Category: Mazda 6 & Mazda 626 Forum

Hello everybody, I’m starting to despair. Drive a Mazda 6 BJ 2003 Diesel 136 HP. For several months I’ve had the problem that the engine (also on the highway) simply runs out. I couldn’t actually notice a power loss of the engine. When starting it sometimes happens that it is a bit jerking and not running round after a few km that settles again. Last week it came to the first time I needed about 30 min before the engine started. obleme already had? The workshop can’t help me at all and requires 25 euros each time for error reading. Thank you for your help.

You love, I have great hope that you can help me. I drive a Mazda 6 GG1 2L 108 KW Bj. 2008 It was converted at Mazda factory with the Autogasanlage of Teleflex GFI. It is 2 years old and has 164 TKM. The first of the 4 gas lines conduction pulls false air and causes false ignition on the cylinder 1. This has the consequence that the car jerks and does not bring any performance, especially on the mountain to notice or to overtake. Therefore, I want to with all 4 connections d Unfortunately, I have not been able to find a workshop in Munich where I can get help. Who could name a workshop or workshop in the Munich region that could solve my problem? I would be very grateful to you for that.

Hello, I have a Mazda 626 built in 1999, in itself a fine vehicle, but now I have a problem with the warning lamps – namely, these lights shine. In the workshop the brakes were then renewed at the front only blocks, rear windows and coals. The mechanic has checked so far and assured me that the suspension and the brakes are in order mechanically. So I am happy, get in – all lamps off and start the same game already after 10 minutes, Brem warning lamp and ABS are on….. Does anyone have any idea how to tackle the problem without having to spend a lot of money on expensive workshops?

I have the following problem with my Xenon burners… On the left (driver side) the burner of my M6 BJ 03/2004 “below” stops, while the right adjusts quite normally, depending on the loading condition. The problem occurred the first time after the tyre change. Even after several days no change. -^-> Visit to the friendly MH: error memory read out, EVERYTHING i.o.! ECUs are OK! …could hang the engine of the height adjustment, I should drive a bump road, v ichlicht it works, otherwise a new headlight housing… (450€) HAAAALLLOOO? Well, it worked anyway! Holperstraße long ironed and the headlight height adjustment worked again perfectly. …BIS… My car was last for inspection! After that I had the same problem again, only that the trick with the holper track did not work anymore! Did transitional way by screwdriver the light width “adapted”. (but is not permanent condition) I assume that possibly. a sensor for the loading condition is defective. But where does this one sit which one? CAN MIR IRGENTWHERE TIPS BEING OR BETTER WITH FUNDED KNOWLEDGE FAITH?

Hello to all, although I have read a lot here I could not find an answer to my question. Therefore here my drawn questions with the request for your participation. After guidance (on the diagnostic box GND & TBS bridged) I determined the code 14 (ABS sensor hi/li). ABS sensor hi/li replaced. After an instruction (10x brake pedal operated) and deleted the error from the error memory. Sporadic error still present. All four sensors cleaned and resistance measured a Inconspicuous. Battery disconnected and all plugs incl. the v. control unit sprayed with contact spray. Sporadic error still exists. AC voltage of the ABS sensors rear wheels measured and determined that when the wheels rotate about the same, the AC voltage on the right is only half as large as on the left. However, code 14 (ABS sensor hi/li) was shown.Now my question: Is it o.K. that one sensor brings less AC voltage than the other sensor? /re with less AC voltage is defective even though code 14 ABS sensor hi/li is output?

ABS control unit Mazda 626 Hello, today I had the error memory of my Mazda 626 Kombi Bj.98 read out after the ABS/TCS people are always on.The error codes 53 and 54 were displayed.According to Mazda the control unit (467€) or the hydaulic part (1455€) must be renewed.Can someone tell me if that is true.

My Mazda has been consuming a lot of oil since recently. Everything is dry in the engine room. Before 10,000 km 5w-30 (although I had ordered online 10w-40!) was tipped in by a workshop and is now loud measuring rod empty.. Even before 10w-40 the oil consumption was so high. My question now, can I just tip 10w-40 on top of it? It should be very little 5w-30 still in there, hope that that doesn’t matter. And for increased consumption the spark plugs came into my mind. if. Unfortunately, I can’t find one on the Internet that fits my engine! Most of them are suitable for the year 2000 or from Bosch. My 98 year of construction can help me? Should NGKs or Denso be.

Hello Mazda driver! My father-in-law drives a Mazda 6 1.8 petrol year 2006! He now has problems with the oil consumption! Since April 2012 he has now had to fill at just under 1000 km holds 2 liters after! The free workshop has filled him with engine oil with SAE 5W40 at the last change in September 2011! This oil is not in the recommendation in the manual! There I find 5W30 or 10W40! Since the next change is due, I would like to have your opinion and recommendation about the engine oil! Thank you!

Hi, I’m looking for a cheap mid-range car and the 6 GJ has come into my short selection. I found it close to me and will do the test ride for days. How do you find the general one?https://suche.mobile.de/…/details.html?…

Hello forum, I have a very funny problem with my Mazda 626 GF/GW Kombi 2,0 petrol. After I started the engine and started the first time, a funny hissing noise comes from the front left of the engine compartment. After that when driving and even after stopping at a traffic light or so nothing unusual is anymore. Now I tried to let the MAzda roll on with the ignition on. See also without the engine started this noise comes in. In the attachment a film with anrol Len. The cracking at the end is the handbrake, so has nothing to do with the noise. Does anyone have an idea what that can be? I’ve been doing this for quite a while and I mean it’s getting louder.