Category: Mazda MX-5, RX7 & RX8 Forum

A question to *all MX-5 owners*: My heart still beats for the small Japanese – light, large series technology, affordable. After the sale of my last car (no convertible) I had looked at a type NC (Bj. 2014) and had to realize that I did not fit in at first. I am not very large (1,81) and also not very heavy (hugging…94kg), but probably a seat giant. In the car (one with fabric cover) I sat completely with the head on the cover. Didn’t happen at all. Out of frustration I bought a Megane CC 😉 But the heart is still somehow still with the MX-5. A colleague has the type ND, however as Targa. So also there is a seat sample – not quite as bad as in the type NC, but still very borderline, especially in the area of the not existing headroom. I actually finished with the dream when I saw a 2018er (so type ND) with fabric cover, which I could not yet try out. And see because: it fits, up is even a piece of air. However, this has the optional Recaro seats, which for me were also very – erm – borderline narrow. Other type ND are not to be found here in the vicinity unfortunately ?? How are your experiences – can this with me and the MX-5 still be with a type ND with “normal” seats? I must admit, of course, that the whole rest is also very narrow cut. Yes, I know – Roadster halt. Whether I can deal with it permanently, I know naturally The Megane CC is, on the other hand, like a spaceship… Yes, a slightly larger model (SLK, Z4) would certainly be the better choice in the end. But quite honestly? The surcharge is simply not worth it to me… Thank you very much in advance!

Good morning together, I’ve been the proud owner of a 91er US-Miatas since this week and have a few general questions for the professionals among you – What tire size/light size do you drive and how does it affect the performance? My Miata currently has 185/50?/R15…but they are already 13 years old and have to be renewed accordingly. If I want to drive 195er or 205er now, does this have a negative effect on the driving characteristics? does it say “if necessary”? – Do your Miatas beep even if the ignition/motor is on and the doors are open? Mine has a small pen on both doors, if it is not pressed, it beeps terribly. No it is not the light Can you put that out somehow? – Are there any steering wheels (Momo, Sparco, etc.) MIT airbag for the Miata “Performance”? – What is the exact name of the hoses left of the throttle flap? Are these the “water hose throttle flap to the oil cooler” (Beze ilmotorsport)? I’ve read many articles about it with many different opinions, so I’m sorry if one or the other question has been asked before. Thank you very much.

Hello all, our NBFL is having problems on Monday. On Monday morning the car just didn’t want to start. After several attempts in the afternoon he jumped on. During a small ride he suddenly went out. I then checked and found that if he does not start, only a short spark arrives at the candles. OSB connected and error P1345 shown. Camshaft sensor. New bought and built in. First he jumped without any problems. But after The problem came back to several starters. Presumably the crankshaft sensor has a defect. I ordered a new one now. Must be there next week. Candles and ignition cables are ordered. (Can’t hurt). Cables are still the first. Built.2002 Kn140000. Now to my question: is there anything to consider with the crankshaft sensor installation? . Old screw off and new one and look at that the distance to the belt disc has 5-15 mm? Is there anything to consider? Best regards to the MX5 municipality

Hello all, I just bought a Mazda Mx5 nb. Before the sale completely new TÜV came up with it. I was with him and he examiner told me that the car is in a great condition. In the protocol he listed no defects, but the two hints: ” -ground group and axle body partly rusted – brake line at the rear left and right rusted ” After the test I was at a workshop to change oil. There was noticed that a brake was a bit firm. I had all the pads and the windows changed in the back. In addition, the seals were changed in the brake calipers. Afterwards the workshop manager approached me and said that the car is not traffic-proof overall and he would be very surprised how it had come through the TÜV a few days ago. I then contacted the branch manager in the corresponding Dekra branch, who told me that he also kei on the photos. In my opinion, the brake line is very rusty. Is this relevant for the TÜV and for my safety? As a file I also attach a video of the underbody. Thank you very much! Artur

Hello together. I’m just thinking of putting on a fun car (above open). At the moment I share a car with my wife. Sometimes a bit clumsy. I live in England and the used car market is clearly different here. The MX-5 is praised here again and again in highest tones when it comes to sportiness. Conceptually also logical. But now I don’t know myself at all. Optics of the different models is sniffy for me. What can you tell me about the e different models say? are there certain motors of which you prefer to leave your fingers behind? Are there possible types NA, type NB/NB-FL type NC. There are endless offers within a radius of 50 miles in the price range between 1k-5k. All this overwhelms me. Any need haves in equipment? Do the cover problems? What about the space conditions at 1.92m? Thanks already in advance.

I wanted to know what it’s like to install a turbo. But don’t use it in everyday life and when you’re on the race track you let it run with 1 bar or so do you have to use the tubro entries but no increase in performance?

Hello, I am currently 19 years old and I thought about what I want to get as a successor for my Peugeot 206CC with 109ps. Drive passionately convertible and then want to get me the Mazda MX-5 RF with 160ps in one year, would only interest me what there is to consider, also the maintenance would be important and what it looks like with spare parts if what should be good and not too expensive. Because have our cars tested all times and found our Ford Puma there really at Span I thought about getting the Mazda 3 before but I’d rather have a convertible. Would be nice to get some reports on the newer models.

Good evening together, the vehicle around which it is about has not run for 10 years. I bought it first hand and the previous owner signed it off 10 years ago and put it away. Supposedly it ran there still without problems. The engine is the original 1.6 from 1990 with 116 hp. Before the first start attempts we carried out an oil change and oil filter change and jammed a new battery. We also filled in new fuel (about 20 liters). e tank needle at under 0 stand, we had assumed that no old fuel is in the tank anymore, but it is now still under 0, so probably the float is defective (?). Then we tried to start it. The starter runs, the engine turns, but it doesn’t ignite. So we saw that an ignition spark is coming. Ignition spark is coming, so we tried with starter spray, and voilà! It runs. However, only as long as you spray. So the suspicion went on the Benzi npump. Today we have connected the contacts GND and F/P to the diagnostic connector in the engine room. One hears a crack (sounds like it comes out of the dashboard) and nothing more. At the petrol pump itself we measured that electricity is attached, so it is supplied with electricity. We have also solved the fuel line for the inlet in the engine compartment once, to see if fuel arrives, but it only drips out very easily. We also assume without expert knowledge that there is much more Since we do not have any expertise, we are now at the end with our Latin. How can we proceed further? Is the petrol pump definitely over? Can it lie on resinated fuel lines or a resinated filter? Or could the injection nozzles be resinated? Can it still pull the remnants of the 10 year old fuel? The car is in a small garage and we have only limited means available, but we are top of the list. motivated and want to have the good quickest possible on the road Thank you for any help in advance!! I hope that the small maybe even next year runs again and can be made TÜV-compatible

Hello dear forum, I decided to buy a MX-5 NB now. Have a par question about this. How do I recognize if the longitudinal beams are rusted through without screwing up something on the vehicle, as I would like to do this during the inspection. And what else should I consider when buying a MX-5 NB. Which motorization would you recommend with the NB? 1.6L or 1.9L My budget is only 500€ for the car. For this reason I would like one if it goes “Rost-free M X-5”, which I can then seal. And would also need advice where to look for such a car. Use Mobile and Autoscout24. MfG L1neR

Hello, our MX 5 Bj.2000 with the 1.6 liter engine no longer starts. It was not moved for 4 months now, before it ran perfectly. The battery is completely empty. Also bridge does not help. Where should I look first? Don’t know me by car. I am grateful for any advice. Greeting M.