Good afternoon, I drive a Mazda 323 BG with 1.6 8V (B6-E). Unfortunately I have since bought the car strong vibrations in the interior, as soon as the vehicle is at operating temperature / idle speed (approx.800U/min). It has been so extreme that I have temporarily increased the idling speed a bit, because if you give some gas to approx. 1000-1100 RPM the vibrations are actually completely gone or not to feel any more. Due to many forum reports and the fact that my 323 also at I now had all four engine/gear bearing replaced. Especially the bumping felt as if the engine was tilting back and forth. It was a good decision, because the rear bearing was definitely defective and the others also didn’t look very nice anymore. This tilting now seems to have disappeared, but unfortunately not the real problem, which bothers me much more – n The vibrations. These have remained almost unchanged.. Now my question would be, what else could this be? The engine runs absolutely round for my feeling, turns up nice and does not cause any problems. Every now and then I mean to see that the speed is going up and down a bit (only minimal), but that may be because I have adjusted the idling a bit (could of course be undone at any time, but the vibrations would be I have now read that the ignition setting or time of ignition could also be considered for such a thing. But can this cause so strong vibrations without having strong rotational fluctuations or false ignitions? Especially since the current AU test is absolutely inconspicuous. Only with the “actual value” of the ignition time nothing is entered, only the “toll value” of 7 +/-1 degrees v.OT. With the rest there is everywhere. Otherwise there would be possibly still wrong air, whereby I auc h here would rather introduce strong speed fluctuations as a companion. I unfortunately don’t know any more, but I absolutely have to get that away, because it is so simply not fun to drive the Mazda. MfG
Category: MINI Forum
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Mazda 3 BN – unusual wear Michelin tires (initial equipment)
Hello, I drive a Mazda 3 BN Stafenheck Sportsline, EZ 08/2017 (KM-Stand 32,000km, driving behaviour 80% city / 20% overland + highway, defensive/economic driving style). As summer tyres I still ride the first equipment (Michelin Pilot Sport 3, produced in KW51/2016). Less the time on winter tyres I have driven with these tires so far about 20,000km. With horror I found today that the tyres on the front axle unusually strong wear signs (flat porous) have – left even more massive than right and at different rotation positions of the tires. I knew this so far only from 10 years old tractor tyres:-) It shocked me particularly, because I neither massively braked nor accelerated with the vehicle; also I can exclude 99%, that I have driven by shards or the like. Can you give me an assessment, if necessary, to how far the “normal” is or what could be the cause? In my opinion, the The vehicle is only a few weeks out of the warranty – would it be worth it from your point of view to make an attempt to get in touch with the Mazda dealer and to ask for a warranty against the background of material defects? Thank you in advance & LG Stefan
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Mazda 3 experiences? – Model from 2019
Dear MotorTalk Community, I am very interested in the current Mazda 3 (4th generation). To be more precise, I am planning to finance a Mazda 3 as diesel and as automatic – built in December 2019. Now I have looked at pretty much all the reviews (both in German and English) that exist. Up to now everyone from Mazda 3. However, I have recently come up with the idea to look around for problems with the car (on YouTube). Customers from the USA seem to have an incredible amount of problems. It starts with problems with vibrations and clapping in the doors and stops with non-functioning assistance systems, which threaten to fail even in light snowfall. Since there are only a few videos and I am aware that it is of probably 10,000 customers only 10 who have problems, I thought it was half as wild. However, in the comments there were all the more customers who shared the frustration and allegedly the gleic Among the comments, there were customers from the UK who had no such problems. Are the Mazda 3 built elsewhere for the North American market? And if so, why do these customers have so many problems? I now appeal to all the members who drive a Mazda 3 of the 4th generation here in Germany. Do you also have such problems? Should the Mazda 3 be avoided better? Is the car reliable, or is it only a permanent vehicle? uftrag for the workshop? Would you buy the car again, or should I leave my fingers off it? I am really insecure and need your advice urgently. Thank you very much.
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Problems with belt strapper
Hello first of all, I am actually more the Opel driver, but now I have a Mazda 3 1.6 liter year 2005 in my hands. It is really nice, but has the problem that the airbag light is on. Read out: belt strapper driver seat resistance too large. Now I would like to expand the seat to be able to look at the cables and plugs. I realize that only the battery has to be disconnected and waited a few minutes before I have to hit any cables or plugs. mmel. But it would be important to me to know how to remove the seat, so whether and how I have to remove which covers or screws. I don’t have a workshop book. Then I can see if there are obvious damage to the cables or plugs and clean all the contacts to see if this will help. Would be nice if you could give me a guide or even pictures. I found nothing right in the search. Thanks Andi
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NB and illumination durability
Moin, from NB and the voltage regulator installed in the control unit, is in operation (turning LiMa) a quite high voltage in the on-board network (with me measured at the ODBII port up to 15V). Can one assume that therefore, especially the main headlights (HB4 with me) have a very shortened lifetime? At least for my taste exactly these bulbs clearly break too often. With my current MX-5 (NBFL) it is already almost two complete sets that I have through . With the predecessor (NB with H4) I had at least only needed one set per year, which is also quite short-lived. If so, what can you do about it? Put voltage regulators in front of the bulbs or something? Greetings Erinya
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Cooling circuit
Moin first of all, I am the new one. Shortly before 50, at the corner of Hamburg and for about 4 months proud owner of a 98 NB, 1.6 l. Nice fun car, but just makes me a little bit of a headache. Short story: Monday morning some V-belt squeaking, short gas shock, squeaking away. Nothing at all thought, weather here passed from Frost to “wet warm”. Wednesday there were again V-belt squeaking after about 5 km while driving. Then I noticed that I had no heating. About 1 km further came d The first thoughts were the unpleasant smell, hot cooling water or hot technology. At the traffic lights the temperature went up quickly and I then saved myself 300 m further into a parking lot. With running engine nothing more noticed, after the parking immediately smoke came out of the radiator grill. At the moment a lot of work and always came by the car only in the dark, today it fit times and times made a short check. V-belt squeaks immediately. Already after approx. 5 seconds again smoke formation. Neither in the cooler nor in the balance tank is water to be seen. I find in the net unfortunately no documentary or similar, contributions with similar problems always shoot hair-sharply past my questions or are for another motor… Meaningful: Thermostat replaces fixed, only 2 screws. Zack, end. The questions are: Where is the thermostat sitting? Where is the water pump sitting? Are there known weak points with leaks in the cooling circuit? When I fill the cooling water only with water and then switch, there is a coolant that the engine doesn’t like at all? Let’s do it 😉 Greeting Uwe
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Can you fit with 1.91m in a Mx5? (All models)
Hi, I “dream” about which car I could buy in a few years. A 2-seater roadster has always been my dream. “Unfortunately” I am 1.91m tall and has to put the seat in the lowest position in my Mazda 3 Bj 2007 and still has to bend to see the traffic lights. I always say I need an SUV but I WILL simply no SUV. The MX5 looks quite small, smaller than the 3rd one, you think that would be something for me? Did I also s The NC is supposed to be the biggest of all, the ND even smaller, NB can be completely forgotten. If not, an idea what else could be considered? Besides the Mx5 I only know BMW Z3/4, but they are also used quite expensive.
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Mazda MX-5 clutch jerks
Hello, as a second car I have a Mazda MX-5 NB 1.6. Year 2001 and KM approx. 80.000. For a few weeks I feel it is always more difficult to drive the car in the second gear and couple it in without the car jerking or hopping a bit. That is, it is very difficult to find a point at the coupling and give gas, where the car rolls in liquid without jerking. My observation is that it is easier with a slight climb. he has Mazda workshop checked and since I have relatively little technical know-how and you run the risk of being dragged over the table, I ask carefully what the reasons might be. Fear that there are quite a lot of sources of error for this, but maybe you have a tip on what cost-effective measures you could start with before you venture into the more expensive things. Thank you in advance and greeting, cause’n’effect
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MX5 NB still as a dayli driver today?
Hello together, I’m thinking about adding an Mx5 as a second car. Budget is 4000, max. 5000 euro. I drive 34 km every day back and forth. 90% highway, but here max. 120-130 provided I find a well preserved in the segment, can I use it, if appropriate maintenance of course, as a daily all-rounder ? Winter festival should be yes. or is a longer-term use with the age (14-16 years) rather not to be expected ? I tend rather to 1.8, verbr However, I think that the 1.6 would be better in terms of technology and also in terms of maintenance.
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Find a MX-5 (budget is 5k)
Hello, I’m just reading all the topics and purchase advice, but would like to make a request in advance. My little one will be 18 next month and I promised her a car. I had bought a 323F BG myself as a student and then driven it for 22 years (a great car). The MX-5 was unfortunately too expensive at that time, he also came out fresh. Well, now it’s too late and with this purchase it would be at least certain that Paps would like to get around the car of the little T ochter will take care 😉 The budget is 5k. I really like the NB best and there should be something for the money. So if someone has something, someone knows, etc: MX-5 NB FL black (or dark), ideally with hardtop, climate, leather would be nice running performance is not so important to me, rather a well-kept condition. Traceable history, made sills and stainless longitudinal beams. Am a friend of firsthand cars with original purchase documents. Many greetings mbmt