Category: Mazda MX-5, RX7 & RX8 Forum

Moinsen, probably a stupid question, but ….. My recently acquired NB FL Bj. 2002 is in the workshop for the 90,000 inspection. This just called me and told me that the climate was completely empty and whether they should refill it. Then I said: “The car has no climate!” The laughter in the workshop was clearly heard, because of course the car would have a climate, they were just in front of it. I pointed out that it would have been sold to me a) without climate. nd b) there would be no switch in the cockpit for the climate. Anyway, they could fill the “climate” from me. I was tensed. 1 hour later a call from the workshop would be very strange, because the car would actually not have a switch for the climate (what) although the complete “hardware” would be installed incl. cable channels. However, since they could not test the climate without a switch, they now let everything off again (of course without calculating it). Question: What reason can there be that the vehicle has a climate including all the attachments, but does not have a corresponding switch in the vehicle. Could it be a later installed that is switched somewhere else? Or in general, does someone know a similar case? Thank you very much!

Hello! I am 21 years old and bought my first car a year ago, a Mazda 3 for approx. 12,000 euros. Year of construction 2014, the km stand has since risen from approx. 60k to 64k. I earn quite well and have hardly enjoyed anything so far. I now consider selling the Mazda 3 and buying instead an MX-5 RF. I will probably move in October and then drive significantly more. (roughly 10-20k km) I would buy the RF version, as I will buy the Blechdac h is much more beautiful than the fabric version. I would probably keep the car for 4 years, then possibly sell it again. Since I have had good experience with the 3s I would like to buy the car again via the Mazda stock exchange at a Mazda dealer. Another dealer would be fine, private purchase is not really possible for me. I have some unexplained questions in my mind and hope that I can be helped here: 1. Is the MX-5 RF also for further routes (15 0-200km) and pleasant in winter? 2. How much is my Mazda 3 now worth? The used car prices have risen last year as far as I know, I have not found a comparable vehicle for 12000 euros. However, I would sell as a private person – with what amount can I realistically calculate? 3. Prices for the MX-5 are already significantly different – There are models for 22k, 25k, 30k etc. – Which price range is here of the price/performance ratio and related resaleswe rt most meaningful? With my 3s I had hardly any problems and Mazda seems to be generally durable. As long as the car is in good condition I actually have nothing against a slightly older one, but if it is useful I could also spend more money on a newer/newer one. 4. What do I have to consider with the equipment? What differences are there here and what is (not) worth? 5. 2022 there was a facelift – Does that have any relevance for me? The design looks a little better but I don’t think this alone is worth the difference in price. Edit: 6. Is the 132hp version enough or should you take the 184hp version?

My NBFL bj 2001, 1.6er doesn’t want to start anymore? I had a very weak battery and then my mx5 was standing for 3 weeks without moving, I thought it was due to a blank battery and then called the ADAC, battery was connected to starter set and still the engine did not start, error code was read out and it should be the immobiliser? I tried it with a second key then and it still doesn’t start. Starter works and motor turns Now the question is whether it could really be the electronic immobilizer or if it has another cause ? is this a known problem with mx5? I have read that it might also be on the camshaft sensor, maybe I would buy and replace a used sensor. I hope you still have some tips for me.

Moin dear community, I had rolled the days at night in traffic jam (longer time in the first gear, often uncoupled and again, standstill… jam stop) at once engine drop-outs. U.U. only from 1500RPM or if you (at the start) caused load by coupling in. Flight also started the MKL. Briefly breathed through and quite firmly pondering… did everything there to read out and at least see if I reach something myself. So read out and just P1345, briefly googled, camshaft sensor. f and the sensor once removed, check. Nix seen, reinstalled. Bitsl on the cables. Error deleted, continued. Couple hundred meters later (still in traffic jam, therefore several minutes later) same problem. So again bonnet on, this time only the plug re-plugged several times. The next 400km was everything ok. Had then the days nen bissl Caramba injected into plug and socket. Today very similar traffic jam and again the same problem. new (still good oily), the next 50km (up to home just) everything ok. Does not feel for me after a sensor defect, but rather cable / contact problems. But what do you say? 1. Is in the first gear clearly under 1500rpm longer time loaming particularly violent (special vibration frequencies?) for plug contacts or any other in the motor? 2.) Sensor possibly nevertheless defective? 3.) Is the 1,9er NB sensor really compatible with the 1,9er NBFL? Remove the sensor from my other NB and put it in the glove compartment. I depend on my car tomorrow. Greetings Erinya

Hello, does any of you have an MX-5 NC with automatic transmission, or has you ever driven one? Would I be interested in what its experience is like with it.

Moin Moin, have bought me a 1.8 NC from 2012 with 27,000km. Checkbook maintained. However, I would like to inform myself what you should pay attention to at the NCs, apart from rust. Have read from time to time about some problems with the engine and otherwise only from rust … what do your experience values look like? Greeting

Moin, wants to fit into my current vehicle 3.6 Diff. I just drive too much highway and like to look at how that feels. Then the odometer and speedometer don’t fit completely anymore. Which speed sensor can I install instead of the standard 5-speed sensor to iron it out again? Just take the 6-speed transmission and is good? Or are there other solutions? Greetings Erinya

Hello, I’m looking for a nice mx5 na, but I’m not sure which engine fits best? What’s recommended?

A question, even if the MX 5 is undoubtedly built for cruising, why is the 131 hp with 197 given and the 116 hp with 195? It would have to run a little over 200, like 203 approx. or changes the CW value? The values were measured with closed cover and closed headlights or? for the extra power only 2 kmh is very strange, even if it doesn’t matter as I said, because you drive a little faster with it at most a few minutes and as a journey Speed 80-100 preferred

…unfortunately no food, but from time to time its cooling water. I realized my dream of the MX-5 NA about 2 weeks ago, after having already looked at a few NA’s: 1994 Mazda Miata NA with 1.8 engine (as good as dry). Strangely enough, the FL model has not yet really come true… So has the big engine and a driver’s airbag, but no passenger airbag and not the rounded fittings. Except for a few broken light bulbs and cosmetic traces of the last 24 years, the M azda in my opinion (still the inexperienced apprentice who has driven an aquarium sample) in generally very good condition for his money. At least a few of his previous owners seem to have sheared around his condition. Motor does not clack, rust really keeps within limits, the seats have been restocked with the original fabric and the roof is in good condition. To get to the point: I noticed that after about 15Km drive with the engine switched off a noise in the engine room, near the right headlight from the driver’s point of view, to be heard. Sounds like he was cooking or eating badly and stomach growls… So a blubbing sound. That the coolant is exactly in this area worries me a little. The temperature indicator I have always been looking closely at since when driving, since this is supposed to be so conceived that the tolerance range to the right is not so tolerant. Apart from the warm-up phase, which in my eyes is very but he always keeps his temperature where he should have it. Until once, where the pump went, he has not crossed this area yet. So when I get out, I often hear this cooking; but never a fan. Is the efficiency of the fan so high that given if the cooling water starts to cook, if it doesn’t run? The cooler, by the way, gets unbraked driving wind, so the mouth of the Miata is free of numbering chi In my research, I have often encountered words such as balance tank, thermostat, cooler lid, etc.. Now I wonder if I should order a new thermostat for 25€ and install it myself, or if I should buy a new fan and install it myself, or if I should change the cooling liquid completely and pay attention to the correct mixing ratio. Or if I should do everything (all the money I like to do in the repair of the kl Since I have already cracked the 400 words and want to spare you the 500, I would just like to thank you for every answer!! Have a nice weekend! (Images can’t be added now)