Category: Mazda MX-5, RX7 & RX8 Forum

hello to everyone in the forum. have now the 2nd time that the cooler cooks. today replenished, ca. 30 km driven and again the hose skipped from the overflow tank and the sauce steams out. the fan runs. have installed an oil thermometer, encoder oil drain screw, showed so 100 degrees, normal for the current ambient temperature, so my experience values. what is the cause? mfG

Hello everybody, does any of you order this?https://www.ilmotorsport.de/en/7427 What do you think about it? Unfortunately, the (legal) TFL function is missing. Gruss, Sascha

Today I start with my small or how one also likes to see, large restoration project. I hope to get some tips or information from you and ask me not to write to me a thousand times that I should fight the cart etc. I have until now as one can see the lamps removed the fenders right and left and the bumper including impact absorbers. Next I will remove the rust the holes and weld everything nicely. I can get wings from an anni for 100 €. Are the fenders of this special model by chance the same color from my car? Therefore, for the specialists of you will photograph the identification number and set it here. I hope the topic will interest you and you will have fun with my restoration project.

Good morning together, I’m thinking about buying an Mx5 bj 2001 which doesn’t start. He just dropped 124,000. The seller probably said it’s the ZKD. Can it be? I read it should last longer… What possible damage could have occurred? Unfortunately, no information about compression, ignition spark or sprit.. What do I have to pay attention to during the visit? Would be grateful about a few tips from the professionals! Greetings Julian

Today I made my 99 NB winterproof and found out that both longitudinal beams have rust in the front area. Although it was completely hollow-space-conserved with a certificate nine years ago and was allegedly treated with fluid film every year. Had an experienced mechanic with him, who also has experience in body construction. He meant generously cut out, stable sheet metal pure, paint and then properly seal. Of course before the carrier flood properly, who his time calculation six hours +-2 hours. Is this realistic and TÜV technically permissible at all? So that it doesn’t rust any further over the winter, I treated it properly from inside and outside with fluid film and it is now in the dry garage. Thanks for your assessment! PS: what I don’t understand is, he clapped neatly on it with a hammer and a grain, but he couldn’t get through. Why is that? Actually, inside is already through If it’s not even visible on the outside…

Hello. I drive a 1992 na. For the first time I should mention, during the head seal change the cylinder head was 2/10 mm planed. In addition, I set the zzp to 14° v.ot. Below it did not pull soo well and from 6,500 rpm ging the needle no longer so fast, so became a bit sluggish. Consumption was 8.2 l with super. 50/50 sporty and sprite saving. I have today put super Plus and you can say what you want it to go off now!!! He had not knocked because of the hö He always had a jerk at low revolutions at full load, which I push on the old spark plugs. (Come on again). I will calculate the consumption with super plus at the next time. Do you have any experience with it? Maybe someone who has changed the zzp and or compaction himself. Do you think the consumption could be less? Something? So with MIR with my engine settings it definitely brings real performance and not just imaginary, e r is better at all speeds both below and above. Achja . End silencer is self-made with less congestion pressure. Short secondary question: if I have a roll and a consumer in idle mode as well as e.g. the ventilation it jerks. Without a consumer it runs round. What can that be? Evtl sharp camshafts from the previous owner??? Thank you very much for your answer!!!

I have a 93 CAN Miata, which originally had a 1.6 engine and got a 1.8 NA BP engine a few years ago. This was done and registered by the previous owner. The engine runs well, has a good cold start and drives and pulls well. What I am looking for in this thread is actually the warm start, or a line in the engine room, which in my opinion is the Pr If I drive with the original air filter box (currently open filter), a hose (see pictures) is inserted into the air filter box after air filter (directly above the air filter plate). I tracked the line once, it comes from the passenger side and starts from a metal pipe. In addition, it smells like sprite more often when the car is standing after the ride. If I then want to start, it will drain without gas. Therefore, my guess that it has a fuel vent The point is that the problem with the bad start does not occur when I drive the open filter. The line is then open in the engine compartment directly from the open filter fixed, so that an almost same system prevails, like me original box. Maybe you have an idea or can tell me whether this hose goes into the air filter box with you or not and what it can be Thank you in advance, excuse the long text. Have a nice evening!

We are looking for winter bikes for the MX5 ND of my sister. It is the version with the 2.0L 118 kW engine. As summer tyres 205/45 R17 are mounted. Which tyre and rim size can be mounted for winter bikes? Smooth size or smaller rim diameters would be desirable to keep costs within limits if possible. Zus atzfrage, what does the MX5 ND have for a tire pressure control system? Is this possible via the ABS sensors or is the expensive system used with pressure sensors? Thank you for your help.

Hello together, I bought myself a MX 5 NB two years ago, but was not there for a year now, so he was mottled a year ago. He had a little rust before that, but now it has become a lot worse with the rust, both on the underbody and on the sides. So now I need a new TÜV, the first question is how strict is the TÜV with rust and if I don’t get the badge, how expensive it will be to have rust removed so far that the TÜV is lucky I know that it is hard to say without seeing it but only as a guideline, it also seems to have caught a little carrying parts, or does that quickly exceed the car value? And another question, I have reserved my old license plate and also picked it up again, but of course the registration stamp and TÜV are missing. I have the necessary insurance documents for the drive to the TÜV, can I just drive with it to the workshop so that they look at the rust or g Don’t you? Thank you very much for your help.

I wanted to ask if the MX-5 NC is still a worthwhile car or if it has already weakened many due to its old one I am especially concerned about the model before 2010 because my budget is very limited. Important to me is this: 1. The engine is reliable 2. I don’t have to fight with rust permanently 3. He must also be able to carry middle purchases from time to time (food etc.). 4. I am also interested in if the MX becomes my everyday car I should prefer to choose the hardtop or the softtop ? Mfg Lucas