Category: Mazda MX-5, RX7 & RX8 Forum

Hello since I have long been looking for a sporty car with low maintenance costs I have come across the MX 5. Whether maintenance costs in themselves (insurance, usage, tax) or repairability, everything seems to be given. Driving fun I think also comes up with the smaller engine. Now to my “headache”. Unfortunately the MX 5 seems to have enormous rust problems. When I hear that most fenders/swings are through and it sounds more like lotto to you without rust. I think it is realistic to calculate 1000€ for welding work with its own preparation. To this purchase price 2500-300€. What do you think? isn’t it so dramatic? Would also be interesting as the spare parts supply is, so price-wise. MFG

Hello, I have already driven a lot of cars in my life, but a Japanese wasn’t there yet. But why not even an MX 5 NC. There are still a lot of first-hand cars with the most different mileage levels. According to the descriptions one should still find a good object under 10,000 €. As I have read here in the various reports, however, is always a bit of caution. Although each car is driven differently, but which mileage should be avoided if you do not directly m It wants to start repairs? As with other vehicles, the question about the rust is always the main topic. What does it look like with an NC? Certainly there are typical weak points here as well. If I then buy a later hardtop, is it easy to mount or are not all breakpoints already provided in the base? Look forward to your feedback. Karlheinz

Hallö, I’ve been driving my NA for a good year now. Of course I’m totally thrilled and I’ll probably never give it back again;-) BUT: The problem is the gearbox… In the beginning everything was still wonderful, then it started to become “happy”. The gear change from the 1st to the 2nd gear and also slightly from the 2nd to the 3rd gear feels as if the gears from the gearbox did not “cramble” in each other. Then in March I drove to the friendly then the master with me a test drive and only meant “is everything completely normal, the circuit of the MX5 is now a bit crisp”! But well, he suggested to change the gear oil because with ́m new oil would run a little better. So in June the gear oil changed – and it also got a bit better but fact is that it just gets worse and worse over time! Meanwhile I switch from the 1st to idle and then carefully into the 2nd, besides the 1st gear goes quite hard (e.g. I hope you can help me! Apparently I’m probably the only one with this problem… MFG Stefan PS: Oh yes, I should mention that it’s worse in cold conditions. If I’m steamed over the highway for some time and the gearbox is really hot, the problem is practically gone! And to MX5: EZ.95 / 79000KM

My loved ones and I are thinking of buying a current MX-5 as a second car. We have a three-month-old son and since the car is not only to be used as a fun, but also as a everyday vehicle, we wonder how easy it is to handle child seats. Does the MX-5 have Isofix? Are there any differences between the Kinenbi and Recaro seats? Are there differences between the Roadster and the RF?

Moin municipality Something is always…. Wanted to start my mx Na Bj.97 tonight….but after a short jump, he immediately went out again and jumps again since then. Starter turns, but nothing is happening. He has a factory-side immobilizer in the key. Can this be defective? How does it even work? I parked the car three days ago and before it ran without problems, had power and a round idle. Now as I said, except orgeln Nothing. It’s under a carport, so it’s also relatively dry. Does anyone have a tip? Greetings Romanus

Hey guys, I’m unfortunately finished with my Latin. I’ve been a proud owner of a MX-5 of the 2nd generation for about a year and love it very much. However, with the age of course come some problems that you can always get solved in Google. Nevertheless, I have to create a topic now because unfortunately I find nothing to do with it. My little MX5 has always had start problems in damp weather, which fortunately solved by cleaning the throttle flap and a new petrol filter However, it runs the first 10 kilometers very rough and without any power. It also often starts rolling after 3-4 seconds. Spark plugs everything is new, so I thought that I would just do a compression test to put the problem on the pellet. Said done and problem recognized immediately. So if the engine warms up after 20 min or 30 min service life after longer driving, the cylinders have the following bar values: Cylinder 1: 6 Bar cylinder 2: 11 Bar cylinder 3: 12 Bar Cylinder 4: 10,5 Bar Now my first thought was piston rings on the 1 through however, if you measure it directly after the ride the values are very normal: Cylinder 1:11 Bar Cylinder 2:11 Bar Cylinder 3:12,1 Bar Cylinder 4:11,1 Bar So was measured once again with completely cold engine that stood overnight. There were the values so deep that it is a miracle that it still starts. All cylinders were at 4 Bar except the 1st this was at 2,5 Bar. I have also already tested a swallow OIL to tilt into the combustion chamber and thus the cylinder 1 comes to 8 bar with lukewarm engine. The others are unchanged. I guess it’s probably the piston rings, however, I’m surprised that the values are so perfect when it starts running for a while. Does anyone know what I can still do at this point without taking the engine apart? Every tip would be helpful and thank you in advance!

Hi, would like to get my first car and came across the Mazda MX 5. I have a budget of about 700€, but don’t have to be completely used up ;D. I am now standing between the NB (110ps, 2003, 100k kilometers, 450€) and the NC (128ps, 2006, 70k kilometers, 700€). Both vehicles have almost identical equipment, nothing special. I have not looked at both vehicles yet, with my question now both of good condition (no rust etc.) and new tuv. Would you put the extra money on the NC or does the NB have its advantages? I would use the car for daily use, but also for exits into the Odenwald. In addition, I ask myself the question whether the PS number is sufficient or if you prefer to buy the larger engines. I am not a racing driver now but the driving fun should not be too short I would be very happy about an answer. VG Felix

Tach colleagues, maybe you have an idea: Drive a 91 MX-5, which is eventually terribly overheated. Workshop tapped on cooler lids, because the cooler was empty and the collection tank was full. Ok, swap was the easiest exercise. Now, however, the engine was increasingly bluish, so the suspicion arose that the engine had just noticed one. From a reliable source I got a new old engine (including water pump) and had it installed. The subsequent joy was 10 Then maybe the thermostat! Mazda delivered promptly and the part was replaced. 5 km everything went well, then again the same problem. An expert typed on a clogged cooler. So cooler rinsed until the water was clear, filled up and 30 min. ventilated with stationary gas. Then 5 km drove and the temperature indicator marched straight to the right again. Now also the expert scratched his head. After ventilated, 5 km drove and… you guessed e The fan motor starts reliably and I think that everything has changed now except for the cooler. But if it was tight, the engine would also have to get hot when venting. Or do I make a mistake of thinking? Thanks already for your ideas!

We have an NC 1.8 built in 2006. Wants to make oil change now and am not sure which I should take. 5w30 or 5w50…. An acquaintance has a car accessories store and said the 5w50 would be too thick liquid…. Car is only driven in summer and my wife drives normally…. Thanks for your help….

Hello! The NC 2006 consumes 1L oil on 100km. Since the owner did not check oil, I found in Dec that exactly 3,0 liters of oil were missing and he drove around like this. Before 3000 km I looked oil and there was everything i.e. about 1L/100k. I then filled 3L oil. Until today then did not move. I changed the thermostat today and the throttle valve brightly cleaned with corresponding throttle valve cleaner. I also after the throttle valve Rich I then put a funnel into the balance tank and sealed the opening with bitumen and filled the funnel fully (to ventilate). The one tube connected to the eel is not supplied with cooling water due to the bitumen. So I then left you air bubbles out of the funnel for 3 minutes (of which there is a lot of Then I went into the car and held on to 2,000 and then later on to 3,000 15 seconds. I could still detect a lot of air bubbles. At 3,000 it suddenly made “blupp” the engine ran rounder, and suddenly all white smoke came from behind, which smelled burned. I then got out of the engine turned off and could detect two distinct oil carbon strips at both end pipes drained of the asphalt floor. At the same time, the cooling water in the direction is switched off. it sank, even to MIN, (before it was filled almost full to the funnel.) I have now filled up on Max. Oil level also. Do not dare to start me any more, since now more and more water could get into the combustion chamber.