Category: MINI Forum

  • Suddenly *place* and now white smoke

    Hello! The NC 2006 consumes 1L oil on 100km. Since the owner did not check oil, I found in Dec that exactly 3,0 liters of oil were missing and he drove around like this. Before 3000 km I looked oil and there was everything i.e. about 1L/100k. I then filled 3L oil. Until today then did not move. I changed the thermostat today and the throttle valve brightly cleaned with corresponding throttle valve cleaner. I also after the throttle valve Rich I then put a funnel into the balance tank and sealed the opening with bitumen and filled the funnel fully (to ventilate). The one tube connected to the eel is not supplied with cooling water due to the bitumen. So I then left you air bubbles out of the funnel for 3 minutes (of which there is a lot of Then I went into the car and held on to 2,000 and then later on to 3,000 15 seconds. I could still detect a lot of air bubbles. At 3,000 it suddenly made “blupp” the engine ran rounder, and suddenly all white smoke came from behind, which smelled burned. I then got out of the engine turned off and could detect two distinct oil carbon strips at both end pipes drained of the asphalt floor. At the same time, the cooling water in the direction is switched off. it sank, even to MIN, (before it was filled almost full to the funnel.) I have now filled up on Max. Oil level also. Do not dare to start me any more, since now more and more water could get into the combustion chamber.

  • MX5 NB Change the top, which manufacturer and what needs to be considered

    Hello, my NB still has his first hat and after 22 years he should get a new one. It is important to me with the new cover that the quality is right and it looks nice. I have set for me the following points: 1. fabric cover, because: In my opinion looks better and moreover it is not as stiff as a vinyl cover at low temperatures. The greater stain sensitivity does not bother me (garage). 2. heatable glass disc: Have the experience that the I would like to see through the window something that is limited to the determination of whether it is bright or dark outside after a short time. 3. Rain channels above the door windows worked out so that the water does not drip into the seat when the door opens. As a brand, I have taken Sonnenland into account. Has anyone had any experience with it? Are there more well-known manufacturers, which you can recommend? Would you do the change yourself? I am in Hamburg, does any of you know a good contact person for this? I look forward to your suggestions & discussion Greeting

  • NC 1.8 liters engine damage no wonder

    Hello I still can’t believe what Mazda is building for engines. The engine damage will come it’s just a question when. It’s just a matter of time when the oil charcoal will fry the rings and they won’t be able to do their job anymore. The result is an oil eat until there’s nothing left and the pleul bearings no longer have oil and eat, the engine is clattering, engine damage. Just because of a few small holes under the oil bases that derive the oil, what did they think about it??? V On the control chain or better “Kettle” and other components I don’t want to start at all. But I know that Mazda is designed with the MPS models “stable”, so I can only say put money on the side for a change of the chain. Now I’m looking forward to the ND, what is offered to one here for his money, because the press is bought anyway you can feel their schmarn right down the toilet. Greetings

  • 190cm human in MX-5?

    Dear MX5 driver, I have a central question, I hope you can help me. Does a 190cm longer person fit in the MX-5? So that he can still breathe and move? No, fun aside, someone experience as a bigger driver? I find the car quite interesting, but wonder if I could be happy with it.

  • Mazda 6 Kombi next car – what do I have to consider on the used car market?

    Hello together, so – my Zafira just blesses the temporal, a “new” used one has to come. Basic requirements: – Diesel and the huge dog box must fit in the trunk – in price there is not much since I got stuck in my search at the Mazda 6 (about 2004-2006), there is already under 2500, – with under 200,000 km. So from the principle I find the great, cockpit fits, in this blue metallic (?) (please don’t hit, I really didn’t hit so a lot of idea of cars and had the last years always 15-20 years old Opel) and black I find it really great. So from the outside. Test drive so far did not go because of plaster arm. Of the ads I have seen so far, I would now have the feeling that I would get the same money, which I would have to lay for a 01/02 Zafira with green badge, a more valuable car. What I also found “out” is that the Mazda 6 has probably quite a topic with rust. At the doors, below n on the sides and underbody (?). Can this be done yourself, if a used rust has points, and if so how? Spatula mass and varnish? And if so, to what degree rust? Then I have encountered relatively often advertisements with “motor damage” and “control chain torn”. Does this really happen so often or can one somehow avoid that? Is there anything to consider? So if I look at a used one, what do I have to pay attention to? What is important? Would make sense, w or what do I notice during a test drive that the control chain is already not good? And what do I notice that xyz is wrong and what would be “normal” for this car? He will certainly drive differently than a 17-year-old Opel Zafira. I would be happy if you could give me some tips. Thanks already!

  • Gasoline robust and reliable: Mazda6 or Opel Insignia

    Hi @, I started to look for myself, but I quickly realized that this is very tough, because I really have 0 experience with petrol and the brands mentioned in the title (had so far only VW diesel, manual gearboxes). So far I have only driven motorway so about 20-30 tkm p.a., but soon so many things change for me and I will drive much less (not every day and then rather city or sometimes travel somewhere), therefore and because of diesel scandal and possible consequences I would go to Be nziner change. I am a cozy driver, was so far with about 140 hp absolutely satisfied, but what is absolutely important to me is that the cars are robust and reliable and have high comfort. In general I also see that I do not buy models that still have childhood diseases, so if it goes at least 2 – 4 years after model introduction etc. I would buy a car Built. approx. 2014, automatic. What would you say Insignia or Mazda6 would be less susceptible to general Probl eme, rust, automatic transmission problems, childhood diseases or other problems? What about driving comfort etc? If one or the other brand, which motorization and what would be the advantages? I will probably have to make the same request in the Insignia forum.

  • Problem with door locking, interior lighting, turn signal

    Hello! I have a Mazda 6 Kombi Bj 2006, which unfortunately had to winter outdoors. Yesterday evening the alarm system (Hupe) went off without any outside action. The battery was quite at the end and the symbol for “open door” lit. Car could be started, and the battery seems to be OK again, but the turn signal no longer works, and all doors except the driver’s door are locked. In addition, the remote control no longer works, and the interior lighting goes n If you open the driver’s door, the other doors, including the tailgate, can’t be opened from the outside or from the inside. Does anyone have any idea where the fault might be? The car is now in the garage. Thank you in advance! Anna

  • Carav 11-106 Radio blind

    Good evening. I bought a radio blind from Carav for my Mazda 6 (BJ. 2004). Today I installed the aperture and with the plugs everything was clear, except for one. I have it left because it fits only to the aperture and nowhere on the Mazda. Now the buttons of the aperture do not work and also the on-board computer does not want any more. Does any of you have experience with the aperture and can send me a manual for the plugs? With the dealer I have telephoned but d he could not help me, because he has no idea and he allegedly does not have a guide himself. Thank you for the help in advance.

  • Experiences on the GJ automatic

    We are looking for a new mobile kit and the Mazda 6 has also made it into the circle of the chosen ones. The design of the station wagon is exactly mine and then also in the red from the advertising… I find awesome. The 150 hp diesel or the 165 hp petroler would be in question. Both as automatic. Our Fahprofile looks like this: Ca 18tkm a year, under the week 70% city, at the weekend highway with 50 to 100km long stages. If you look around like this, j a almost only positive. Only with the brakes and with the particle filters there are probably problems. Can someone say more about the 2 topics? I would also like to know which of the two aggregates fits better with the automatic. Is the automatic at all recommended? The Mazda salesman said that the transmission would be the fleshy dream of every automatic fetishist (well, that’s not how he expressed himself, but let’s say he was quite impressed with the automatic). Intended by a double clutch transmission and a automatic converter and would be absolutely free of friction even when starting up and speeding up strongly. Hope you can help me further. Until then, Erkan

  • Mazda 6 Rugging at Acceleration

    Hello together, I bought a Mazda 6, 2,3L, Kombi Bj. 2003 a few weeks ago. He has about 75,000 km down. Unfortunately I have a problem. If I am acceleration and in a range from 1500 to 2000 revolutions, then he is jerking. It is rather a soft jerking and especially noticeable when driving up the mountain. In cold condition it is much stronger than in warm. Even after a longer motorway ride he has jerked. Had it now already the third time in the workshop. First of all, it is much stronger than in warm. After the diagnosis examination they thought it would lie on an ignition cable and replaced it. Without success. The second time the ignition coil was replaced and the lamda probe was checked. Also without success. And the third time they installed new spark plugs and a new air volume meter. And of course also without success. Now when I picked up my Mazda last week, I got to hear from the workshop that they did not carry out further investigations and work on the F and that they allegedly telephoned with Mazda and that this jerking is quite normal for this series! Can someone help me further what that could be. Because I can’t imagine something like that at Mazda! Thanks already!