. Now to my question: Can I open the box only in extended condition? If I’ve seen this correctly, it’s a screw-down of the back and back cooling pipe in the engine compartment and thus an opening of the cooling circuit. necessary, right? Where can I get spare parts for my air conditioning (such as capillaries, dryers…)? Thank you for your answers in advance. Greetings, mriedel35

In the last 14 days I had twice the case that I had the feeling on the brake pedal when braking just before the stop, the ABS went on. Just a quick jerk. I bought the car in November 2017 (because my beloved old 626 got no TÜV anymore) The brake fluid, brake discs and pads were made new. The ABS usually does not work at this speed and otherwise it brakes quite normal, even if I make a full braking. It is a 626 GF year 1998. 2.0, 116, PS 223,000 km Has anyone ever had such a thing? I would be very grateful for a tip. Renate

Hello, has anyone had anything to do with massive rust in the side sleepers besides the known rust problems of the rear wheel runs year 2003, 98000 km? Nothing to see from the outside, but a small error in the jacking up (slipping of the jack) pushed in or through the threshold and from the resulting crack the rust crumbled without end. The material is buttery soft. Culance request at FOH still resulted in an own part of 500.-, with which I did not inversely direct negotiation with Mazda did not give any other decision. Is there any further experience in this regard? Also information about problems with the brake calipers (v+h) would be helpful. Had to be replaced by all 4. Wheel bearing front at km 58000 !!! defective. Everything according to dealer quite normal, which I can not quite understand. Hope for plenty of information. Muschnik

Hello guys, I’m new here and have a question. My colleague bought a Mazda 626 V Hatchback 2.0 ( 115 HP ) Bj.99 and don’t know if the timing belt has already been changed. I mean the car has 125 000 km on the tacho and I told him that it’s quite dangerous just to drive on. I don’t know the timing belt intervals at the Mazda because I drive an Audi, but I guess the timing belt change is certainly also made at 90 to 120 000 km Now the question: When should the timing belt be changed and how much does it cost??? Thank you for the answers.

Hello, only yesterday I bought a Mazda 6. During the visit as well as the test drive and the long way home of almost 400 kilometers and various tank stops there were no problems. Only when I just wanted to go to work begins the “fun”. I got in and everything worked as it should, not 300 meters away from the front door I had to stop at a gyro and suddenly the engine went out. He jumped immediately again but since then he runs terribly restless and took only garkein gas more on and then suddenly he shot high at the pedal. From about 2000 revolutions everything sounds quite normal and I can also hold it high up to 6000 revolutions. As soon as I release the pedal, however, it immediately drops to zero and goes off and it starts to run and seems to run normally in idle, no strange noises nothing, as soon as I then give gas again starts the fun from the front off and goes off or it starts or starts at the lower speed z I noticed that in the higher speed range, the TCS/DSC light starts to flash. The MKL glows permanently. I just tried to disconnect the battery to eliminate the error. Strangely enough, this also worked. The car started to start and started to run straight away, at the moment when I pressed the accelerator pedal but everything started again from the front… I immediately called the seller in Nuremberg and asked him what he sold to me. But he thinks that he never had such problems, he drove the car himself until yesterday and also to the registration office he drove the car, he was only registered yesterday. So what can that be? Did I really buy a car with engine damage or can possibly be something smaller behind it? I don’t know, because at least all my savings for the car went on yesterday… And it would be fatal if he turned out to be a scrap. I hope m The car was built in 2002 with the 2.3 liter machine and 166 hp.

Hello I found nothing in the sufu unfortunately. And I would like to know exactly how smart key system works at the mazda 6 gh? Would be really great. Thank you in advance

Hello I greet you, I am looking for a new used one and love to look for a Mazda 6 from the year 2004 – 2010. However, since I am not at all familiar with Mazda I wanted to ask you for help on what I have to pay attention to. – Which machine (petrols) can be safely recommended in terms of robustness? – Do the motors have timing belts or chain? – What are the changing intervals? – Inspection costs for the small and large – What “weak spots” are there? I would like to ask you to check out your purchase (in terms of body and engine) – which equipment is recommended or what is Mazda’s full equipment and how do you recognize it – How satisfied are you with your Mazda and would you buy one again? I would like to thank you in advance for your help.

Hi together, during my test drive I noticed that the car runs out completely, when I press the start/stop button, so NOT like (e.g.) my BMW the things like radio etc. stay on. Can you change that somehow or is that just like that? I don’t mean the automatic, but that what used to be the ignition key was background, that I really like listening to audio books, and if I want to take a break for 5 minutes, the audio book is allowed to continue, I am schli in the car and listen …. during the test drive it was like that, once you stop, everything was out. Press again (without a clutch, otherwise it will start ….), then it connects again via BT (which lasts forever ….) Do I find stupid ….. someone’s tip ?