Category: MINI Forum

Hello, since a few days I have “loudness fluctuations” in the playback of radio stations. As soon as the car is half warm, the speakers get off irregularly left or right or center ;-(( When playing via Bluetooth – no problem. Does anyone know any reason? Greeting Heiko ps – the airbag lamp lights: 1x pause 2x pause and the whole thing then in continuous loop ;-(((

Hello all, I switched from my old Mondeo tournament last autumn to a Mazda 6 station wagon from 2015. He drives very pleasantly, but there is one thing that makes me stumble: If I want to go to work at the currently reasonably relaxed cold temperatures (morning +- 3 degrees around the freezing point), then I hardly get the disc free. Maybe I’m a little spoiled by my old man, but then I have the climate automatic in cold condition. I commute daily from Krefeld to Dinslaken, which is almost 45km or 35 minutes. When I arrive, the corner areas of the windscreen are still not free. Is this normal with the model? Or is there something wrong? That’s really annoying, because you always have to give away plenty of time in the morning until you start driving safely at all. ann. I get in, turn the temperature to 27° (it’s also in the logbook), then I activate the “front disc free” button. AC is on, have also changed between fresh air and circulating air test times, but that doesn’t make any difference. It gets loud and you hear that the fan is working, but it doesn’t really do much. I usually also have the rear disc heating and possibly the popo heating on, however, so the engine should be warm at most faster we rden. I still have new car warranty, so I would be happy if you let me know what that looks like for you. I mean exactly the 2015 model, maybe that’s fixed with the newer ones. Thank you!

Hello to all, I’ve had the following problem for a long time and it’s been unsolved so far, maybe someone here knows something: The on-board computer of my Mazda 3 (2009) no longer shows the calculations for average consumption and speed etc. as well as the outside temperature. However, the display works. Only strokes instead of the values are displayed. Worse, however, is that the air conditioning does not work anymore. If it is short-circuited, everything works, only in normal working conditions. The on-board computer doesn’t work quite exactly on the day when the “inspection counter” was set to 0, if I remember correctly. I wonder if this could have something to do with the car not knowing the outside temperature anymore? So the failure of the climate is a consequence of the problem with the on-board computer? (Unfortunately technical lay) The Mazda workshops, in which I have been so far, have the problem so far only As described in this way, however, the car wanted to hang on to the analyzer for up to 3 hours, which could result in costs of up to 500 € – that was only too expensive for me for the analysis of a then possibly minor problem. Is there any way to find this problem with your own analyzer and app (forscan etc.)? At Mazda it seems to be quite difficult to find a suitable device… Do you have any other idea? Maybe a cable, a fuse (with which I have already done this before). z check, but who knows) or the temperature sensor (but wouldn’t explain the failure of the BC)? Does your experience tell you that it may be related or rather excludes it? Thank you for every advice, I’m really desperate and my trust in the workshops, which partly wanted to replace the working compressor (1000€ upwards) is severely damaged. Best regards!

I got a Navi card for the Mazda 3 BM/BN a while ago. It also worked perfectly – until trying to update it with the Mazda toolbox. Backup SD card –> clear Download new update Install update to SD card –> breaks off at 97% Since then the Mazda doesn’t recognize the card anymore. Think – no problem, have created a backup before. But unfortunately you can’t play back the backup – always server error or whatever. I even have it on multiple devices try, no chance. So either I’m waiting for the next update so that the program will re-describe my SD card or you know a way I can play my backup again. BTW’s SD card diagnosis in the Mazda Toolbox says that everything is okay with the card and there are no updates. I’ve never had to use such a bad software before… I don’t recommend doing any update to everyone 😉

Hello together, my Mazda 3 BK (10/2006) pulls the battery empty in the stand. A rest current of about 170-200mA flows. Normal values are apparently around 20-30mA. I measured these values by hanging a multimeter between mass cable and minus pole, closing the car and waiting for about 10 minutes. I think that should have fallen asleep with all control units and sensors. To limit the consumer, I pulled all fuses. Only in the passenger compartment, where there are about Then in the engine compartment, where nothing happened. Only when I took out the bolted fuse 3 (“BTN”, “To protect different circuits”, the current fell to 0. I still don’t really know what it will secure. I then looked at the fuse box in the passenger compartment (Passenger Junction Box / PJB) and just pulled plugs. If I pull the big green plug (J-01), I was able to get the plug in. The measured current is also set to 0. This makes sense so far that it probably supplies the power supply for the board, and so that everything from it is controlled. If I only pull the blue plug (J-03), the value falls to approx. 80mA. Pulling all other plugs does not change the measurement. In other words, with only J-01 and J-03 connected I still measure 170-200mA. Even if all fuses are pulled on the PJB itself. I attach a PDF with the occupancy/wiring, the vo The car has no warning lights and I have not noticed any problems. The error memory is empty. My considerations/questions: I find it funny that I still measure 80mA with connected J-01. If I look at the pin assignment, only voltages arrive via the plug, but Ground comes only with J-03. But it is not connected. Should the PJB not be completely off and I don’t have any power at all. Because the current drops to 0, if I separate J-01, I can actually exclude everything that is not controlled by the PJB, can I? What can I test now? Can I narrow it down somehow? Thank you very much.

Hello, after I passed my driver’s license last year, I am looking for a suitable first car. I came across the Mazda 3 because it should have a good price-line ratio and also looks good I came across these sales and would like to hear your opinion about it. Are they too expensive? Do they have too many vulnerabilities? Other suggestions? Thank you in advance.https://www.autoscout24.de/…/…2a46-8be8-4c82-a2e7-136950da93ed?…https://www.autoscout24.de/…b3 63-08ba-4730-96a8-6ec28374e882?…https://www.autoscout24.de/…/…44d0-7282-4c38-a14f-096626f68838?…https://www.autoscout24.de/…/…62dd-a316-4da0-93cf-12e73f4bb201?…

Hello, it’s about the following problem child of my girlfriend: Mazda 3BP Skyactive G122 with EZ 6/2020. About 2 weeks ago she cleaned the car and ran the radio (Bose Soundsystem) beside about 45min. After that we wanted to go away and the little one could not start again, battery under 12V. Bridged, driven a bigger lap, then 2 days the battery charged, was at the end again full, acid measurement value as well as voltage as new. Until yesterday no problems, car is / was every day about 60km then the car went yesterday because of a parking damage to a paint shop, today the call, he did not get started, had to be bridged and he showed an error message. (Photo of the message was taken, I get tomorrow when the car is fetched again) Is there a Mazda mechanic here and is something known about it? Cann’t it be that the battery is dead during a daily long distance after not even 3 years? Time Mazda Kulant and maybe there’s a new battery or Is he already too “old” for that? Thanks already in advance

The car is a three-way fastback with X-motor from 2019 and now 55000 km. A new battery came into the car some time ago. Listening to music without a running engine doesn’t work anymore. Then it started with the error. However, the battery display showed an error. So update played up. After two weeks nothing went on again. The same game a few more times, without success. This time the display shows a Mazda is in the end with his Latin. Now it should be on dirty injection nozzles. Thursday the nozzles are removed and cleaned. I am not enthusiastic about it. The engine runs so well. Whether cold or warm, no jerking, nothing eye-catching. Can’t really be. Normally I don’t really need i-stop. Should also be TÜV-relevant. And what’s supposed to work. Someone already There was nothing to be found in the net. Greetings of the Mazda Peddah