Category: MINI Forum

Hello everybody. On my 6-series (BJ 2003, CD 2,0L 136PS) the big inspection is about to take place (120.000km). Does anyone know exactly what needs to be done? Timing belt change is clear. What about the water pump and the timing belt tensioner? Are there other parts that will be checked or replaced? Oh yes, what does the inspection cost for the friendly one? Thank you in advance. BG _TM_

Hello, After the Mazda 6 did not have any problems so far, I get back to you. Why ? Exactly one day before my holiday last week the engine said goodbye with a loud clapping. Mazda said that I should come to the workshop, they would look at it. On the way there exactly 20 meters before the car dealership nothing went out. Engine and does not want to start anymore. What happened ? After the workshop looked closer the car (there was too much oil in the oil tank , large metal chips were also included, and the engine made tilt motions of perhaps 6-7 cm) the engine was removed and disassembled this week. Originally they hoped for a skipping of the steering belt. Conclusion: bearing damage on the 4th cylinder. Cause unknown. Presumably the injection valve did not work correctly and pushed diesel into the oil. Except minimally increased diesel consumption (did not affect at these low temperatures) and finally a funny clacking Now the Mazda 6 gets a new engine on guarantee (previous mileage: almost 37,000 km). On holiday it went with a Mazda 5, which was provided by the car dealership free of charge and which I now keep until the end of the repair. The workshop affirmed that it had not yet seen such a thing … Greeting Alfred

Hello, I have a Mazda 626 GW/GW 2.0 turbodiesel (74 kW/101hp), mileage now 235tkm. The last 2 winters and this year the engine pushed very hard after cold nights in the morning and hardly assumed any gas, after 1-2 km drive everything was ok again. If I understood it straight, this is probably due to a defective quantity control valve in the ESP. In the course of October and early November we had however already some nights with frost (must scratch disks), after d If it’s the winter diesel: Is there also a winter diesel with Ultimate Diesel, V-Power Diesel & Co or is there a winter diesel with the same “substance” all year round?

Hello everyone. My father is the first owner to drive a Mazda 626 GE FH, 1,9l 90PS petrol, year 95 with 250 tkm. He has recently run the problem that when the engine was speeding up the engine, it was irregularly jerking, igniting or swallowing. On the troubleshooting I noticed that the distributor finger and the contacts on the distributor cover were quite worn out, so we made it new. We also renewed the spark plugs, because they were blacked out… of course h we have installed NGK spark plugs again, because the engines have problems with the others of e.g. Bosch. However, with both no success. I have a colleague who works at Mazda, so I am to the workshop and this one has isolated the contact insulation of the spark plugs of the ignition cables, because, as he said, because the spark does not jump to the spark plug, but to the engine block… however, this was also not the fault. I don’t know any more… Do you have any experience with this problem??? Does anyone know a solution??? I thank you in advance…

I used to ask a question about a heater from webasto, and today I had for the first time a problem with it, I set the heater as always at 5 o’clock, drive at 5.30 o’clock to work, so when I was at the car was the car warm, but the car did not jump, because the battery was too weak, did not do anything, has turned only very weak the starter, the clock from the heater has seen everything at 0, well I’m dan with my father’s car to work drive, after which was back home the car jumped on again, I drove around a bit afterwards I went to a free workshop which tested the akku, and told me that this would be still in order, I should put the heater next time on 15min who the dan again left the akku empty should I install a bigger one, what do you say to it??? I mean up to now this had always worked, ok this morning was also a bit colder as usual, how long do you leave the your stan heating so run??? ps. is still the first battery inside.

Hello everybody, I’m starting to despair. Drive a Mazda 6 BJ 2003 Diesel 136 HP. For several months I’ve had the problem that the engine (also on the highway) simply runs out. I couldn’t actually notice a power loss of the engine. When starting it sometimes happens that it is a bit jerking and not running round after a few km that settles again. Last week it came to the first time I needed about 30 min before the engine started. obleme already had? The workshop can’t help me at all and requires 25 euros each time for error reading. Thank you for your help.

You love, I have great hope that you can help me. I drive a Mazda 6 GG1 2L 108 KW Bj. 2008 It was converted at Mazda factory with the Autogasanlage of Teleflex GFI. It is 2 years old and has 164 TKM. The first of the 4 gas lines conduction pulls false air and causes false ignition on the cylinder 1. This has the consequence that the car jerks and does not bring any performance, especially on the mountain to notice or to overtake. Therefore, I want to with all 4 connections d Unfortunately, I have not been able to find a workshop in Munich where I can get help. Who could name a workshop or workshop in the Munich region that could solve my problem? I would be very grateful to you for that.

Hello, I have a Mazda 626 built in 1999, in itself a fine vehicle, but now I have a problem with the warning lamps – namely, these lights shine. In the workshop the brakes were then renewed at the front only blocks, rear windows and coals. The mechanic has checked so far and assured me that the suspension and the brakes are in order mechanically. So I am happy, get in – all lamps off and start the same game already after 10 minutes, Brem warning lamp and ABS are on….. Does anyone have any idea how to tackle the problem without having to spend a lot of money on expensive workshops?

I have the following problem with my Xenon burners… On the left (driver side) the burner of my M6 BJ 03/2004 “below” stops, while the right adjusts quite normally, depending on the loading condition. The problem occurred the first time after the tyre change. Even after several days no change. -^-> Visit to the friendly MH: error memory read out, EVERYTHING i.o.! ECUs are OK! …could hang the engine of the height adjustment, I should drive a bump road, v ichlicht it works, otherwise a new headlight housing… (450€) HAAAALLLOOO? Well, it worked anyway! Holperstraße long ironed and the headlight height adjustment worked again perfectly. …BIS… My car was last for inspection! After that I had the same problem again, only that the trick with the holper track did not work anymore! Did transitional way by screwdriver the light width “adapted”. (but is not permanent condition) I assume that possibly. a sensor for the loading condition is defective. But where does this one sit which one? CAN MIR IRGENTWHERE TIPS BEING OR BETTER WITH FUNDED KNOWLEDGE FAITH?

In the hope that this thread will not be filled with children’s diseases, it will help future buyers buy used cars. In autumn the current series will be 1 year old. Who has already had to visit the workshop unplanned or is not satisfied with the materials after X-Km? PS. In order not to burst the topic, please don’t post any: “Everything is OK with me” posts.