Category: Mazda MX-5, RX7 & RX8 Forum

Hello together, actually I have no idea of cars, but have great fun getting my Aygo on the road and also sometimes (too often) driving with squeaky tires around curves. I don’t often expect the consumption, but it was already at 9.3 liters. Then it can be something faster, heck-driven. I fell in love with the MX-5 some time ago and now have a car in view, which I could pick up on Sunday. Because of my missing W Data: MX-5 Miracle 2003 120tkm 120PS HU to 03.22 Price: 3700€ (has already been traded down from 4200€ and there will be no more room for manoeuvre) I have experienced the following telephone, the saleswoman seemed relatively honest and pointed out further shortcomings of herself: – 2nd hand, so a previous owner – Current driver was for 16 years mainly an old lady, d The reason for the sale is the age of the lady. – No accident damage known – The radio is included, that only always makes the lady out because of worry about theft. – Just leave out, slow down and should feel more stable at high speeds than at slow – Should have no oil consumption, motor should be dry – With the oil change, however, it was not seen so seriously, “main thing is enough inside”. Letz the oil change is no longer readable. She thinks, however, that this would not have been longer than 2-3 years ago. – The brackets from the hard top are rented, whereby I found on YouTube an inexpensive repair possibility Independent of the short distance and the oil change mentality I take care of rust-technically. With the sills was already made according to the seller something from the workshop. That something was done, you can also see on the pictures. Only it affects on the pictures just also s o, as if there were rust again there? According to the saleswoman, this is only flying rust. That was not painted at the places, would not bother me. To the unpainted places you said it was something that would feel like the wheel caps. I absolutely can not estimate what was done for a repair and how the current condition of the parts is. Next to the picture of the Schweller I insert screenshots from the inside of the wheel runs from videos that she sent me. Because of my lack of experience with cars, I don’t understand what I’m looking at and what this should look like… so excuse me if the pictures aren’t meaningful. Thank you for your support in advance.

Hey, with my Mazda mx-5 NC 2.0 L Niseko, the clutch pedal is always after this year when it gets hot, so it goes through empty until I can’t get in/out of gear at all. After a certain time without any action, the clutch goes again so that you can at least couple and the next day it’s normal again. I noticed this last time when I was standing in the traffic jam and could hardly drive on. Once you are in, it goes without coupling somewhat, abe r is a problem. The lower clutch cylinder has already been replaced..and since I have a grinding noise, if the clutch pedal is not kicked, which disappears as soon as I step in the clutch, I also read the back bearing (Bzw then the whole clutch, since already removed). The problem with the grinding noise still exists when the car is cold and today where it is again very hot, I realize that the other problem still exists. Before I try to share any more good luck, I wanted to ask you for advice, if any of you had the same problem? Greetings

Hello guys, looking for a cheap convertible I came across the MX 5. Yesterday I drove an NB, was good, even though with my 1.86 a little compact in sitting, but the 50 km were well feasible I would be interested as the experts here judge this offer:https://www.ebay-kleinanzeigen.de/…/996570192-216-8364?… Is it around the corner, the pictures and the description I like, the Km-Stand not so, even if that’s not so bad with the car sol l, right? Again for what I need the car: five times a week 50 km, especially highway from garage to garage plus a few weekend trips. The car should stop at least four years without major repairs (exclusive maintenance and small stuff of course), budget max 7,000. Thank you!

Hello dear community, I intend to add an NC soon (160 hp, hard top). Probably a pre-facelift model, because I don’t want to spend more than 8,000. I have read some threads and noted a lot of things. Some points are still not clear. Now I hope that you would be so kind, based on your extensive experience, to help me with the following questions. 1. I understand that models have (may) a motor problem before 2009. f the oil burning due to faulty thermostats. Correct? 2. Does the engine damage occur suddenly at 1 or are there signals that indicate this and enable counter-action? 3. Is there a mileage from which a purchase makes no sense? So I understood that the cars are indeed (apart from point 1) super reliable. If so it has to be a with 120,000km or can one take also equal with 200,000km? Thank you in advance and best regards

A question to *all MX-5 owners*: My heart still beats for the small Japanese – light, large series technology, affordable. After the sale of my last car (no convertible) I had looked at a type NC (Bj. 2014) and had to realize that I did not fit in at first. I am not very large (1,81) and also not very heavy (hugging…94kg), but probably a seat giant. In the car (one with fabric cover) I sat completely with the head on the cover. Didn’t happen at all. Out of frustration I bought a Megane CC 😉 But the heart is still somehow still with the MX-5. A colleague has the type ND, however as Targa. So also there is a seat sample – not quite as bad as in the type NC, but still very borderline, especially in the area of the not existing headroom. I actually finished with the dream when I saw a 2018er (so type ND) with fabric cover, which I could not yet try out. And see because: it fits, up is even a piece of air. However, this has the optional Recaro seats, which for me were also very – erm – borderline narrow. Other type ND are not to be found here in the vicinity unfortunately ?? How are your experiences – can this with me and the MX-5 still be with a type ND with “normal” seats? I must admit, of course, that the whole rest is also very narrow cut. Yes, I know – Roadster halt. Whether I can deal with it permanently, I know naturally The Megane CC is, on the other hand, like a spaceship… Yes, a slightly larger model (SLK, Z4) would certainly be the better choice in the end. But quite honestly? The surcharge is simply not worth it to me… Thank you very much in advance!

Good morning together, I’ve been the proud owner of a 91er US-Miatas since this week and have a few general questions for the professionals among you – What tire size/light size do you drive and how does it affect the performance? My Miata currently has 185/50?/R15…but they are already 13 years old and have to be renewed accordingly. If I want to drive 195er or 205er now, does this have a negative effect on the driving characteristics? does it say “if necessary”? – Do your Miatas beep even if the ignition/motor is on and the doors are open? Mine has a small pen on both doors, if it is not pressed, it beeps terribly. No it is not the light Can you put that out somehow? – Are there any steering wheels (Momo, Sparco, etc.) MIT airbag for the Miata “Performance”? – What is the exact name of the hoses left of the throttle flap? Are these the “water hose throttle flap to the oil cooler” (Beze ilmotorsport)? I’ve read many articles about it with many different opinions, so I’m sorry if one or the other question has been asked before. Thank you very much.

Hello all, our NBFL is having problems on Monday. On Monday morning the car just didn’t want to start. After several attempts in the afternoon he jumped on. During a small ride he suddenly went out. I then checked and found that if he does not start, only a short spark arrives at the candles. OSB connected and error P1345 shown. Camshaft sensor. New bought and built in. First he jumped without any problems. But after The problem came back to several starters. Presumably the crankshaft sensor has a defect. I ordered a new one now. Must be there next week. Candles and ignition cables are ordered. (Can’t hurt). Cables are still the first. Built.2002 Kn140000. Now to my question: is there anything to consider with the crankshaft sensor installation? . Old screw off and new one and look at that the distance to the belt disc has 5-15 mm? Is there anything to consider? Best regards to the MX5 municipality

Hello all, I just bought a Mazda Mx5 nb. Before the sale completely new TÜV came up with it. I was with him and he examiner told me that the car is in a great condition. In the protocol he listed no defects, but the two hints: ” -ground group and axle body partly rusted – brake line at the rear left and right rusted ” After the test I was at a workshop to change oil. There was noticed that a brake was a bit firm. I had all the pads and the windows changed in the back. In addition, the seals were changed in the brake calipers. Afterwards the workshop manager approached me and said that the car is not traffic-proof overall and he would be very surprised how it had come through the TÜV a few days ago. I then contacted the branch manager in the corresponding Dekra branch, who told me that he also kei on the photos. In my opinion, the brake line is very rusty. Is this relevant for the TÜV and for my safety? As a file I also attach a video of the underbody. Thank you very much! Artur

Hello together. I’m just thinking of putting on a fun car (above open). At the moment I share a car with my wife. Sometimes a bit clumsy. I live in England and the used car market is clearly different here. The MX-5 is praised here again and again in highest tones when it comes to sportiness. Conceptually also logical. But now I don’t know myself at all. Optics of the different models is sniffy for me. What can you tell me about the e different models say? are there certain motors of which you prefer to leave your fingers behind? Are there possible types NA, type NB/NB-FL type NC. There are endless offers within a radius of 50 miles in the price range between 1k-5k. All this overwhelms me. Any need haves in equipment? Do the cover problems? What about the space conditions at 1.92m? Thanks already in advance.

I wanted to know what it’s like to install a turbo. But don’t use it in everyday life and when you’re on the race track you let it run with 1 bar or so do you have to use the tubro entries but no increase in performance?