Category: Mazda MX-5, RX7 & RX8 Forum

Hi, I’m just about to swap the V-belt and the V-belt for the first time (for me, not for the car). I now have both belts off and wanted to pull the V-belt on it. However, I can’t get it over the disc on the alternator. It’s missing a little bit. I ordered it from I.L. Motorsport for the NA of course. Can it somehow be related to the fact that the belt was in the car overnight (below 0°)? EDIT: alternator and the tensioner is of course solved, otherwise I wouldn’t have got the old strap off either.

Moin together, we are looking for a MX5 NBFL and I have already read myself well and know mostly what comes to me. I try to get a sportive, mainly because of the 6th gear for the daily highway, but the market is so thin, I have to take what fits. In the area of Hamburg there are not too many and I still shy away from picking up one from further away and trusting the dealer or driving for free. The sleepers have to be taken into account with every NB, but with the longitudinal support it will be difficult to repair. Do you only look at mobile?

Hello together, after my last NA suffered a crack in the cylinder head due to overheating and I sold it to a mechanic, I decided to buy another MX-5 after finishing my training in almost 2 years. Of course, that didn’t work out. I just couldn’t wait. So I now have a MX-5 NA at home again, which is not driving. Only this time I learned to do this and did not sell my everyday car and am The Mazda is 1990 and first-hand and has run just under 150,000Km. For 10 years he has been logged out and the last year of it he was unfortunately outside. That the soft-tops are not 100% dense I noticed already with my previous NA, however with this now the footroom is damp. Normally even despite a only 99% dense vinyl-daches should not collect the water in the interior, right? My plan is, the Mazd next year for his 30th birthday to be presented to the TÜV and an expert for an H-mark and to be able to move from then on beautiful days. He will hopefully meet the technical requirements until then, but I would also like to have removed things like the damp footroom and hope that someone can tell me where the cause lies. I would be very grateful for any help!

Hi together, I got myself a 2011 NC, but after the purchase have to find out that he has such a few quirks, can you give me there a few tips how I can fix the best? Have little screwdriver experience, but would like to learn if it is possible. Do not have any tools yet. The exact model is a 2011 NC with 2.0 liter motor, 6 gear manual transmission and DVD radio with AUX, but without Bluetooth. The biggest problem is the climate that works though, smell The other problem is that the radio doesn’t have a reception, but speakers and all the buttons work. Would be very grateful for tips and maybe even instructions on how to fix the problems, was probably too hasty and too full of anticipation than I did the short test drive. Is there any other things I should check, or would you rather look for a workshop that might look for it? But it would be nice if there is one that is transparent and explains things instead of trying to get the maximum money out. Many greetings and thanks from a newcomer

Hi, everybody! I just wanted to pump up the spare wheel and, out of curiosity, took off the inner panel to check the car for rust. To my horror, I had to find out that water had been collected in the left trough (driver side, under plastic tub)! [Pictures 1-2] From the underbody: Images 3-4 The insulation under the spare wheel was already damp. Also on the rear panel were splashes [Picture 5]. I suspect, however, that the water in the left Mu The water is slightly oily. Almost odourless, just like the insulation mat. Upstairs everything looks very clean (antenna mechanics, fuel line, gasket of the boot lid still very soft). Downstairs in the area of the headlights looks flat – od it’s original? [picture 7] I poured a glass into the tank lid, flown clean. Should I leave the car in the rain to find out the source? Original photos there. Attached smaller here. I’m curious about your ideas. I didn’t find out about the SuFu PS: Vehicle is an Mx5 NBFL Bj 2001 First week in my possession

Servus people, Unfortunately I found nothing of the kind here in the forum and therefore I decided to open a thread. Next spring my thick phaetoch will go and be replaced by something small at the top without. Currently the SLK and Z4 is on the top of the list, but also the ND as a facelift is interesting. Of course the vehicles are not comparable, but I don’t want that either. I (and certainly some others) would be happy if people had their experiences. of course there are now many official reports on the internet and also here on MT, but experience from users is quite different from the reports from the press. A collection of experiences would certainly be nice for interested people.

Hello together, actually I have no idea of cars, but have great fun getting my Aygo on the road and also sometimes (too often) driving with squeaky tires around curves. I don’t often expect the consumption, but it was already at 9.3 liters. Then it can be something faster, heck-driven. I fell in love with the MX-5 some time ago and now have a car in view, which I could pick up on Sunday. Because of my missing W Data: MX-5 Miracle 2003 120tkm 120PS HU to 03.22 Price: 3700€ (has already been traded down from 4200€ and there will be no more room for manoeuvre) I have experienced the following telephone, the saleswoman seemed relatively honest and pointed out further shortcomings of herself: – 2nd hand, so a previous owner – Current driver was for 16 years mainly an old lady, d The reason for the sale is the age of the lady. – No accident damage known – The radio is included, that only always makes the lady out because of worry about theft. – Just leave out, slow down and should feel more stable at high speeds than at slow – Should have no oil consumption, motor should be dry – With the oil change, however, it was not seen so seriously, “main thing is enough inside”. Letz the oil change is no longer readable. She thinks, however, that this would not have been longer than 2-3 years ago. – The brackets from the hard top are rented, whereby I found on YouTube an inexpensive repair possibility Independent of the short distance and the oil change mentality I take care of rust-technically. With the sills was already made according to the seller something from the workshop. That something was done, you can also see on the pictures. Only it affects on the pictures just also s o, as if there were rust again there? According to the saleswoman, this is only flying rust. That was not painted at the places, would not bother me. To the unpainted places you said it was something that would feel like the wheel caps. I absolutely can not estimate what was done for a repair and how the current condition of the parts is. Next to the picture of the Schweller I insert screenshots from the inside of the wheel runs from videos that she sent me. Because of my lack of experience with cars, I don’t understand what I’m looking at and what this should look like… so excuse me if the pictures aren’t meaningful. Thank you for your support in advance.

Hey, with my Mazda mx-5 NC 2.0 L Niseko, the clutch pedal is always after this year when it gets hot, so it goes through empty until I can’t get in/out of gear at all. After a certain time without any action, the clutch goes again so that you can at least couple and the next day it’s normal again. I noticed this last time when I was standing in the traffic jam and could hardly drive on. Once you are in, it goes without coupling somewhat, abe r is a problem. The lower clutch cylinder has already been replaced..and since I have a grinding noise, if the clutch pedal is not kicked, which disappears as soon as I step in the clutch, I also read the back bearing (Bzw then the whole clutch, since already removed). The problem with the grinding noise still exists when the car is cold and today where it is again very hot, I realize that the other problem still exists. Before I try to share any more good luck, I wanted to ask you for advice, if any of you had the same problem? Greetings

Hello guys, looking for a cheap convertible I came across the MX 5. Yesterday I drove an NB, was good, even though with my 1.86 a little compact in sitting, but the 50 km were well feasible I would be interested as the experts here judge this offer:https://www.ebay-kleinanzeigen.de/…/996570192-216-8364?… Is it around the corner, the pictures and the description I like, the Km-Stand not so, even if that’s not so bad with the car sol l, right? Again for what I need the car: five times a week 50 km, especially highway from garage to garage plus a few weekend trips. The car should stop at least four years without major repairs (exclusive maintenance and small stuff of course), budget max 7,000. Thank you!

Hello dear community, I intend to add an NC soon (160 hp, hard top). Probably a pre-facelift model, because I don’t want to spend more than 8,000. I have read some threads and noted a lot of things. Some points are still not clear. Now I hope that you would be so kind, based on your extensive experience, to help me with the following questions. 1. I understand that models have (may) a motor problem before 2009. f the oil burning due to faulty thermostats. Correct? 2. Does the engine damage occur suddenly at 1 or are there signals that indicate this and enable counter-action? 3. Is there a mileage from which a purchase makes no sense? So I understood that the cars are indeed (apart from point 1) super reliable. If so it has to be a with 120,000km or can one take also equal with 200,000km? Thank you in advance and best regards